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I recently took a look at this 1985 iroc z,
It has upgraded headers, stock components are included. Runs and drives, will need new front tires, doesn't have A/C or radio, has a replacement rear windshield that is synthetic, one headlight needs to be aligned, interior is pretty clean but needs some work. Was coated in primer and is ready to be painted, it does run and drive and the t-tops work. Is this worth $2300? Or should i ask for a lower price? What do i need to look out for on third gens? Any advice is appreciated, thank you!
The car may be a good base, but does need a lot of work including paint. Can you do what it needs yourself or justify paying others to do it? Making a detailed list and putting dollar and/or time estimates to each, for me at least, is a better assessment of "is a fair price" because it decides what is valuable to me beyond pure market conditions. But only you can answer that angle for you.
One thing about "ready to paint" - when it's primered you can't tell what was done, or rather what was not done well. A reputable shop may want to sand it down and see what's there and suggest additional repairs. Unless it is well photo documented before/during the work, there is a bit of an unknown here, caution recommended. In my area, labour and environmental regulations make body/paint work expensive and I often advise people that mint body/paint with a missing drive line is a better deal than the other way around. Again, if you possess the skills and patience to DIY you could be ok.
The car may be a good base, but does need a lot of work including paint. Can you do what it needs yourself or justify paying others to do it? Making a detailed list and putting dollar and/or time estimates to each, for me at least, is a better assessment of "is a fair price" because it decides what is valuable to me beyond pure market conditions. But only you can answer that angle for you.
One thing about "ready to paint" - when it's primered you can't tell what was done, or rather what was not done well. A reputable shop may want to sand it down and see what's there and suggest additional repairs. Unless it is well photo documented before/during the work, there is a bit of an unknown here, caution recommended. In my area, labour and environmental regulations make body/paint work expensive and I often advise people that mint body/paint with a missing drive line is a better deal than the other way around. Again, if you possess the skills and patience to DIY you could be ok.
Good luck with whatever you choose.
Right on Bow_Tied
any good paint guys I know will not paint a car prepped by someone they don’t know.. prepping and sanding is so important. The paint job will look shoddy if the prep is sloppy.
I’m not that psyched about the body panel alignment from the blurry pictures either..
For a little more money you could find a higher mile driver in better shape with everything there and spend less money in the long run getting it where you want it. I saw a 160k mile car recently that was straight with good interior and just needed a refresh.. Motor was still running good. Guy paid $5500. All original paint and only a few small dings..
A painter could easily use the original paint sanded down, fill the dings, and lay down a nice paint job to that guy’s car..
drive it a while and save up for an engine rebuild at some point..
DIY even better..
Start with the most complete car you can get and you won’t regret it!
I second that having a straight car is better than a questionable car with a built motor for a lot of reasons.
I wouldn’t invest money in a car that’s not straight and rust free..
Depends on what primer was used. You’re not really suppose to leave a vehicle out with just primer on it. From what I understand it’s ok if it’s epoxy but other primers absorb moisture.
