ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Hey all. So...Im hesitant to post this here, because this is probably a better thread for LS1Tech or even HPTuner's forum. But I figured I would check in with some of our talented LS swappers!

I finally started tuning on my car. And..its frustrating haha. To say the least. First some back ground, then a couple questions.

The car was "tuned" for the head/cam LS1 when I got the donor. That PCM ended up being locked, and I ordered a new fresh PCM for my tuner to use. He got the car running ok, but I had injector issues. Now...my injector issues are resolved, but the combo has changed. No more reverse split cam, more cubes, etc.

The car always cold starts great. Fires right up with that signature LS1 explosive start. Hot starts sometimes are ok...but lots of times seem sluggish and the car sort of burbles to life. Annoying, but I can deal. We did a SD tune first, using my wideband output, and had my VE table pretty dialed in. The car keeps wanting to die when coming to a stop, and if Im turning the wheel while stopping, forget it...it dies. So we turned on MAF and played with it. Seemed to be better. A couple days later, its back to trying to stall on me.

Power is ok, not as good as when MAF was off, so there's tweaking needed. Low speed drivability is a little jerky. Deaccel doesnt seem to work at all. When getting off the throttle, the wideband flashes lean like its working, but then goes rich.

These are all issues Ive had before also. Not just things that have cropped up during my last tuning sessions. Like before when I had the old motor. In fact, Im not really seeing a HUGE difference between my combos. Maybe its because my heads arent as good as whats available now. Im also using the TINY F.A.S.T. 90... But man, I really just want it to drive better. I dont care about HP numbers really. Driving feel and reliability are what Im going for.

1) I ordered a 2002 LS1 M6 PCM. When hooked to HP, it shows a friggin 2001 Blazer or something. Will this cause me any issues? Am I missing out on anything here?

2) I dont have a clutch interrupt switch wired at the moment. Nor do I have a brake switch wired into the PCM. Will this cause any issues with returning to idle coming to a stop...or with the De-Accel stuff working?

3) Between the tunes that have been saved, and different people playing with it..is there any merit to flashing to a stock tune for a 2000+ LS1 or something...? And starting over? I realize that would be a lot of work starting from scratch, but I have no idea what was clicked off or messed with that might cause something not to work.

4) I dont own HP Tuners, but my buddy let me hang onto the interface, and is emailing me my most recent tunes for both SD and MAF, as well as a couple of the more recent logs. Anyone willing to take a peak at them? Im going to try to get into it some, and do some logging on my own, as well as reading my brains out on the forums. But figured the more help I can get the better

Thanks! I realize this is a pretty broad/open request since there are tons of factors that play into my issues. So I certainly appreciate anyone entertaining me with feedback!

J.

86White_T/A305

The sad thing about tuning is its not a 1 shot deal to make the car run 90%..muchless being 100% Ive had a tune from Frost when I bought a new ecm and the tune was ok but still needed to be tweaked after a dyno tune and then street tuned twice.There is soo much to calibrate that will make it feel the way you want and still make power. Id refrain from making too many drastic changes in the tune and deal with 1 issue at a time and update tune files as you narrow things down.I had issues with cold starts being pig rich and smelling gas..to sloppy throttle response and gas mileage,had dips in idle coming to a stop and inbetween shifts.

Finish wiring the clutch anticipate switch if you have it...it does make a difference coming to a stop though many just turn it off.My tuner has spent a good amount of time and driving in parking lots ..tuning in traffic on a hot day and wot and each time was a improvement that a dyno or mail order tune cant give you.Just gotta take the time and patience and it will get there..oh and money :S

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Oh yeah... I dont want anyone to think I have the idea that there is a cut and dry solution here haha. Mostly Im looking to absorb any and all knowledge that anyone here has to give! Like about whether the clutch switch makes a difference Im going to dig through my box of parts and find the switch and get it wired up. I want cruise control back anyway....so its been something Ive wanted to do.

The biggest thing that is bugging me right now is the idle dip when coming to a stop. That makes the car no fun to drive. Constantly have to be ready to catch it. And its also embarrassing haha. You roll up to a stop light, down shifting, sounding all bad a--...then *putt putt clunk sputter put putt*. Then me pedaling the gas like Im showing off when really I just don't want to stall and have to crank the car back up again haha.

I found some great write ups on the forums for getting idle dialed in. And I have a stock 2002 Camaro SS tune that Im comparing things with to see whats been turned off/on/fiddled with. Planning to take my time, learn it, and make some small tweaks here and there. Without having to arrange hours with my buddy helping, scheduling a tuner, etc. I can log on the way to work, tinker, flash at lunch and test, tinker, flash and test on the way home. Rinse and repeat.

Ill probably make a few adjustments that I see are needed already, then I might post over on HP Tuners and see what happens haha.

Thanks!

Justin

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I had some of those issues, but after spending 3 hrs with Formato most of them are gone.

I'd offer you my tune to compare, but its on a '99 pcm and I've been told they are quite different. Even Formato told me I should've started with an '02 version....

FWIW, I have a 383/T56

you are welcome to look at it if need be

FWIW x2

I don't have the clutch or brake switch wired to the PCM either.

I know a lot of the stalling is fixable by just messing with the throttle follower settings. Just be prepared that they will be way off from what a stock PCM is set at. I believe mine is like 175% gain or something to that extent.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Hey Jay!

Yeah if you wouldnt mind...Ide take a look at it! The actual fueling tables probably wont help much, but Ide sure like to get a feel for what all was done to get yours situated. jgindin20@hotmail.com

I have a stock Camaro tune to compare to. But...so far its not really much help. I also have quite a few more settings available in my PCM.

The PCM reads as a 2001 Blazer V6 PCM. This bothers me some. But Ive been told it shouldnt matter. There are some extra fields available that arent in the camaro tune. But I think I can ignore them.

Thanks!

Justin

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Email sent!

let me know how it turns out!

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

1) Reflash it to some LS1 tune, the PCM will work, the V6 tune will not

2) No on all counts. The CPP and brake sw circuits are cruise related for manual cars. You really only need to connect them to the cruise module, not the PCM. Auto cars do need the brake sw for TCC

3) If you're totally lost, Id recommend starting over with a stock tune and tweak as needed

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Pocket. The PCM shows as the 01 blazer. However Im fairly confident its set up for the v8. Firstly...the car runs half decent haha. Second, I see all the right settings/tables. My previous tuner (Mike at Rapid Motorsports) didnt have any issues related to the OS. Just everything else haha. I was just worried there were some little differences that would trip me up.

So, Ive compared my latest tune with both another H/C car tune as well as a stock Camaro tune. I think Im not TOO far off base.

I contacted FIC and they're sending me all of the tuning data. I think my offset tables were modified for the SVO 30lb injectors at some point. What I need is basically stock LS1 injector data in there. So they're sending me all the tables I need to get myself to a better spot.

Then the plan is to fiddle with idle a little, and start getting the VE back together since I changed my IFR.

Honestly, if I can get my VE/PE stuff in check, and have the car come back to idle well without stumbling, I might just leave it SD tune. Ill make an attempt at tuning the MAF, but the car felt amazing in SD.

We'll see!

J.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

All of my builds use V6 S10/blazer PCMs. They tune just fine

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Is there anything in those PCM's that you immediately deal with due to it being "extra"?

For instance, in comparing my tune with a stock Camaro SS, there are a handful of adaptive idle - Startup Delay fields that are set to zero and grayed out in the Camaro one. In mine, they're all 1.3 seconds.

I just want to make sure I have the truck PCM setup so its not fighting me.

You telling me that you use S10 truck PCMs REALLY puts my mind at ease on that issue...fyi. Its been bugging me haha.

J.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

The only extra is the having to use credits on a V6 vehicle because it does it by original VIN before I have it wiped and reloaded to something Fbody. All Im interested in is the PCM box, not the original tune loaded on it

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Interesting. Until my friend hooked it up and used credits on it, we were under the impression it was an 2002 Fbody PCM from an M6 car. Since thats what I requested from the vendor. So Im guessing the vendor flashed the Fbody OS onto it... which is why the credits werent an issue.

I would have just used my original PCM...but apparently it was locked.

The extra settings Im seeing probably dont do anything since the car doesnt support it. Here's hoping!

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Try bumping idle send me you log and tune and config

where you have idle set at ?
Also how did you tube ve tables on dyno or on street

Send my email of tune and idle zach07j@gmail.con
I've started tune using hptuner and now tuning obd1


When turning and stumbling at idle it's either fuel or vacuum
Most then locally fuel and idle what are specs on cam
Increasing rpm by 50 might help ?

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Also adjusting the throttle blade helps also

Was throttle blade ever drilled some guys drill first then run when it should be last resort

FIC is pretty good they send excel sheet with tune data just copy paste it over
I had upgraded injectors

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Whats up Zach.

Im not ready to send out my files yet, as I want to do some logging/tuning since changing my IFR. Regardless...FIC did in fact come through and gave me a pretty sweet spreadsheet with ALL of the info. Im going to toss it into my file, and do a test drive. Hopefully their data is accurate and works for me!

As for my idle, I actually bumped my target idle up to 800. It was 725. It idled great at 725. Just tried to stall when coming to a stop. Now...maybe thats too low. But I want to make certain that its not just my other settings. I feel that it is. I havent driven it since the idle bump.

My TB is a Nick Williams 90mm. To my knowledge, there is no hole in the blade. My TPS voltage at 0% is .69v. My IAC counts are kind of low at hot idle. Like..34ish? Im going to actually bump my set screw down a bit and try to get it into the .60-.5x range, reset the TPS, and see what it does.

My course of action is as follows.
- Plug in the FIC data, make sure the car runs.
- Assuming it does, Ill play with my TPS voltage/blade position a tiny bit. More curiosity than anything.
- If all goes well, Ill start logging and tuning my VE.

My research has been exhausting, and so far, Ive gotten to "Tuning VE". haha. So once I start on that, Ill start looking at how to adjust everything else. Play with Timing, retune VE...etc etc.

J.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Yes since it doesn't have no hole may have to adjust for better idle then again it is larger Tb

Do you have you hptuner to log the correct data I have couple setups I can sent to help out if isn't

Need to log your desired idle air flow
Yea ve is is really easy just adding subtracting data pretty much
For timing you can add 2-4* in entire table make sure cooling is good to go engine may run a little hotter if pushing it

To get a good datalog ensure that you ve and timing have no spikes and are smooth and data log with smooth trottle modulation

FIC data is right on I copy pasted and had no issues

Have a lot of gas money saved up lol there will be many more datalogs you love it once you get into tuning I love it it's fun and I can say I tune it myself is pretty cool lol

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

I'll make you research easy lol

Again I can send you some of my saved data configurations if you want to try them out everyone setup is different

http://gmtune.ru/hptuners-tuning-guide
http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachm...5&d=1208828759
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...tricks-373848/
http://redhardsupra.blogspot.com/200...uning.html?m=0
http://www.hptuners.com/help/vcm_edi...dvanced_ve.htm
http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...nd-LTFT-Tuning

You want your IAC counts between 60-70 on a cam car a lot can affect iac like timing etc not just the trottle blade

Take command of timing and adjust it and see where it likes to idle the best and make adjustments from there

And when tuning idle engine needs to be cold so once a day maybe twice is all you can get for datalogs

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Wow thanks Zach! I had seen a few of those links...but a couple I did not. Thanks!

I have a couple practicle questions about HP Tuners that I cant seem to find the answers to.

1) When I copy/paste the chart from FIC into HP Tuners, the figures dont match. I turned the precision all the way up on the table. And when I copy paste, it makes weird rounds. For instance, if I try to paste 1.05456 it will actually paste in 1.05099. It will also make several cells exactly the same, even though none of the cells are the same in the FIC data. Is this just a "the way it is" type of situation? I figure those numbers are pretty dang small to that decimal point, but then I think we're talking milliseconds, so we're already dealing with fine adjustments. Should I not worry and just copy it in and go?

2) Whats the procedure for logging during start up...logging my cold starts? I cant start the log until the engine is running, correct? I think I tried that and it caused the log to stop. Maybe it just hiccuped on me though. I can try it again.

I plan to load the tune with new injector data today, and take the car for a drive. I finally have a working laptop battery, so I can log and flash back to the previous if I get stranded haha. Im hoping to take like a short drive, long enough to get some fuel trims logged, do an initial tweak of the VE table so the car isnt too far off. Then tomorrow Im going to log my entire drive to work, which is a mix of stop and go, and highway cruising. Should be able to get a good bit of data.

J.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

1) once copy and pasted into table there will be slight modification to them for some reason even happens on tunerpro so don't worry about it copy past and leave it be

2) yes you can data log with car not running as long key is in on position and shouldn't have issues when starting with logging when key turned to off positions you will lose connection

Proper way to log idle is from dead cold engine logging desired idle flow till reaching operating temperature for VE I'll let engine idle for a 30sec to min every 100-200 rpm up to 1500ish to get VE LTFt down and adjusted

You do same thing in drive also as you can see there's park and drive tables besides revving the engine

Yea that's what I do to get VE down you need to log for at least 40 mins of driving or so of various conditions being smooth with the part trottle inputs as you tuning your part trottle

I would disable your PE so that it doesn't screw up the VE table best to get wideband when tunning PE because just going up a hill can produce a higher load which looks like WOT ON SCANNEr even tho your part trottle as kpa be in WOT range

I log to and from work use hills to tune upper kpa with out PE


Shoot me a email I can send the exact scanner configuration with all the tables you need and already setup

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

There's a excel spreadsheet you copy paste LTFt into and it does all the calculations it's either on ls1tech or hptuner site

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Sure Ill take a look at the CFG file! jgindin20@hotmail.com

I need to play around in scanner some. Ive been really buckling down learning editor, and I havent paid any attention on setting up PIDs or really getting into the scanner functions. I should have a custom PID set up to log my wideband, as my buddy got that all in when we were doing WOT tuning. I just need to figure out how to access it and get it into my log. Also cant seem to find IAC when Im adding things to my table.

Ill check your cfg out though and see whats what! Thanks!

Justin

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

You need to get hptuner pro as wide band is interrogated into hptuner module if you have standard then you don't have that abilities to log wide band and have to eyeball gauge more less can get it more accurate with logging wideband but cans do with out also just makes it easier

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Yea just playing with it and making changes take drive to see what it does is best way to learn as long you have basic on how everything works and have a understanding of cause and effect

But once you get hang of its its down hill from the learning curve is steep at first if you don't know nothing

I'll send those configs out to you in like hour or so on lunch break I skip eating sometimes to datalog lol

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Another quick question... My current tune has the car listed as a 5.7L with the matching cylinder volume. Obviously the car is now a 6.0L... Should I adjust the volume now, as Im updating my injector data? I know that will reduce my VE table some... Since the table is likely going to be off anyway, is it a good idea to just handle the displacement switch now? Dont see much about that in the write ups... Probably because they deal with modifying the engine not swapping it haha.

J.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Yes update it it plays part in air cylinder calculations

Timing injectors etc will change VE tables some or a lot just depends on engine setup
And each time you make a change you need to just check and adjust that table if there not in line

Also make sure each time you data log out side weather is about the same because your data log adjustments will varie you want to be real consistent

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Ok. Car fired and idled perfect. Took it for an easy drive, things were a little lean. No knock anywhere. Painted the cells as much as I could, then pasted the LTFT into my VE. Havent driven it since then, but going to test that out today. I got some values in the 100-102% range on my VE...closer to 5k RPM. Not sure if thats ok...I know the rule is give the car what it wants, but I dont normally see VE tables with 100's. At least that Ive looked at.

I had one idle stumble about 10 minutes into the drive when coming to a stop. I think im going to have to spend some time with my idle settings when Im through. Follower/Cracker/Timing etc.

This is fun! Probably do one more local log ~20-30 minute drive, then take the car to work. Maybe tomorrow. That'll give me two long drive logs for that day.

I still cant seem to get the scanner figured out. I key on, hit connect on the scanner, but none of the gauges/tables will read until i hit "start log". If I do that before i start the car, as soon as the car starts the log/data flow stops. I have to disconnect, reconnect, then start log again for it to read. Wondering if the 12v pin of my OBDii connector is actually wired to a circuit that loses power during crank. Ill have to check that out...that'd do it.

J.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Sorry I haven't sent configs yet I'll send them today for sure
Didn't get to go to lunch yesterday " military life lol " and had a mandatory fun day lol

Yes it should do that some times there's issue where it doesn't sense and connection but I just close program and reopen

You just copy table straight over did it add and subtract or added across the table ?
What are your narrowband readings above 4k
Really need a wideband to get accurately

Idk your specs but yea usually you don't want to max out but I rely more on narrowband reading above 4k remember there's PE that enables in Wot or heavy load part trottle ie up hills

So that's why I ask what happen when copy pasting did it subtract add etc ?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

No worries on the config!!

When I copied the table, it mostly added. A couple spots where there was a smaller negative number. Table isnt maxed out though. Max is like 519%. Ive read of a couple others hitting 100-110 in some of the cells.

I tried to stay out of PE while doing this little trip. I might bump the enable kpa of PE up a little to help me stay out. But pretty sure i stayed out of it for the most part.

I have my wideband hooked up and figured out the PID/scanner stuff. So Im able to log with it. I read the speed density help file from HPT...and its method is quite a bit different than the other write ups Ive been using. It says to lock into open loop, bypass all fuel trims, use wideband/afr error% etc. Then dial in MAF. Then switch back to closed loop. Someone told me they had trouble doing it that way, and just rely on LTFT and then STFT to dial in the VE. So Im going to stick with that for now.

After I get some good logs, Ill post them up. Anyone that wants to take a peek can.

J.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I'm glad to hear that it is running better

the tune I emailed you is using stock 28 lb LS6 injectors.... but it sounds like you got your injector data sorted out....

I need to start datalogging my drive to work.... but first I need an alignment, which requires me to buy some new tires...... ugh

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

I hate the alignment on my car. I cant ever seem to get it right. It never seems to handle as well as my 87 WS6 did stock...or my 86 even before I did the mods. I wish I could do alignments myself so I could tweak it haha. I dont have the patience to set all that up and fiddle with it though.

Yeah I think my injector data is good now. Got the pulse data, offsets, and flow data from FIC. I think their injectors flow a little more than advertised. I.E. I think their 36lb inj flow more like 37 at 3bar. Im using the IFR table they emailed me now.

J.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Open loop tuning you use wide band which will be more accurate in getting afr lined up some say it's easier some say it's harder

Closed loop use narrowband and easier to do and I never had issues
I've tuned using trims and narrowband and got with in +/- 5
Then hook up wideband and afr where inline

I've tried both I prefer closed loop tunning and using wideband for wot

STFT It's hard to use because it's real time fuel adjustments made by ecm
Where as LTFT is the average more less of the STFT so it's easier to just dial in VE with just LTFT verse chasing your tail with STFT

Yes I completely disabled PE " next time you log check out your VE table going up hill with part trottle you can see it looks similar to WOT conditions even tho your not pedal to the metal got to have a good base to start with to dial VE in
I've seen kpa in 80-100kpa range going up hill part trottle

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Sent configs your way

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Havent seen em yet Zach.

I think I want to try tuning using my Wideband and AFR%Error. Ill make sure I keep a "last known good" tune file just in case. But I want to give it a shot.

Starting to finally wrap my head around how these tables work off each other. Ill still probably need help with some fine tuning here at some point.

One thing Ive been looking at is my spark advance. When comparing to someone else's modified tune, similar to my set up, my table seems quite a bit higher in comparison. Also very choppy. The 3D charge is crazy looking. Wondering if there is any merit to copying his spark tables as a starting point. Or even using a stock 2002 F-Body Timing table..??

Justin

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

VE tables and spark tables need to be smooth
No high or low peaks
Them once smooth you have the foundation for good datalog
get stock spark table add 2-4* in entire table

Also if it is higher they prob added timing to entire table already

Since you got 6.0 you can play with ls2 timing tables also you don't have stick with f body
Again I don't know your specs

But if your running lq9 and 243 heads that's a iron block ls2 just throwing ideas out there so you can think outside the box

The beauty with tuning yourself is you can try anything and everything if you don't like just upload last good tune and try something else
Also on hptuner website there's tunes that people uploaded and you can download and see what they done

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

sent configs your way again sent to gmail instead of Hotmail mybad


hows everything turning out

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Zach! Got the configs. Im curious how to use the info in the idle-airflow one.

Things are going well I think. After a few rounds yesterday, I saw my idle AFR settle to a perfect 14.6, and most of my cruising was the same. PE kicked in once or twice and I saw the commanded 12.5. Im going to venture into the higher RPMs tomorrow. Try some WOT. Im getting ZERO knock so far. Maybe a little .5 or 1 randomly, but never repeats. And it seems to be when Im taking off hard. Right as Im blipping the throttle to take off. So it might be false. Something in my car shifting/banging causing a false knock? Im keeping my eye on it. I figure Ill try WOT, and if I can get my VE on point, Im going to address my spark table. I will likely post my tune at that point.

My spark table is just wacky. Huge jumps, large plateau at the top. Not smooth at all. Im wondering if this table started from my original PCM...which would have been data the previous owner was entering himself. Since my last tuner didnt really dive into spark due to the injectors being messed up, I dont think he even touched it. Debating on trying a stock LS2 timing table bumped a few degrees.

Setup as of now is...
LQ4 with upgraded rod bolts, otherwise stock
MTi Stage II heads (5.3 862 castings. 2.02 valves, 60cc chamber)
Tooley .660" Springs
FAST 90 intake, Nick Williams TB
36lb Injectors
230/234 .609/.612" 113LSA +3
Long Tubes - Pretty decent y-pipe/cat back
T56, 12-bolt w/3.73 gears

I also bumped my idle to 850. This pretty much cured my stalling issues when coming to a stop. At least the car is fun/easy to cruise around in now. Thats higher than I want it to be, but I figure I can play with idle after I get my fueling situated.

And Ill say this...the car has never felt faster than it does right now. I know Im in OL SD, so it might not feel that way when Im finished, but man. It really hauls right now. Probably due to some of the areas that are still slightly lean haha.

J.

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

I would compare your spark table to the ls2, or even an LQ4 and see what the differences are.

I know our setups are similar, but I just have a lot more compression. I am running flat top pistons with a -2cc valve relief, and a stock lq4 piston has a -6.7cc dish with valve relief.... So I bet you can run a lot more spark than you see in my table! LOL

Just remember, that even though you have the fueling sorted out, that changing the spark can change all your fueling!

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Yea I didn't notice difference from maf and sd but I did have larger maf also so I don't know

I would start on spark tables now then work on your ve again
Especially if spark tables varies a lot it will lean or richer some areas

850 idle isn't to bad

There's park and drive idle air flow tables
This is what I was talking about you need to log from cold engine till it warms
You do it both in park in drive both from dead cold engine then copy past into idle airflow table



I agree

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Jay, your cfg file is the one that made me question my spark tables. Yours are smooth as silk compared to mine. Mine are super choppy. No real smooth transitions anywhere. Im starting to think I might use a stock LS2 spark table with 2-4 degrees added all over. Any thoughts on doing this? I just dont know what was done to my tables. I had an old PCM that was supposedly "Locked" when my tuner got it. But, Im assuming he was able to download the cfg. And if he did, those timing tables might very well be the result of the previous owner messing with the tune. My tuner never got to that point, since I had fueling issues on the dyno. I just hate unknowns... Ide rather start with a known table, and modify. Rather than modify a modified...

My maf sensor is also not stock. Im pretty sure its either a truck maf or a Z06 maf. Its 85mm I think. Im still using an external IAT, and have a conversion harness for the maf. My IAT sensor is mounted up stream from the MAF, where its not getting heat soaked. Should be reading the actual air time for whats getting into the engine.

Pat G spec'd my cam. He mentioned the car should have a thumpy idle at 800, and a real mean thumpy lope at 750. I was shooting for 750 as my idle mostly because of that. Car sounded great. It idles fine. Its when Im driving and coming to idle/0mph that i have trouble. As Im rolling to a stop, im at around 1000 rpm, then the second I hit zero, it drops like a rock and starts to stumble/hunt for idle. Rarely stalls. But...annoying as crap. Maybe my combo doesn't like that low of idle....but Im sure going to try to get it there once I have everything else straight.

Tomorrow Im taking the car to to work. Thats a mix of stop and go, highway, and back roads. I will nail WOT a few times, and try to paint the cells above 4k...just to complete my VE table and get it as accurate as I can. Ill research my spark table sitiuation.

One thing I should note... Im borrowing the cable from a friend. So I dont have login info for the hptuners repository. Im saving up for my own HP Tuners suite...but since my buddy couldn't get the car straight after a couple of sundays working on it, he let me borrow the cable and PC. So finding some examples that are close to my setup, not that there are many, is proving tough. Can any of you guys shoot me a stock LS2 cfg so I can look at the spark tables? Maybe 2002+?

J.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Go on hptuner website and log on and regs you can still get on to repros and get stock tunes etc

Yea I ran 85mm also

Just try it out and see if you like it and tweak from there for ls2 spark table

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

Check your email

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Jay!!!

So looking at a stock LS2 timing table, they are quite different. LS2 table has negative numbers, which mine has none of. Does anyone's have negative batches in the 0-1400 and .60-1.20 range?

My table is running a good bit more timing already. 26-27 vs 19 in the upper RPM/Airmass areas. But it looks like a rocky cliff vs a nice ski slope haha.

Going to look into it further.

J.

EDIT: Tuned this morning, did some WOT. First pulls were a tad lean. PE had them falling in the 14.0 range. First round of adjustment had me almost at commanded. Second round...WOT is 12.5 solid through the entire run, pretty much whenever Im WOT. So...thats good right? haha. Im zeroing in on the rest. I think I need to do some interpolation of my table. Some areas im not hitting.

Also, need to figure out what to do during decel. Its trying to add fuel to make decel 14.7. But thats not what i want, right? Decel can be lean a bit? 15.0 or something? Is that something I just have to "know" to reduce, or is there something else that effects that once Im back in closed loop and all.

To be honest...the car feels so amazing right now I hate the idea of even putting it back in closed loop with a MAF haha.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

You won't hit every cell

I recommended using maf as it will help engine adjust to various conditions
You tube in sd as that's what the computer is using as a base maf helps adjust from there depending on many variables and conditions vs having same base tune

So I'll recommend keeping it that's why you tune in sd to have perfect base as if you base is crappy with maf it just amplify that due to variations

$750 L98

If you are still having hot start issues it's likely because the starting airflow may be low. Even stock mine was, here is a good guide for starting/idle tuning:http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...Table-Tweaking

Jaysz28

iTrader: (30)

He is still tuning in speed density.....

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

That looks like an AMAZING read for after Im done playing with VE, timing and get my MAF back online.

Im DEF going to check into it. I breezed through it just now and already have a better understanding of some of that stuff.

Thanks!

One last day of logging today. Then I need to bear down and figure out my timing. And redo VE....and hopefully be closer to a good running car in all conditions haha.

J.

players 91

First I got to say I'm no tuners, just trying to learn how to do a base map for my 91 ls swap. I just converted a sierra ecm to an fbody. When I read it now it shows as a fbody . If yours is still showing as a v 6 blazer maybe there's something wrong . I don't know for sure, just seems odd.

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (4)

What was involved in converting it? And where is it showing that its an F-Body?

The tune shows F platform. But the ID of the PCM still shows 01 Blazer V6.

Im considering picking up another PCM, and giving this one to the guy that loaned me HP Tuners. Reason being, he's planning a swap, and the PCM is already has credits from his HPT on associated to it. Im going to get my own VCM suite, so Ill be burning more credits on the same PCM. So I might snag a new PCM, sell him mine for a few bucks, and just use my credits to get the new PCM going.

But I havent looked into what involved with setting up the OS. It might not be worth my time. The car runs good, so I dont think the PCM being a blazer is causing me any issues. There are some extra tables that I dont think do anything on my car.

I had to give HPT back by the way... ugh. I ran the RUSS K idle airflow config. I think it helped my hot start. My airflow numbers were actually too high, according to the logs. So Im working with OL SD. I have it pretty dialed in I think. As long as the weather doesnt swing too far one way or the other, it should be fine for a while.

I loaded my car up with stuff to sell to fund my own copy of HPT. I have a lot of stuff, and if I can move it, Ill be in good shape. LQ4 intake, Ford Injectors, Clutch master cylinders, Fuel rail, modified steering shafts, etc. Here's hoping!!

J.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Shouldn't affect anything your car is running proof lol

Yea get hpt best investment I've made and prob should of been first thing I've got is my only regret

Takes 2 credits for a pcm to tune it's like 50 a credit can find used hpr on ls1 tech or can buy new with credits already included going used can save a Benjamin or 2

players 91

I don't understand why it seems some people want you to read forums for weeks to get a answer that would take a minute. To convert the ecm I had to download and register a stock 02 fbody file so I could use it as many times as I wanted. Took 2 credits. I then opened it in hpt and applied 3 bar SD os to it. Free. Then I registered the ecm I have. 2 credits. Then just open editor , select the tune you made, and perform a write all. Not write flash. Had to key off after write completed for 30 sec, then key back on. Just watched your youtube video , where yours says blazer at the top of the screen in hpt, mine says 02 fbody. Not sure if it's camaro or firebird now without opening it. My harness is repined as a fbody.