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Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
That is actually the best collection of Images, regarding Mil-Spec (General Aircraft/ Commercial Aircraft) Wiring, and some Motorsports (Rally Spec by the looks) Techniques that I have seen in one place.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
If anyone is interested in that stuff, I am happy to answer questions.
For example, Formula 1, NASCAR, Drag Racing, Etc, do NOT use "Concentric-Twisted" Wiring.
Parallel/ Linear Twisting is performed as it reduces weight, cost, complexity, and can actually be repaired on-site...
As apposed to having to remove an entire Harness-Segment (for minor damage) and replace the entire thing.
Concentric-Twisting would be considered far more reliable in situations where Wiring could be stressed by having to bend the Harness to fit, from significant Vibrations, and other outside stresses.
Filler Wire is often used to construct harnesses in order to complete layers that do not need as many Circuits, or that have unused Contacts.
Commonly in Air-Craft Harnesses, normally unused Filler Wire will actually be used to create Redundant Circuits (in case of one failure).
Have fun!
Last edited by vorteciroc; 06-11-2022 at 06:48 PM.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
TE Connectivity wants a fortune for any of their crimpers and it's not worth it for a hobby guy like me. Finally found an inexpensive Deutsch DT terminal crimper kit from S&G Tool Aid, part number 18700, and bought it for about $190.
Also comes with terminal removal tools and two other crimpers for Metripack sealed and unsealed. Really I just bought it for the Deutsch crimpers.
It has three (3) Deutsch crimpers for terminal size 12, 16, 20. The largest wire it can handle is 12 AWG. The size 12 and 20 are adjustable, but for some dumb reason the size 16 is not. The terminal sticks out just a little bit from the tool, not flush like it should be (but it's close). I took it apart and saw that they designed the terminal guide differently than the other two crimpers and that's why it is not adjustable. I called them up thinking surely it was a mistake but they said it is correct. Very friendly & helpful people, they sent me a free replacement on only my word but it is the same.
So be aware this inexpensive tool kit exists, but it's no Deutsch piece that's for sure. Happy enough at first inspection though for the price.
I call this "inexpensive" relative to Deutsch but it's not inexpensive in the slightest. The wire strippers and crimpers drawer of my tool box is approaching $1K.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
If the extent of your Deutsch Closed-Barrel Crimping, will be the DTP, DT, and DTM Connectors...
The 3 Closed-Barrel Crimpers in the Set that you Posted, are Perfectly fine.
I do not usually hear that people ran into issues.
From what you said, it is the DT Terminal Crimpers that you had an issue with.
The Fancier DMC and TE Crimpers are not needed unless you get into some of the more complex TE Connection Systems...
The most common being the DTHD series and Deutsch Autosport Series.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 06-24-2022 at 04:59 PM.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Looking at the S&G Tool Aid website I also discovered the battery cable crimper I bought many years ago from CE Auto Electric is actually the Tool Aid part number 18840. It has a rotary die set that does a wide range of cable sizes. I've used it and it works okay.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Anybody know the practical limit of how long a Holley EFI harness can be before signal / performance begins to degrade? Wondering if I can mount Dominator ECM in spare tire area. I know Holley sells a 15-foot unterminated harness but that doesn't necessarily mean it's a good idea.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
You can absolutely mount the ECM there.
If you are using the Shielded Wire provided by Holley, you will have no issues.
CMP, CKP, and O2, would be the minimum to have shielded.
I build my Holley EFI Wiring Harnesses from scratch...
Some sections have been up to 30 Ft with no issues, when adhering to the Wiring requirements (or better) that Holley states.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
I am looking at bulkhead connector options to pass harness through firewall. Currently looking at Deutsch HD30 / HDP20 series connectors. I'm a little thrown off by their seal terminology though. They have versions for "normal", "thin", and "extra thin" wire insulation. When I hear the word "extra thin" I'm thinking tefzel wire, but looking at the specs in the catalog it looks like "extra thin" is perfect for TXL wire. Is that right or am I fooling myself?
If so, then that would open up my options to use the 24-47 shell arrangement with the "E modified" blue seal.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Originally Posted by QwkTrip
I am looking at bulkhead connector options to pass harness through firewall. Currently looking at Deutsch HD30 / HDP20 series connectors. I'm a little thrown off by their seal terminology though. They have versions for "normal", "thin", and "extra thin" wire insulation. When I hear the word "extra thin" I'm thinking tefzel wire, but looking at the specs in the catalog it looks like "extra thin" is perfect for TXL wire. Is that right or am I fooling myself?
If so, then that would open up my options to use the 24-47 shell arrangement with the "E modified" blue seal.
I don't really have any personal experience with the Deutsch HD30 / HDP20 series connectors (other than examining samples that TE has sent me, or someone's prior install that I deleted).
However, from what I hear from my contemporaries:
-That's a No for the ETFE Wire; TXL is intended.
-A Yes for a required DMC style Crimper which permits actual Position/ Height Adjustment of the Crimp Location relative to the Terminal being used.
-And a Business: "Maven Speed"/ "Maven Performance Products" seems to be the place to shop for some highly desirable Accessories for the Deutsch HD30 / HDP20 series connectors.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
One of the Uber-Rare Occasions, where I actually will produce a Repair PigTail for a Sealed Wiring-Harness has come to pass...
So I though I would quickly show something that will not be seen very often.
One requirement of these Sealed Wiring-Harnesses, pertains to minimizing the overall exterior dimensions and the corresponding weight/ bulk which can result...
Individual Wire repairs need to be spaced apart to minimize an increase in Overall Diameter...
Further more, even a very good quality, Sealed Heat-Shrink (Molex Adhesive-Lined) Butt-Splice (as shown below) would not be deemed an acceptable repair (due to the Dimensional Increase involved):
The "Whack-A-Doos" (from Tech-Inspection) actually require the use of the Tiny TE Butt-Splice design (along with Raychem SCL Heat-Shrink) shown in the next Image:
Clearly Yes, the smaller Butt-Splice does indeed make for a much smaller overall Diameter Repair.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 06-28-2022 at 10:34 PM.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Originally Posted by QwkTrip
Anybody know the practical limit of how long a Holley EFI harness can be before signal / performance begins to degrade? Wondering if I can mount Dominator ECM in spare tire area. I know Holley sells a 15-foot unterminated harness but that doesn't necessarily mean it's a good idea.
I re-terminated a Terminator harness. The intent was for me to rebuild it with the ECM in the factory location, but once I got into it the Holley harness was JUST about the right length. I only wound up having to replace a few wires in the end and shortened some others. I was surprised in the end. Iadded some other stuff and made a few changes too, like the fuel pump "hotwire" upgrade
I think you could mount the Dominator up in the dash
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Originally Posted by scooter
I think you could mount the Dominator up in the dash
Yes, it's possible, I've held it up behind the dash by hand. Orient it flat like it's on a table with connectors facing passenger kick panel (ECM body lengthwise with car). Elevate straight up behind the dash. It would need a custom bracket that spans between dash rail and firewall.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
I tried mounting the Dominator PCM under the Dash many times.
Depending on how many of the 7 Connectors are being used...
There was not enough room to neatly route all of the Wiring Harnesses.
The HP PCM was able to fit without issues.
Also, Customer brought me some of the "Flying-Lead" Universal Main-Harnesses (NOT the "Unterminated Universal Main-Harness")...
It is long enough, but needs a lot of work.
-5V and Sensor Ground Splicing.
-Modified for LS Cam and Crank Sensor Connections (58X).
-Modified for LS 7-Pin Coil break-out Connectors.
-And somethings else that I am forgetting.
More reasons to just make it from scratch.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 07-06-2022 at 09:35 PM.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Sorry if this was already said. LS Gen IV 58x cam and crank, can I simply run both those together inside the Holley 7 wire shielded cable from ECM and then split into individual 3 wire shielded cable at engine (cam and crank)? I know I can multiply (splice) the ground and +5V ref without issue. More concerned whether multiplying a shield wire mid-run is considered acceptable practice?
This would reduce the bulk in my harness and reduce the pin count at bulkhead by 3 wires.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Ideally the Signal Wire for the Camshaft should be within its own Shield and be separate from the Signal Wire for the Crankshaft within its own Shield.
Could you get away with what you are proposing... Yes of course, you and I are not at NASA working on a Shuttle.
Have fun!
Last edited by vorteciroc; 07-18-2022 at 11:41 PM.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Splicing a Foil wrapped Shield with integrated Drain Wire:
-Leave an extra 6 or more Inches at each end of the Shielded Cable Assembly.
-Remove all extra Wire lengths except for the Drain Wire and 2 Inches or so of Shield Foil at each end.
-Foil must be present to cover any Signal Wire Splice/ Butt Terminal.
-Ensure that none of the Wires have any exposed Conductor, as the Foil and Drain Wire are not protected with Insulation.
-After all Wires are Joined, ensure that the Shield Foil and Drain Wires can be mated while completely covering all Wires.
-Last join the Drain Wires, and apply protective insulation/ heat-shrink.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Has anyone tried to use a Micro-Pack 100 unsealed terminal crimper (12070948) or the 100W crimper (12125080) on those Superseal 1.0 terminals for Holley ECM?
I just tried a bunch of crimps on the Superseal 1.0 with a variety of Metri-Pack 150 crimpers and I'm not liking what I'm seeing. I tried crimps on the 22 AWG terminal and the 16-18 AWG terminal. The 22 AWG terminal always turns in the crimper and only folds one ear over the wire. 18 AWG ends up being loose if you try the 18 AWG crimp die, and the 22 AWG dies pancakes the terminal too much. Got to find something better without spending bookoo bucks on the MSD tool that nobody likes anyway.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Actually I just had an idea....
vorteciroc, guessing you own that crimper, and you have terminals.... what's the odds of running an experiment for me on 22, 20, 18 AWG before I plunk down $180 on a tool? Pretty please with a cherry on top? I can even send you terminals in the mail if you want.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Maybe it doesn't matter what tool can crimp a Superseal 1.0 terminal after all. Comparing dimensions, it appears the female Micro-Pack 100W terminal would successfully interchange with the Superseal 1.0. Both use 1.0 mm diameter male terminal pins. And all the critical dimensions seem close enough.
Micro-Pack 100W are slightly less expensive, but more importantly they are more readily available and the crimping tool is hundreds of dollars less. I'm not seeing the need to buy the Superseal 1.0 terminals for a harness build. What do you guys think?
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
No need to send me anything...
LOL, I have more Terminals than I know what to do with.
Thank you though!
The TYCO/ AMP (TE) Super-Seal 1.0 Terminals are as much of a CLONE of the Delphi Micro-Pack 100W Terminals, that TE could legally get away with.
TE tried to get away with a 100% Clone, but was shutdown by the Patent that Delphi held.
So Yes you can use the Delphi Micro-Pack 100W Crimper for your TE Super-Seal 1.0 Terminals...
HOWEVER!
You will have to take some time to practice CRIMPING... as the Terminals are Not identical.
Just take your time and you will make it work.
I actually don't use either of the Micro-Pack 100W Terminals,or Super-Seal 1.0 Terminals anymore.
Aftermarket Super-Seal 1.0 Terminals with a "Closed-Barrel" crimp-section (like Deutsch DT Terminals) are now available...
I very much prefer them.
Unfortunately they are expensive, and require an expensive dedicated Crimper.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 08-01-2022 at 08:30 PM.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Originally Posted by QwkTrip
Maybe it doesn't matter what tool can crimp a Superseal 1.0 terminal after all. Comparing dimensions, it appears the female Micro-Pack 100W terminal would successfully interchange with the Superseal 1.0. Both use 1.0 mm diameter male terminal pins. And all the critical dimensions seem close enough.
Micro-Pack 100W are slightly less expensive, but more importantly they are more readily available and the crimping tool is hundreds of dollars less. I'm not seeing the need to buy the Superseal 1.0 terminals for a harness build. What do you guys think?
I realized the terminals were so close after I got the AMP ones in hand. I put the Metripak connectors in the TE connector with success. I am not going to buy the TE terminals again
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Got the Micro-Pack 100W crimper and tried it on a Superseal 1.0 terminal. Shape of crimp is beautiful but it doesn't crimp tight enough and 22 AWG wire pulls out. The Mic/P 100W terminals are on backorder at Mouser so I'll have to wait to see how those fit in the Superseal 1.0 connector.
Originally Posted by scooter
I realized the terminals were so close after I got the AMP ones in hand. I put the Metripak connectors in the TE connector with success. I am not going to buy the TE terminals again
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Damn...
The Delphi Crimper that I used for Micro-Pack 100W is no longer produced by Delphi.
Sargent offers it though...
Model #3191 (uses Delphi Crimp Positions: "H", "J", and "K".
The Delphi 12125080 is fine, but as you found out, it Only has the 1 Crimp Position...
and the smaller Wire sizes require the Conductor be Doubled-Up, for a secure Crimp.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
I did a swap-a-roo of part numbers on ya.
Delphi 12070948 has 3 crimps and looks an awful lot like the Sargent 3191. Delphi lists theirs for use with unsealed Mic/P 100, whereas Sargent lists theirs for Mic/P 100, 100W, and GT630. Is the Sargent really any different?
Reason I ask is because I bought the 12125080 (one crimp for Mic/P 100W) from Mouser and I might be able to call them and exchange for Delphi 12070948 (3 crimp for Mic/P 100), but Mouser does not carry the Sargent 3191 (3 crimp) so I can't swing a deal to exchange for that.
Waytek hides the identity of this tool. Turns out this tool is a pressmaster EMBLA RA. I gotta say it's pretty dang cool. And the stripper cartridge pulls out by hand and can be swapped for other styles if you want. I'll have to use it more but it's exactly what I was wanting if it keeps working well.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Quick question on the subject of crimpers.
I've this generic model for open barrel crimps and am wondering if it bears any similarity to the higher end versions that you gentlemen use.
I have several crimp tools I use on a daily basis as part of my trade but this one is an outlier.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Originally Posted by vorteciroc
The Delphi 12125080 is fine, but as you found out, it Only has the 1 Crimp Position...
and the smaller Wire sizes require the Conductor be Doubled-Up, for a secure Crimp.
Wow, you will not believe what happened. I bought the other tool from Mouser and they gave me the first one free (refunded me and told me to keep it). I was so shocked at their generosity that the lady joked, "Do we need to give you a moment to recover?"
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
LOL!
Actually I have run into similar situations.
The logistics (for Mouser) of returning Items and having to Sort them back into a Cataloged/ Organized-Contained Location...
Seems to be a major ordeal (for Mouser) at times, not worth the "Seller Cost" to ReEnter their Parts-Systems.
...to the Benefit of the receiving Customer; from time to time.
(LOL! I just use Mouser soo much, to have had this experience multiple times LOL).
Last edited by vorteciroc; 08-05-2022 at 06:25 PM.
* ES2000 for splices. I see some shops use SCL but that's not flame retardant.
* RNF-100 to cover exposed conductors (ring terminal crimps).
* RT-375 to cover wire labels.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
Originally Posted by QwkTrip
Waytek hides the identity of this tool. Turns out this tool is a pressmaster EMBLA RA. I gotta say it's pretty dang cool. And the stripper cartridge pulls out by hand and can be swapped for other styles if you want. I'll have to use it more but it's exactly what I was wanting if it keeps working well.
Thanks for the tip, scooter!
I figured they just re-labeled a crimper. I tried removing the label after I received it it, but either the adhesive was too good, or they remove the old label
That cool you figured it out. I am curious to see if there is any mark up. I bet it's a good proce though, I have compared a lot of Wayteks prices to Mouser and other places and they are quite low
* ES2000 for splices. I see some shops use SCL but that's not flame retardant.
* RNF-100 to cover exposed conductors (ring terminal crimps).
* RT-375 to cover wire labels.
Re: Part numbers of common electrical connectors with LS engine swaps
I took a look at that Wire-Stripper that you Guys posted.
I have Not used that type of Design in a very long time...
How do you like it?
I usually tell people looking for a decent Multi-Purpose Wire-Stripper, to find the IDEAL Model #45-092 StripMaster for around $30 to $40 on Sale.
Great Tool!
They also have nice Tools for ETFE Wire... but are very expensive!
Last edited by vorteciroc; 08-07-2022 at 06:52 PM.
TE/ Raychem DR-25 Heat-Shrink Sleeving and Heat-Shrink Boots are primarily what I use.
I also use a TON of NonHeat-Shrink Boots from Bosch.
I normally use SCL for Heat-Shrink Tubing (Not to be confused with the DR-25 Heat-Shrink Sleeving)...
I often use Black TechFlex Flexo PET Clean-Cut Sleeving (Not Split, expandable) over DR-25, or just Black TechFlex Sleeving alone, for certain situations.
SCL Heat-Shrink Tubing is used here.
I use SCT (Flame Ret) for Heat-Shrink Tubing with Black TechFlex FireFlex Aero (Flame Ret) Sleeving (over DR-25).
I use a very small amount of ATUM Heat-Shrink Tubing where High-Ratio Shrinking is required.
I also use a small amount of TechFlex InsulTherm Tru-Fit Sleeving for Very High Temps.
I use RT-375 for Translucent Heat-Shrink Tubing.
Last edited by vorteciroc; 08-14-2022 at 07:53 PM.
05-24-2022, 10:47 PM
I can even send you terminals in the mail if you want. 
