Hawks is the only place that sells a pedal bracket for mounting into our cars. I think it is intended for car pedal (Corvette or CTS-V ?). They used to say but the description lacks that info now. They do have a picture here, https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/82-...t-ls2-ls3-ls7/

Holley EFI uses pedal 10379038 with throttle bodies 12570790 and 12580760. That pedal appears to cross-reference to CTS-V and is the part that GM Performance sells.

 

The Holley EFI System is another option, if any of you guys use the Holley EFI DBW add on to the Dominator System.
Holley uses GM/ Delphi Components for DBW.

Actually, Holley and many other Aftermarket Brands, have frequently used GM/ Delphi Components/ Systems for their needs.
GM and Delphi were once considered the Gold-Standard for this type of stuff.

I have tons of examples where US-Contracts were awarded to GM/ Delphi...
For their engineered Systems and Components, that are used across the board for all Legally drivable Vehicles.
Exterior Light Bulbs for example (From the Early-1990s to the Late-2000s) were a Joint GM/ Delphi and Hella Project.

This resulted in all Cars (Import and Domestic) that are Legal to drive in the US...
Using Exterior Light Bulbs from the GM/ Delphi and Hella Systems

Now-a-days GM sucks, and is not awarded any US-Contracts for anything.
Also GM outsources the majority of the Components on their Vehicles.
I HATE it!

The GM Corporation that I LOVED, is now long dead (Circa 2009)...
The GM Company is now what we are stuck with.

 

Thank you for the Holley EFI Componets... are these the Parts that most Members here, prefer to use?

Note: I forgot to mention that the Two Harnesses used for DBW (Throttle-Body to TAC Mod. and Pedal to TAC Mod.) need to use Shielded Wire, or Shielded Wire Sleeving.
Both together are ideal.
If any of you do not have a Source for Shielded Wire... You can use the Holley EFI (Wide-Band) Oxygen-Sensor Wire.
It is sold in 25Ft or 100Ft Lengths (It is good stuff; I like it. Also available in a 5V Sensor version, in the same 2 Lengths).

 

I think most people here use either P01 (service code 12200411) or E38 PCM. However, the majority of DBW swap engines are taken from trucks, so that's more likely to be P59 or E38 ECM. But pretty much everybody is forced to adapt that to a Corvette or CTS-V pedal because that's what fits in our cars.

Did I help or confuse?

 

QwkTrip,
You could also add the One-Wire Electrical Connector for AD230 and AD244 Alternators.
You may want to add the Delphi #12186566 Connector-Body to you Amazing Presentation.

Delphi #12186566:

 

That is helpful!


I am going to take a deep-dive into some of my Filing-Cabinets, to double check somethings.
Thank you!

 

Quick question:

Are you seeing the Forum Members using the Older Truck Throttle-Bodies, that use an 8-Terminal Electrical Connector (on the Throttle-Body of course)?

 

Done. Thanks.

I just unloaded everything I know about DBW.
Going to have to hope somebody else replies.

 

The LS2/T56 pullout my project got started with came out of a 2006 GTO. The ECM that came with it was an E40. No pedal with the harness. This project got started about 9-10 years ago and at the time info on doing the swap with the E40 was very limited. So I ordered a PP harness that is preconfigured for that engine/TB and uses a 411 ECM and 2003 Corvette pedal. I have to use different knock sensors than the GTO setup came with. I believe I remember reading somewhere that the SSR and Trailblazer of that same era used the same or almost same hardware as the vette. I may be totally wrong on that though.

M

 

So what is it you want to know? Seems you already paid somebody for a solution.

 

That decision to purchase was a hasty one made a decade ago. There was no circuit diagram supplied with it or available. Now years of delays down the road and learning more I am considering using the the compact E40 instead. That will require some reworking of any harness I use as the GTO had shorter wiring as the ECM was in the engine compartment. I want it in the passenger compartment same the current OBD1 unit. I also like to have more than one option to choose from.

M

 

Ho Lee Chit. I looked for this for DAYS. I even asked on the Holley board and no one acknowledged my request. I hate the pull to seat 150 series and when I found this, I wanted to start using them instead, but I couldn't find the dang TPA. THANK YOU!!!

 

LOL!
You are welcome.


You should have asked me about it.

 

I THINK I did? but maybe it got overlooked? Or that might have been before I realized you told me all what you did, and I just forgot. I honestly haven't really touched a harness since like June? It doesn't matter now. If I ever get back to harnesses I'm sure I'll hit you up for some info.

I was looking way back last winter for it when I was redoing Matts Holley Terminator X harness. I still had some of the pull-to-seat connectors and needed to buy more. I probably still need all that. As I said, I haven't touched a harness in a while. I like 3/4 built the harness for my 91 Formula, and it's coiled on the back of the car at the moment. I need clean the engine block AGAIN, since it has been sitting open in the garage while I waited for my motivation, ring compressor and new torque wrench. I really need that car to move under it's own power again at some point.

 

.... you ain't seen yet what I got for ya. The waiting is about to end.

 

Something that I forgot to say after Scooter just Posted...

With the GT-150 Connectors, the TPA is actually an OPTIONAL Component.
With the Tangless-Terminals and the PLR, the Terminals are secured and can NOT pull-out.

The TPAs were produced as an additional security Device (that is unneeded) that is just carried over from older designs.
Older Metri-Pack Connectors do require the TPAs.

 

I am far from an expert. I just do my homework, then do more homework. Reading, more reading. Looking at data sheets and drawings.
I'm just a guy looking to succeed on my own with the resources I can find. Some of it has been trial and error, buying parts and it is the wrong connector or terminal.... it got really quite expensive

 

Thread for electrical connector part numbers is live. That was a lot more work to make happen than I anticipated. I need a break!

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-...lectrical.html

 

@scooter ,

I went back through my Notes...
You asked me about the TPA for the Connector below:


Some how the TPA/ Part Number does not exist in my Digital Records... or even in my ORIGINAL Paper Documents (in my Filing Cabinets).
It is crazy!


I Personally have always use the comparable Connector with the Purple PLR, instead of the Connector in the Image above.
(Since both will fit the same shape Mate).

Did you ever find the TPA or a Part Number?

 

You deserve a break!

Great Job on your New Thread!!!

 

oooooooh yeah. No, I never found it then. It's crazy what your brain will make up, my CRS kills me sometimes

 

It's time to plan my own harness project now. Car ain't broke so I gotta make up things to do. LOL! I'm going to do the things I never did in the past and make something real nice.

 

What diode p/n do you use for AC flyback?

 

I usually purchase a bunch at a time from Eaton-Cooper-Bussmann or LittleFuse.

I will have to look up Part Numbers, but I usually purchase 4 Types all together:
-Through-Hole/ PCB Style.
-SMD.
-Mini-Fuse/ ATM.
-ATC/ ATO.

 

I could not find a LittelFuse Part Number, because the last order I placed was not from LittelFuse.
Lol, it was from Mouser.

Since you are familiar with Mouser, use Part Number:1N4004-T

I have been using these Diodes from: Diodes Incorp. (in the HyperLink below):
LINK

Metri-Pack 150 Sealed Connector:
-Body: 12162017
-TPA: 12124824
-Mating: 15339016
-Mate TPA: 12124824 (Also)

Mate Data-Sheet Hyper-Link:
LINK

 

Thank you, sir.

 

That's how I have been doing the diodes too! Yay, lol

Hopefully the diodes I had purchased were sufficient for the task

 

If you want to DM me with what you're doing LMK if you want help. I might have what you need or want without buying from a retailer. At this point I don't know whether I'll ever make another harness for anyone but myself

 

Thanks for the offer. Unfortunately I have already ordered stuff.

There are 2 parts I haven't been able to find though: The stabilizers for C100 so I can re-assemble with di-electric grease. Anybody know where to find them?

12162412
12162413

They are not coming up in a search at octopart.com either (a search tool that searches multiple other sites).

 

I have not seen any in years...

I would do without them.

 

In your C100 thread you mention the stabilizers provide support to the terminals when using di-electric grease because it's much thinner viscosity than the original black gunk. Not a big deal to have those stabilizers missing?

 

I have not been using them anymore, since they don't seem to exist LOL.

Just be careful mating the to Halves of the Connector Assembly...
You will know if you are forcing things together as a result of an Improper-Mate.

 

Thank you

 

You are most welcome!

 

Oh my gosh, talk about information overload....

https://www.te.com/commerce/Document...=DS&DocLang=EN

All I wanted is some affordable heat shrink to cover splices and solders that I make in the harness

 

Product filters at TE Connectivity website are extremely helpful. Seems it whittles down to Raychem ATUM (adhesive lined) or Versafit V4 (no adhesive)

* Semi-Flexible
* Strain Relief
* Flame Retardent

Seems a lot of people use the DR-25 but that is classified as very flexible, so maybe not the best selection when strain relief is needed.

 

DR-25 is what I am required to sleeve all Wiring into for most Race-Spec Certifications.
It is not intended for Joints/ Branch-Points.

Any of the Double-Wall/ Adhisive-Lined Products should be fine for what you described.

 

Where are you getting good prices on wire? The connectors and such were the cheap stuff. I forgot how expensive is the wire and loom!

One of my friends said Waytek was as good as any for smaller portions like what would be ordered for one job. I have to believe there's a better way than that!

 

I think I just found a way. I've got some phone calls to make tomorrow to see if this will work....

 

I lost my source for Wire (after 9 Years) and need a new source.

I am temporarily purchasing quality Wire (any Color and Tracer) from EFI Connection...
However, they are way too expensive to sustain things for me.

There prices might be okay for the End-User... but not a Retailer.

 

With the Holley shielded cable, is the drain wire in contact with the shield all through the length, or do I need to solder the drain wire to the shield myself after cutting everything to length? I haven't bought any wire yet and curious what to expect if I buy that stuff. If I have to finish the drain wire construction myself then I might just buy my own stuff cheaper.

Honestly, GM doesn't use shielded wire on LS engines. I don't have it today on my speed sensors with my HP EFI. And my buddy doesn't have it either with his HP EFI because he simply re-pinned a GM harness when he swapped ECU's. How necessary is it really?

 

You know anything about where Del City sources their TXL and GXL wire? It's one of the least expensive distributors I have found so far.

I have found a place that sells manufacturing scraps for cheap, which could make a whole harness for a little guy like me. But they don't have any TXL scraps right now, just GXL.

 

I called Del City and learned the wire is made in the USA. TXL wire strands are,

22 AWG -- 7/30
20 AWG -- 7/28
18 AWG -- 16/30
16 AWG -- 19/29
14 AWG -- 19/27

I'm not seeing any red flags that says walk away.... ?
I went ahead and placed an order.

 

I called Holley tech support and they say the drain wire is attached to the shield throughout the cable so I don't need to do anything special with it. Although, I assume with the WBO2 that I do need to pin it into the 8-position connector near the sensor so it continues all the way down to the sensor itself.

 

Sorry I am in a rush at the moment and have to be brief...

Holley uses shielded Cable that is Grounded (to a Shield ONLY Ground location) at the PCM; and Open at the Connector End.
If you do not use the Recorded Data (and ONLY use the PCM to run the Engine) then the Shielded Cable is less important.
What it comes down to, is that the Data is not reliable/ accurate enough without the Shielding.

GM monitored the Data Stream at a 100X slower speed than Holley does...
Making it far less critical with a GM PCM.

I looked at Del City...
Great Color selections and great pricing!
If the Wire is of decent quality, it will solve my Wire Source issues for Non-Tracer Wire.

I will still need to find something for Wires with a Tracer...
Maybe I can figure out who supplies EFI Connection.

 

Allied Wire and Cable is a pretty big distributor and has wire with tracer colors. The link below shows a lot of their supply base. Then if you go look at those manufacturer websites they sometimes list who are their distributors and that allows you to get a list of possible places to buy. Do that exercise a few times and you'll have a solid list of options to explore.

https://www.awcwire.com/customersupport/partner

Here is a list of distributors for Alpha Wire,
https://www.alphawire.com/Find-a-Distributor

 

Thank you very much!


In case you are still researching Products...
Both RayChem and Hellermann-Tyton (from the AWC Website) are Two of the Best Manufacturers for Harnessing and Accessories (I highly recommend both).

For Connector Parts and Supplies, Sumitomo is great!!! (I do not like most of their Products, but QA/ QC and Customer Service are excellent)
(They actually produced all the US Delphi Connector Parts, when Delphi was sold to Aptiv).
Molex is also excellent (They were One of the first Companies to take over GM Connection Systems, when GM stopped using Delphi Parts).

Also you mentioned OctoPart a while back...
DigiPart (NOT DigiKey) will usually show Businesses that will give you Quotes on quantities of Connector Parts that are often not at Mouser.
Mouser can be great when you are in a rush to get a part...
But otherwise they are relatively expensive ( I can not really provide you with a better source; unfortunately as you do not have a Business).

Keep up the Great THREADS!

 

I can now go into more detail regarding the Holley PCM, if you need be.

I basically am in Love with the Dominator PCM.
If you like tons of DATA (I mean Temps, Pressure, and Sensors for everything) it is a Wet Dream!

 

Thank you very much for the Del-City recommendation!

GXL actually was the preferred Wire Type for a very long time.

TXL became favored for its lighter weight and smaller space requirements...
When our wonderful US Government stuck it's Nose into the US Automotive Industry.
Ligter weight, more fuel efficent, more environmentally friendly Vehicles were demanded, and the change to TXL helped this occur.

As Harnesses started having more and more Data Wiring, smaller Gauge, thinner Wall Wire (and corresponding Connectors) became more common place.
And honestly the quality of the Poly-Ethylene Insulation also improved as demand increased.

I still use GXL Wire for Power Distribution (where large Gauge Welding Cable is not needed) if the Project Budget allows for it.
I also use Wire called "TefZel" (chemically similar to PTFE, but with Hydrogen; and being thinner and more durable) for Race-Spec and Mil-Spec Harnessing.

 

I actually had to Pull a Data-Sheet for the CS130/ CS144 Alternator Connectors...

We actually wrote on the Cable-Seal Dimentional-Data, to only use GXL Wire for proper Fitment/ Sealing.
You will notice that a Large boot was included with this Connector, shorty after being release.
This was to help Sealing with use of TXL Wire.