My first project, no "real" experience to speak of but I am diving in head or fuel system first. Picked up an 89 in Dec 11, car had not run since 05. not been driven daily since 2000. Would not crank. I am guessing fuel pump and sending unit. I have pulled the rear wheels, rear axle and fuel tank out. I am getting an electrical signal from the relay, no signal through the sending unit. I think a new fuel pump and sending unit. I am also replacing all of the bushings, rear struts and brakes/calipers/lines and such. Will post pics of the ten year rust on the rotors. I hope this don't take 5 years.

 

Replacing all of the bushings, any suggestions on kits?

 

10 years of rust

 

Ordered New Fuel Sender, Fuel Pump, Rear Struts, Calipers, Rotors, Pads, Brake Lines and Bushing set.

 

Energy Suspension makes a complete poly kit for these cars, but for the rear you could look at the founders performance LCA/ panhard bar kit. Its dirt cheap, stronger than stock, has poly bushings and comes powdercoated red or black.

 

I ordered the energy suspension kit from summit, I just hope it is all encompassing.

 

Started on the wheels, using the tech article. fingers crossed that I dont screw them up.

 

I went with Founders and the rest is Energy & Hotchkis

 

Thanks for the reply! I just got the Energy kit in the mail. Still waiting on a few parts to come in. The undercarriage is immaculate! Nice job.

 

Hey, Jimmy, Mine took 5 years. But it was totally worth it! If you need inspiration check out my car on the body forum. When you get her done there is a feeling of accomplishment that is not easy to describe. People with cars worth 10 times as much will pause to look at your car, and every fart can import will immediatly start acting like an *** and beat their cars when in her presence! Good Luck!

 

Thanks Eagle, It is going pretty good so far. I will wait to do the body and paint when I get home next year. The suspension is taking a while because I am finding stuff that needs to be replaced as I tear down. Cost a little more than I initially expected but I feel it is worth the time and money. Not going for show quality underneath just solid and dependable.

 

Amen to that, I did the same thing under mine, solid and changed out all the parts as I went, good luck

 

Is the red bar above the panhard bar just a stock part painted red?

 

Hey drop, did you re-paint your under carriage parts or are they powder coated?

 

Stock track bar (powder coated) the rest is Founders and the springs are Hotchkis

 

Front suspension done. Waiting on parts to arrive. Autopartswarehouse is slow to ship.

 

What did you go with in the front? post some pics of the work

 

Front - New ball joints, Energy poly bushings, new tie rods, new struts. Waiting on rotors, Calipers, Pads. Rear - Rotors, energy poly bushings, struts. Waiting on calipers, pads. Overall - Waiting on fuel sending unit, Pump, brake lines, flowmaster cat back exhaust and tires. Will post pics soon.

 

Yep, Same route I took with mine, solid and reliable. I wanted a good driver car. My suspension is all poly and I just put on J&M poly ball rear arms. Poly really makes it ride with a solid feel. Good luck Brother, I hate waiting for parts too!

 

I bought a set of Russell Braided brake lines for the car, just ordered a new master cylinder also

 

Christmas time in April!! I have been in Yuma AZ since Tuesday, just got home and so many parts have arrived! Still short a few parts but at least I can start work again. I have had no luck getting the OEM fuel sending unit. I guess I will have to get the Spectra. I should have some pics tomorrow.

 

I am cancelling the rest of the items I ordered from Auto Parts Warehouse. I ordered every item on 18 April. I have received on three of the 10 things I ordered. No E-Mail stating out of stock or what not. I have great success with Summit! I will use them in the future. Also US Auto parts was not very helpfull. I ordered a fuel sending unit with overnight delivery on thursday. Was told it would arrive on monday due to fedex not shipping on weekends, finally got an e-mail sating out of stock on wednesday. Frustrating. I am using oreilly and autozone for the small stuff.

 

I hear ya on that, I use a local spped shop here for most of my stuff, I just picked up a Mr Gasket dip stick and a set of ARP flex plate bolts. I use Summit when they either don't have or their price is just to high for the same product.

 

rockauto.com is by far the best internet parts place

 

She runs!!! I will have pics eventually. still need a new master cylinder and I am waiting on exhaust. small victories!

 

Now she wont start. attempted to start and on the third key turn I got nothing. No hit to the starter. Replaced the starter. Nothing. Narrowed it down to the purple wire on the solenoid. I jumped from the solenoid to the battery and I get the spark, now it still wont start. The fuel is getting to the fuel rail, but it wont fire over. Any suggestions?

 

So she is cranking but wont fire? I would check the in-line fuse on the apron just back from the battery its in a small black fuse holder. It will be bolted to the rail below the fender with a ground right next to it, open the case check the fuse, they blow when you check starter wireing some times.

 

Thanks for the tip, I will give that a look.

 

Is she cranking? or just dead

 

She was cranking, now when I turn the key to crank I get nothing. I Did hot wire from the solenoid to the battery and it will turn over, just wont start.

 

Sounds like a bad ground, sorry I thought it cranked but wouldnt start

 

Who makes the tubular K Member you are using?

 

AJE Racing

 

Security light. WTF. I need to do some research.

 

Might be the VATS, you can bypass that to check

 

What is the procedure to bypass? I think it is the case also but I want to test to make sure. I also found a bypass kit on rick's camaros, anyone know if it is worth it?

 

watch this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKfn7J9CeZM

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/vats

 

Awesome. Is this a permanent work around?

 

I just went to radio shack and bought a potentiometer and using two of the leads with my tester adjusted the little screw until it read .68 (my keys resistance) . Just put it between the to VATs wires and your done.
I just asked the guy for one that would match that resistance.It cost me all of $4.00 ,I don't know exactly the one but it looks like this.
= http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062308
I did it and it has worked perfectly.

 

I bypassed it with some resistors. I matched the keys resistance and it started right up.

 

Cool, glad to hear it

 

Thanks. I still have some interior work, paint and body but she is done mechanically.

 

I will drive it home this week.

 

I just put my motor in on Friday, I actually hope to drive mine (at least test drive it) in the next two weeks

 

Any ideas how to fix he hatch pull down system?