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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
With the change to the UMI Road Race K member, I need to relocate the FBody AC setup to a high mount AC with a different compressor. Has anyone used the Holley R4 compressor bracket with the LS FBody accessories? Or the Kwik Performance AC bracket with the FBody accessories? If you have, can you post pictures of how it sits in the engine bay? I need to relocate the AC, the catch can, and the heater control valve as part of this move and want to see some builds to get ideas on where everything will end up when I'm done.
I have the Holley setup with the R4 compressor in my car. It sits basically in the stock 3rd gen location, but slightly closer to the outside, and the compressor is rotated a bit so the AC lines are pointed more downwards. I had to use the small overflow and melt it slightly so the lines were not pressing against the side of it
I plan on running the Kwik brackets. I looked at the holley ones and they are are a great choice to help offset the cost of a swap. However, the stock compressor is so ugly I had to get rid of it.
You are perceptive! I bought a Sanden compressor from eBay. It was labeled as 4514 SD5H14 Sanden Style Compressor SD508. Also, I used the Hedman LS engine conversion kit. http://paceperformance.com/i-8185596...smissions.html
Another member was selling a set of new Hedman long tube headers that were made for thirdgen cars with an LS engine. The price was good, so I bought the headers from him. Then I bought the Hedman swap kit, because it was supposed to work well with the headers. So far, I haven't had a problems with that set-up. I think I'm the only thirdgen member that's using it, though.
Finally decided on an AC mounting options. Kwik Performance sells a low mount mini compressor system. This unit clears the UMI Road Race K member and all the other hoses, frame rails, steering linkage, etc in the low mount position. Hoses come off the side and route under the heater lines on the water pump.
Finally decided on an AC mounting options. Kwik Performance sells a low mount mini compressor system. This unit clears the UMI Road Race K member and all the other hoses, frame rails, steering linkage, etc in the low mount position. Hoses come off the side and route under the heater lines on the water pump.
Thank you so much for sharing this. I was just looking in to this set-up but wasn't sure if it would still clear the RR UMI k-member. I hated the thought of running the high mount AC Kwik bracket. What spacing did you get or is it universal to retain the AC dedicated belt?
Thank you so much for sharing this. I was just looking in to this set-up but wasn't sure if it would still clear the RR UMI k-member. I hated the thought of running the high mount AC Kwik bracket. What spacing did you get or is it universal to retain the AC dedicated belt?
It comes with a belt and tensioner. You order the brackets based on the rest of your accessories / crank pulley spacing. I used the FBody option on this one. I also ordered the compressor from them along with the adapter fittings for the compressor. This allowed me to re-use the Hawks hoses I already had.
3 things to know before going this route. 1) It uses a 1 wire AC compressor so you'll have to cut the plug on your harness and put a bullet connector on the power wire to activate the compressor. 2) While I used the Hawks AC lines, they aren't optimal because the hose mounting point has moved about 6 inches forward. At some point, I will bleed off the charge and put on custom built hoses to get a better fit. If you're in a time crunch, their hoses will work. 3) The hoses will be much easier to install without the heater hoses installed. I did it with the heater hoses on and it is difficult to get a wrench on the AC lines to tighten them.
It comes with a belt and tensioner. You order the brackets based on the rest of your accessories / crank pulley spacing. I used the FBody option on this one. I also ordered the compressor from them along with the adapter fittings for the compressor. This allowed me to re-use the Hawks hoses I already had.
3 things to know before going this route. 1) It uses a 1 wire AC compressor so you'll have to cut the plug on your harness and put a bullet connector on the power wire to activate the compressor. 2) While I used the Hawks AC lines, they aren't optimal because the hose mounting point has moved about 6 inches forward. At some point, I will bleed off the charge and put on custom built hoses to get a better fit. If you're in a time crunch, their hoses will work. 3) The hoses will be much easier to install without the heater hoses installed. I did it with the heater hoses on and it is difficult to get a wrench on the AC lines to tighten them.
Good info here. I am running the Vette spacing so I am not sure if this will work for me since they are closer to the engine. Do you know roughly how much space you have between the compressor and your K member? Also, thanks for the heads up on the wiring and hoses. Mine will all be custom but this is good info for anyone reading this.
Good info here. I am running the Vette spacing so I am not sure if this will work for me since they are closer to the engine. Do you know roughly how much space you have between the compressor and your K member? Also, thanks for the heads up on the wiring and hoses. Mine will all be custom but this is good info for anyone reading this.
I can measure actual space this weekend. My motor is as far back as the motor mounts will allow it to go and has about a 1/2 inch of clearance now. With the vette accessories being 3/4 inch further back, this will likely still work if the motor isn't shoved all the way back on the k member. On the next build I'm moving it all foward about a 1/2 inch to allow for installation of the Holley trans cross member. The car originally had a BMR k member in it that pushed everything back. When the UMI piece was swapped in, we didn't reposition anything in order to not have to make a new driveshaft right away.
I can measure actual space this weekend. My motor is as far back as the motor mounts will allow it to go and has about a 1/2 inch of clearance now. With the vette accessories being 3/4 inch further back, this will likely still work if the motor isn't shoved all the way back on the k member. On the next build I'm moving it all foward about a 1/2 inch to allow for installation of the Holley trans cross member. The car originally had a BMR k member in it that pushed everything back. When the UMI piece was swapped in, we didn't reposition anything in order to not have to make a new driveshaft right away.
My goal was to use the Holley engine and trans mounts but it doesn't look like there is a way to easily make the holley brackets mount to the UMI pad. However, the new style LSX UMI mounts seem to have more adjustment built into them. It might be worth the gamble.
My goal was to use the Holley engine and trans mounts but it doesn't look like there is a way to easily make the holley brackets mount to the UMI pad. However, the new style LSX UMI mounts seem to have more adjustment built into them. It might be worth the gamble.
From the recent install of the k member, it looks like I could move the motor another half inch forward with no issue before I start wondering about oil pan to k member clearance. That should give you enough room to mount it with Corvette accessories.
From the recent install of the k member, it looks like I could move the motor another half inch forward with no issue before I start wondering about oil pan to k member clearance. That should give you enough room to mount it with Corvette accessories.
Hey, Shifty, I know you've built a serious engine and just want to make sure you realize the F-body windage tray is not full length because the pan is too shallow up front. Everything in the front crank bay (cylinders 1 & 2) will be exposed. Dimensions of most common oil pans is here,
Hey, Shifty, I know you've built a serious engine and just want to make sure you realize the F-body windage tray is not full length because the pan is too shallow up front. Everything in the front crank bay (cylinders 1 & 2) will be exposed. Dimensions of most common oil pans is here,
Thanks for the heads up. I am running the improved racing windage, crank scraper and sump baffles, but with a stock stroke length. Hopefully, that does the trick. If not, I'll have to explore dry sump. I have used your post extensively when exploring pans.
Holley makes a similar bracket. The stock compressor is inefficient and not suited for the high reving LS motors. However, it can be a cost effective solution and can blend to give it an OEM look
