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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
I am trying to install this pedal mounting bracket but it just doesn't fit right. Seems to hit the steering column so the right two holes don't line up to the existing pedal bolts. Do I have to do some trimming?
Ended up calling Hawks and was told that the bracket can be trimmed as needed to fit over the steering column. There is plenty of metal that can be trimmed. I am getting my moneys worth out of the $99 harbor freight portaband saw!
I plan on trimming it tomorrow. I'll post a pic on what I end up with. I am mounting a 2010-2015 camaro pedal to it but that won't arrive for a few days.
I had cut off this amount but it still would not fit. I found out that the bolt holes on the two tangs were off. Looks like the pedal hole spacing is about 2 1/4" but the adapter holes were about 2". I drilled them out with a 7/16" bit and it fit good. Looks like I didn't have to cut anything after all but too late now. Also, before adding the nuts, see if it sits level across the bottom. Mine seem off a little so a twisted the two bottom tangs a little 1/4-20 bolt and washer in engine bay
Installed Steering column clearance. Looks like no trimming was needed after all
I also tapped the top tang to 1/4-20. Not quite tight threads so 5/16-18 might be better but 1/4 worked for me. Much easier screwing in from the engine bay.
One other change you may want to do. It was a real PIA to bolt in the lower nuts. If you have a big enough drill bit, 5/8" in my case, drill a hole straight back from the two bottom tangs so you can fit a 1/4"drive 10mm deep well socket and extension through the mount to get to the nuts.
If the two tangs in the back are spaced ok, then not much work. I just suggested drilling big holes in the front so it is easier to put a 1/4" drive socket through it but is isn't mandatory. I was able to get the two nuts tightened but it was really hard to do in the cramped location. Since I have a lot of work going on, I took out the drivers seat, console, and rear set for room. Even then, it was cramped.
Very interesting build thread. I noticed you had the same problem as I had with the tangs 1/4” off. Looks like Hawks messed a bunch of them up but it ended up fitting good. What did you do about that metal tray hitting the pedal? Looks like the directional flasher is on it. I used the same pedal.
The bracket and pedal fit, but I was concerned that there wouldn't be enough clearance for the wire harness connection. An installer did the final engine, trans, and harness assembly. It was tight, but he was able to make it work. I'm just glad Hawks provided a solution for the DBW pedal.
The bracket and pedal fit, but I was concerned that there wouldn't be enough clearance for the wire harness connection. An installer did the final engine, trans, and harness assembly. It was tight, but he was able to make it work. I'm just glad Hawks provided a solution for the DBW pedal.
I just installed one of these today. Did you notice that it sits really far forward? I went from a stock pedal to a vette dbw, and even with my seat all the way back, the gas pedal feels uncomfortably close. It sits a good few inches in front of the brake pedal where I have to drive with my need bent on the center console..
Thats what i used too, got pretty close to those specs, except for the height difference.I used part of the original pedal bracket to bolt up to the same spot.Up top i used the old throttle cable exit to secure the top of the bracket.That part and the piece w/ the 3 holes i made.Its welded to the brace the DBW pedal came with.Had to relocate the convenience center though.
Old hush panel still fits with just a bit of trimming/mod.
Cable exit/bolt.