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Pulling the 350 to get rebuilt, it has a lot of blow by right now.
I'm about halfway to getting it out but the weather is not cooperating, 900 mph winds and sideways torrential rain is slowing me down because I have to have the garage door open and it rains inside of the garage.
Glad your keeping her on the road! That should be a fun motor after the rebuild. I recently had to get my engine rebuilt. I can relate to the fouled spark plugs lol.
Got the engine out today, I had to put the hoist on the side of the car since it couldn't reach from the front, stupid long front end. It came out pretty easy but now I have to wait 2-3 weeks while it gets rebuilt.
I'll be cleaning up the engine bay in the meantime.
I picked up some parts today, steering wheel, horn, lighter, complete jack and spare tire all for $75. A guy is parting out an 85 Z28 about 10 miles from my house and I just happened to stumble across it on craigslist. Someone peeled all of the vinyl wrapping off of the wheel in my car and the horn button is broken too, my car was also missing the spare tire and jack. Also picked up some red aluminum to cover the holes in the firewall for $10.
I painted my headers with some high heat Rustoleum I had left over from another project, hopefully it will hold up for a little while. I've used it on motorcycle pipes and it looked good even after a year. I just didn't feel like paying for or messing with the VHT ceramic stuff.
I replaced the motor mounts today, took about 2.5 hours and was a lot easier than what I had read about it in forums and I did it by myself. I stuck an open end wrench through the hole in the frame near the spring to remove the top nuts then stuck a socket through the bottom next to the A arm to remove the bottom nut. To reinstall I put grease on the nut and stuck the washer to it then put the nut in the open end of the wrench and stuck it through the hole in the frame near the spring and threaded it on by turning the bolt by hand. I did lose one of the big washers in the frame when I was removing it and after 10 minutes with a magnet gave up and just put a different washer on. Doing it this way is the easiest way I could think of, some said to use swivels and sockets on all of the nuts but that's almost impossible.
Cleaned up under the hood a little more and had to replace the alternator, Napa rebuild failed after one year but luckily they have 3 year replacement warranty. Also got my torque convertor lockup wired up to a toggle switch.
I'll get a video when I get the front brakes fixed, I just did rotors, pads, bearings, struts, and now my drivers side front caliper is sticking so I'm going to replace the lines and calipers. I'm starting to get sick of working on it.
Some half throttle acceleration, I'll get a real acceleration video when I get my governor changed. It still shifts at the stock points and I can't manually shift and film at the same time, motor has a 6,200 rpm redline now and the stock governor shifting is killing me.
Some of the old junk parts I removed, the struts had no rebound or compression. I got the new rotors, pads, wheel bearings, and struts on and a few miles into the test drive the drivers side front brake decides to stick, luckily it broke free after about two miles but I still overheated the new brakes pretty good. The flex hose collapsed internally so I replaced it and put a new caliper on too because the bleed screw was seized, working on rusty 30 year old brakes sucks and new parts are cheap enough it's easier just to replace them. Only real problem I had was getting the flex hose undone from the hard line, I used a line wrench and the nut still rounded off so it is now vice grip size.
My $20 sub box built from some used plywood and held together with sheetrock screws and caulk which I already had, the only expense was $12 for carpet and $8 for a can of spray adhesive. I bought a sub package from Ebay for $199 and took the subs out of the box they came in and put that box in my other car.
I built this box so the top is flush with the floor and ended up with just enough gap in the front that I could tuck the wires out of sight and I can still open my storage compartment. I know people who are really into audio could hate on my use of plywood but it was free and I figured since my subs are only 300-400 watts rms and the box is wedged in pretty tight it really can't flex and I don't want ear piercing bass anyway, I just like a balanced system. I have some cheaper Pioneer 6x9's in the rear, unknown dash speakers, and a 10 year old JVC deck and this system actually sounds pretty amazing for what it is and it's really loud without being too bass heavy which is what I was going for.
05-17-2015, 08:01 PM
