Well, I figured I have enough parts together, better start a build thread, I have a 1988 Firebird Formula that I've had for nearly 10 years.
It was my first car, purchased in May of 2006, when I was 16.
Car holds enough memories that if it could talk, I'd have to shoot it! Lol

Originally had a TBI 305 and 700R4, its gone through many changes, swapped in a junkyard NWC T5 back in 2011 and its currently running with a later model 350, vortec heads, mild cam, 454 TBI.

The 350 is cool, but I'm wanting to modernize the car a bit, and build a nicer driving, faster car all around, so I came across this LM4 with supposedly 80k miles on Craigslist. Admittedly, I didn't even know a LM4 exsisted at the time, only heard of the iron block LM7 and the L33 "HO 5.3". So after a little research, I went out and brought my 5.3 home.

What I have so far is:
5.3 long block, complete intake to funky trailblazer oil pan
LS1 intake, fuel rail & injectors
F-body oil pan
F-body balancer
Dirty Dingo engine mounts
DD accessory brackets
0411 PCM
Racing Innovation long tubes

Still need lots of things like a transmission, harness, front accessories, walbro 255lph pump, misc sensors etc.

I need some help deciding on a camshaft. And I've mostly decided that I want to run a upgraded 4L60E trans unless I find a deal on a good T56. The car is mostly for cruising, driving to work, and drag racing.
Would love some input!
Will get some pics of the progress up soon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bad *** project! Subd.

 

Nice.

 

Thanks!

More pics

 

 

Everything in the engine is looking super clean so far, no sign of metal shavings or anything like that, I might actually believe it only had 80k miles when pulled.



Although I found the rod caps have some yellow paint markings, which is concerning. So I decided I will plastigage the bearings to see where its at. If that looks good, itll go back together.

 

 

Received my harness from pocket! Yes I could have taken a truck harness and modified it to work, but I am looking forward to this being a "plug and play" deal.
It looks great!

 

More parts hoarding going on. I scored this 4L60E with a 2800 stall converter, and good used flex plate and ARP TC bolts for $200 from a LS1tech member.
It will need to be gone through as it fried the 3-4 clutches after only 20k on a rebuild, it was previously in a super cool '66 chevy longbed pickup behind a stock 5.3

 

Just did my harness for my 5.3 swap lol. It wasn't "rocket science" but it's not exactly fun lol. How much did it cost? Harness looks way nicer than mine lol. But I moved my PCM to the pass firewall vs the driver battery area it was stock.

 

Have you decided on a camshaft yet? How about gauges? Do the Dirty Dingo mount move the engine far enough forward to clear your heater box? Also the wiper motor could cause some interference. If the engine mounts move the engine forward you may have to rework the torque arm bracket. Good luck with those headers if you are maintaining the stock suspension it's a tight fit.

 

The harness is definitely not a "budget" piece, but it was on par with "stand alone" harnesses being sold all over the internet and Pocket makes these harnesses plug and play for third gens, mine is even wired for A/C when I install that further down the road, and uses all the stock gauges.

Have not narrowed down a camshaft yet, at minimum I will use an LS6 cam, or something bigger.

The DD mounts are adjustable, they can set the engine forward or back 2", I know someone personally that runs these mounts and headers, He's been very happy with the fitment in his '83 camaro, there are lots of people here on TGO that say the headers fit great too. I guess I will find out once I get there.

 

Sounds good! I used a Z06 camshaft in mine with 799 heads. I think you will find moving the engine forward about an inch and a half will clear the AC/heater housing. I had to modify my torque arm bracket to accommodate my forward engine position. You probably know about tapping the head to use your stock temperature sensor and gauge. The tack will require a speed changer for it to read out correctly. Also I'm sure your headers already have the bung for the front O2 sensors so you should be good. I'll be following your posts with interest.

 

Interesting, what did you have to do to your torque arm? I have a spohn tubular crossmember/torque arm that im going to modify to work if I have to.

 

I used my stock 700R4 transmission. I had to make an extension plate so it would still bolt to the stock location on the tranny and the arm would fit firmly into the rubber mount. Not a big deal just one of 100 things that come up during the swap (as you will see).

 

Im sure unexpected things will come up. Been gathering information for years now, but im sure I will still run into something. lol
Does yours run and drive yet?

 

Runs like a scalded-assed ape! LOL The 5.3 has plenty of power.

 

Nice! is it your daily driver? or weekend car?

 

It's my weekend driver for car club activities. LOL, I drive a Cadillac, I am 67 years old after all!

 

Got my trans rebuilt with some upgraded parts, found out it is actually 4L65E! doesn't make a huge difference in strength over a regular 4L60E but its something.

Added a Transgo shift kit, corvette servo, monster sunshell, Z-pak 3-4 clutch and kevlar 2-4 band. Still need to decide on a shifter, stock 3rd gen, 4th gen, or a ratchet style.

 

Also turns out my torque converter might have a mystery stall speed. The guy that ran it before says it flashed 2800rpm in his truck that it was in.
Took it to get checked out with a local Portland torque converter rebuilder, he cut it open checked it out, couldnt find any hints that it should stall anything more than stock. Since he is able to tweak the fins to get it to stall higher, I decided to do that. If I get the car together and decide I want a higher stall speed, Ill change it for something better.

 

It just dawned on me that I might need a different crossmember. Currently the car has a spohn crossmember/torque arm holding up the T5, itd be really nice to re-use it, but im guessing that the collectors of the LS long tubes will point right into the crossmember.

Is there a crossmember I can get that will clear the long tubes and still have a torque arm mount? I see hawks sells a crossmember without a mount, but I dont really want to use a stock style torque arm that mounts to the side of the trans.

 

https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...ts/71222005HKR

 

That is a sweet @ss bracket. Looks real nice and $300 lol. I noticed it said it only works with hooker engine mounts? And requires an $45 adapter for 2004R trans. I wonder how much clearance it provides.

 

That looks well built, im guessing it uses a stock style torque arm? If it only works with hooker engine mounts, thats a bummer since I bought dirty dingo adjustable mounts.

 

What Holley is saying about only working with their engine mounts is they only guarantee it will all bolt up if you use their engine mounts. People have already gotten it to work with other engine mounts, and there is some adjustability to it.

It will work with any torque arm that mounts like a stock TA. I'm using a tranny-mounted BMR on my car now. If/when I get this crossmember, I'll be reusing it.

 

Did you get the motor in? Im trying to figure out what I need to do to get a stock hood to clear the 5.3. I dont really want to run a LS1 intake but my tape lines are showing 1" above the fender lines at the alternator and intake... ugh.

 

Im still a ways from putting the engine in, but Im planning on running an LS1 intake anyway.

 

sbc out! No going back now! Now im ready to start trimming my chassis harness. Still have a few parts I need. Mainly front accessories and lots of bolts. Fuel pump is on the way. And I ended up with an LS6 cam. Little mild for my taste but I can always change it later. Changing seems to be the ongoing theme with this car anyway.

 

 

installed LS6 valvesprings to match the cam.

 

Getting closer!

 

If anyone is swapping an early aluminum truck 5.3, make sure you have a hole for the dipstick tube!
Mine did not have a hole or a plugged hole, of course I didnt try to test-fit the F body dipstick tube until the engine was in the car. had to pull the engine out to drill this 3/8" hole. The trail blazer that my engine came from used a dipstick that was in the pan, F bodies have the dipstick in the block.

 

Got the walbro 255 in! This is the 3rd time ive pulled the pump in this car, done it in a couple other F bodies as well. Its never fun.

 

Very nice bird! Me likey.

I have the racing innovations headers on my swap and had zero fitment issues when installing them.

 

Looking good!

 

Starting to look like an engine.
I test fitted all my exhaust, and working on fuel lines now, My original plan was to run a corvette filter/regulator in the engine bay with some AN line to the rail, but at the last minute, My buddy convinced me to put the filter/regulator in the stock fuel filter location and run AN line away from my header to take care of heat issues.

 

Thanks! I keep reading that people dont have any issues with the RI header fitment, I guess Im just unlucky, had some issue with the passenger side being very close to the frame rail, and it even pointed up towards the car slightly. I dinged my frame rail a bit on that side, and heated the header to bend the collector down. Seems to fit well now, but needed some help.

 

Not running yet but had to push it out of the shop so someone else could use the lift, first time sitting on the ground since putting the engine and trans in, as suspected the front end sits higher than it did before with the cast block and heads 350.

 

AN fuel lines are all plumbed! Working on AN trans cooler lines now, Decided that was easier than locating stock cooler lines or bending up new ones.

 

With my first 4.8, I had 0 fitment issues with the RI headers. With my second 4.8, I do have contact on the passenger frame rail. It rattles now and again. I'm going to eventually get under there and massage both with a BFH.

 

Strange... Mine fit better the second time, motor went in twice due to the dipstick hole situation, definitely had more clearance the second time.

 

Sorry for the crap picture.
Have the exhaust basically done, No muffler or Cat. wondering if it'll be louder than the 350 was, it had no muffler or cat either. lol
Still need to run wiring through the firewall on the passenger side. Do I need to evacuate the refridgerant in order to remove the AC box? Ive never taken one out before.
After thats done, just need fluids, cooling system, power steering pump, AC bracket and tensioner, PCM tune, then Im basically ready to turn the key.

 

You can probably take the top of the box off and pull the evap out and then remove the rest of the ac box. Might be the easiest way if you aren't cracking the system.