I'm about to redo all my fuel line and I'm wandering what you guys are using? I have read a bunch on this some guys say Aluminum all the way some say use stainless steel and some say use steel. From what I have read the aluminum likes to crack. The stainless doesn't like getting the 4th gen factory fuel quick connects put into it but some say it does great. So it's 6 one way and a half a dozen the other way. Can't seem to find any hard answers on this. Not trying to over complicate something simple but just want it done right from the beginning

 

I've had aluminum line in my '57 for over 10 years, never seen a crack.

I'm just using factory steel in the Camaro. If/when I need to go bigger, I'm planning on aluminum again.

You could also use steel braided. Most don't use it except at the ends due to the higher cost.

 

I used the russel's steel braided line with mine and it has held up really well. Plus it was very easy to run it however you wanted.

 

Hard line as much as you can, especially under the car. Soft line should be limited to small sections that need to be flexible, such as the drop from the engine fuel rail.

When using a GM quick-connect fitting, the O-ring seal needs correct surface finish, tube outer diameter (to create proper compression of the seal), and roundness. Stainless is kind of hard to work with because it is so darn strong. My guess is people working with stainless are getting the tube out of round and that is why it leaks at the GM connections.

Stainless brained line is just reinforced rubber hose with a slip-on outer sleeve made of woven stainless wire. The sleeve does not strengthen the hose, it only protects it from outside contact to other objects. That stainless mesh will leave a bad rash or even cut through anything it touches. I hate the stuff. The hose is good for about 5 years and it is not suitable for long term use on the street where it will be exposed to the natural elements, petroleum products, and salts.

Taking all that into consideration, and having spent a gross amount of money on tools and parts to build out my own fuel system..... just order a stock replacement kit from somewhere. Way less effort to make that work and cheaper on the back side of the project.

 

I was hoping you would chime in. You're the reason I bought a hydraulic flarring tool.
I'm in the middle of doing a LS1 swap allready did the 4th gen dash swap. And I'm using a 4th gen tank so I want to make it as clean as possible. Factory lines wouldn't work as good as custom lines in my case. So you're saying just use the standard steel line? Isn't that what the factory 3rd gen used

 

I hope you don't end up wanting to curse me before this is over.

Ya, I think stock line is steel (not stainless steel). 3/8 inch metal tube packages inside the stock fuel line clips. -6AN hose is the sister size for the flexible runs. Try to limit the quantity of -AN fittings because even the "full flow" type neck down to about 1/4 inch. A fuel system constructed this way will support about 700 Hp naturally aspirated. The stock fuel filter bracket is super flimsy. I found that I needed the hard lines just to support the filter.

I first tried stainless steel and found it a real bear to work with. 3/8 inch stainless is remarkably strong stuff and I didn't have the hand strength to make tweaks by hand. I even broke my bending tool. Stainless also has susceptibility to cracking if you are not careful with the -AN flares. And the tube itself squared out when I rolled it through my tube straightener so it was impossible to use it with a GM quick connect.

Steel or the nickel-copper stuff is a LOT easier to work with. I ended up using the nickel-copper stuff and it worked well for fuel line. Although it seems to me that steel is more forgiving if you need to loosen and re-tighten fittings.

Concerning -AN hose, I used hose with a black nylon sheath because it blends into the shadows and won't rub through anything. After a few more years it will be time to replace the hose and I won't be using it again. I will replace it with plastic line like used on newer cars. Longer service life, larger ID with less restriction, and I can get rid of several -AN fittings that are potential leak points.

 

We use the nickel-copper stuff at the shop. We use it for break line as well. But this stuff is great bends however you want it to and it's super easy to bend vs the steel.
As for the quick disconnects. I'm not familiar with what came on the tank. Iv seen people use the nickel-copper and then use compression fitting to a gm fuel line repair kit. ( I think it comes with the fitting) The kit is made to go into the quick disconnects.
Fyi I wanna say autozone is cheapest for that line as we have o'Reilly's price match them as we deal with o'reilly.

 

I like the sound of.tje copper/nickel stuff. Kinda worried it mite be to soft. But I mite try it

 

Offhand anyone have issue's using 4th gen lines on a 3rd gen. Running a 4th gen tank/Ls1?

 

when you ran you're fuel line did you run it in the factory location? And if so how close are you're headers to them? I read 1 guy saying his were almost touching them

 

I did where it made sense, and did not where it didn't make sense.

I wrapped the the fuel, brake, and clutch hose with a high temp shield (velcro type) on the down leg from engine bay.

 

Could you post a picture of it. If you have the time. I don't have the engine in the car but want to install fuel line before I put the motor in. Just don't want to make a mistake

 

Sorry, I cannot take a meaningful photo from the top side. Too much clutter in the way. (I tried just now... wasn't even worth posting the picture)

Car will go on a lift in mid-April for some chassis welding at which time I could get a good picture from the bottom side.