First off, this isn't actually a swap. I recently acquired a 97 formula for a few hundred bucks that had some wiring problems. I've fixed almost all the issues except that the alternator still won't charge. I've read up and understand that the small red wire has to have power for the alternator to charge, and there must be a resistor in line. I do not have power to this wire with the key on.

The first question I have is this-I see there is somethin inline near the plug at the alternator, is this the resistor?

I assumed it was, so I ran a test wire to the small red wire just behind the inline resistor(I assume it's the resistor). I then had power at the alternator plug, but the alternator still wasn't charging.

Is the resistor right there at the plug, or do I i need to look towards the gauge cluster to solve the problem?

I'm not certain this alternator is even good, but I'd like to know my wiring is correct before I buy anything or pull it for testing.

 

The reason you see people talking about a resistor in line is because you are looking at swap projects. The reisitor is put there to mimic the voltage light on the dash of a 4th gen. 3Rd gens didn't have this light on swaps therefore they require a resistor in line. I assume what you are looking at in line is a fusible link not a resistor. If the car had a serious surge like booster cables backwards, that could be toast. It's a pretty simple alternator to take off and put back on, I would test it before I start chasing down any elec gremlins. Also do not put twelve volts straight to the alternator from the battery to trick it, that would fry it, just pull it, test it, and go from there.

 

I haven't seen a voltage light on my cluster. I do however have a check gauges light. Is this the light you're referring to?

 

Yes I believe that's the light for when voltage is low.

 

Ok, the light works but there's still no power to the exciter wire at the alternator. I order a resistor and plan on running my own power source rather than chasing wires.

 

I could be wrong becuase I'm not there testing it, but I think your alternator is the problem. Have you checked the ground and the power wire from the alt to the battery? Quick test would be run booster cables from battery to alternator. Connect battery positive to the power cable stud on alt, and battery neg to body of alt. If that still doesn't improve your situation go test the alternator. Ps you won't have 12v at the exciter wire if I recall even with key on.

 

Exactly. I've been chasing a ghost the entire time. I was using a 12v test light to test for power at the alternator from the exciter wire. I knew it wouldn't be 12 volts but I thought it would be close enough that the test light would still pick it up.

I ended up running my own wire with a resistor I bought from RadioShack and had the same result, 12v on one side of resistor, nothing(test light) on the other. I then broke out my volt meter and it showed 12v on one side, less than 3v on the other.

I've got an alternator on the way. Thanks for the help.