I have a deposit on this 89 iroc z second owner car had it 30 years .. the vehicle has some issues that need attention. Please tell me if the car is worth 7500$




This one scares me .. front passenger

 

It's not.


Get your deposit back and run away.

 

I agree. It doesn't look bad on the outside, other than the headlight buckets are supposed to be black, but there is a ton of rust underneath that car. Not just surface rust, but rot. There are better cars out there for the money.

 

Run away, too much rust underneath for that $$$ and did you see the drain holes in the hatch floor? That car is no stranger to water.

 

Never trust a car with painted door handles

 

Too much rust for that price...

 

Lots of good advice in above posts.

 

That car will need alot of attention. You can find nicer ones for less. Hopefully your deposit is refundable.

 

No Way

 

Road salt is bad.... mmmmkay ?

 

i wouldnt pay 7500.00 for that car

 

Agreed, don't buy it. Those are all of the typical spots that rust/rot shows up on these cars. The problem is that is what you can see, but what you can't see that is behind the fenders, ground effects, cowl, wheel well undercoating, etc. will be much worse.

 

x

 

Erik, I think you got caught up in the "similar topics" option at the bottom of the thread. You posted your response in the wrecked TTA thread. In your user settings, you can turn off the suggested threads or similar threads option that just pops up at the bottom of another thread.

Ok. Not sure what happened, but Erik's post was added to an old post regarding the wrecked TTAs. I responded to that post, now I see his and mine are over here. I'm either losing my mind, or an admin moved the posts.

 

Don’t know where you are in NY but this seems like maybe a decent car, with the money you would save in purchase price could easily get this going.

https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/i...Anull%7D%22%7D

 

Wonder why they dropped the tank ?? Looks like it might be a 5.7,..............It's got a 9-bolt rear end. This car will never be a show car and will never be worth 'top dollar'; But - IMO - his $7500 price is not nearly as far off as the previous posts seem to describe. The full car paint job alone probably cost $3K; but some think the car is worth $3500-4K ?? ( Maybe BEFORE the new paint.)

While I'm sure this is a bit harsh, the term 'lip-stick on a pig'' comes to mind. I'm guessing someone spent a few grand to top-coat his weather-beaten car with new paint in an attempt to reach a higher selling price. Both rear ground FX appear to show wet-sanding residue so I'm betting the new fresh paint looks great in person.

IMO he would have been better off spending that $$ on the under-body rust/rot and leaving the old paint for the new owner. Then again; after putting 3K in metal work under the car and asking 7K for a car that NEEDS paint would probably garner the same kind of replies that putting fresh paint on first got him !


NADA 'book value' for an 89 IROC:
https://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/1989...t-Coupe/Values

His price is in-line from a technical stand point,... but in the real world; it's a high price for the seller to start haggling from. You can & will find better (solid) cars if you take your time and search for the 'right' car. https://www.searchcraigslist.org/

 

Thanks for the input guys ... the story is the car was painted and undercoated and was stored on a driveway with a cover on it for 5 years cloth cover blacktop driveway .. put the car in his garage and for 15 years .. took it to a shop for a new gas tank and sending unit .. the car fires right up and sounds great ... what is the right price for something like this .. I am not looking for a show car by any means I would correct the buckets door handles and pin stripes .. looking to cruise around town with my kids with it ..

 

Based on the rust visible on the bottom, I would be concerned with how long the car would last before requiring major work. I would say that there isn't a right price, as I would never be a buyer. However, if you're still interested, then you can take the info from here and offer a price that YOU think is fair.

 

Maybe $3K.

 

I agree. Here is a $4,200 that is WAAAYYY more solid.

https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/c...160344576.html

It needs paint, but I'd MUCH rather buy a solid car that needs paint, rather than a rotted out car with fresh paint. At least you can see that there is no rust on the body since it appears to be original paint. Who knows what that flashy new red paint job is covering up on the other one. Judging by the underside pics...id say it had it's share of body rust covered up. I've always said that if I'm going to overpay for something....it better be damn nice. I will never overpay for anything rotted out. The red car, is unfortunately rotted out, and is way overpriced. Keep looking.

FWIW, about 2 weeks ago I bought a CHERRY, 1989 Camaro RS convertible with only 28k actual miles. It's a 305, automatic, and original paint. The car is about as clean as the day it left the factory. I paid $6,500.





The underside of this car has ZERO rust. See, there are way better cars out there for the money. Just be patient.

 

Corrected ! ( and Congratulations ! )

 

I bought the car... I brought it to my mechanic he said the car is solid except for those two spots .. they were from someone using the wrong lift crushing the rail.. and then the heat from exhaust rotted the one side out .. easy repair .. the car has a rebuilt original motor .. new gas tank sending unit radiator ... brakes ... I drive it 20 miles round trip ran great .. The repaint is Excellent besides the door handles and lock being covered ... I will post picture and ask questions as I bring the car back to stock appearance ,

 

Congrats! We'll be here to help.

 

Congrats 89rocman ! I hope you got it at a price you were comfortable with and I hope your able to address the under-body before the winter arrives. As always; the SOONER the BETTER when dealing with any type of rust. You've got a few months of summertime fun ahead,.......... so enjoy the ride !

 

Congrats on the new ride! It sounds like it's in good hands!

There is a TON of information here, and a ton of people with exceptional knowledge of these cars who will be more than willing to assist you in any way!

Keep us updated on your progress with it and enjoy it

 

I am looking into General summer sport tires and Koni yellow suspension .. the car will be getting an ls t56 swap at some point .. do I need frame connectors ? What do you guys think ?

 

It’s one of the best mods you can do to these cars, especially T top models. It will make the car stiffer and help with body flex and you get excellent jack points just to name a few of the benefits. Also weld them in if possible instead of bolt on.

 

What are a good weld on brand?

 

I have UMI and I like them a lot, they are even red as well which matches my car nicely. Another good one like mine that are “outers” are BMI or maybe Hotchkiss. If you want “inner” look at Spohn or Alston. I’ve also heard of guys running both inner and outer SFCs together but for the average person one or the other will work. Take a look at a few manufacturer sites and you will see the difference or do a few searches on here and that will help you decide. There is also a nice write up in the how to section that explains them etc.

 

Also make sure where you weld them up has good metal and not a bad idea to have a shop do it if your not a experienced welder. My guy charged me $300 to $400 in labor IIRC but could probly be less because my 3 inch Magnaflow exhaust complicated things (very tight) so if you run stock exhaust it should be easier.

 

Right not the car is stock but I am going to be doing a swap I will have to do some homework before I make a purchase I saw Detroit speed has a nice set the are I on the outside and do not go lower then the existing g pinch rail. I and a certified welder by trade and my friend has a shop . 500 hp I am sure one set will suffice .

 

FYI the Detroit speed require some pretty extensive cutting and fab.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...onnectors.html

 

The UMI did not need extensive mods like that DSE, you will definitely want SFCs with that kind of power goal. With a lift and you knowing how to weld you will be all set. Another good chassis mod was the tubular Lower control arms and a panhard bar. Not a lot of money and noticeable handling results

 

Thanks for the information guys I was just watching an install on the Umi.... they look like a quality unit with an easier installation.

 

Looking into a l83 swap any thoughts on where to locate and pricing ?

 

I have not seen a single thirdgen in person that didn't have messed up fender pinch welds from idiots who don't know how to put them on a lift....I am sure there are tons out there with pristine pinch welds, but I have never seen one. Damn shame it is. I took my 85 Z28 to a shop for a safety inspection and told them very explicitly not to put it on a 2 post lift at all. Guess what they did? lol.

 

Took me interviewing 3 mechanics till i found one that had experience with 3rd gens and how to put them on a lift for safety inspections! Got to love it!

 

You guys get real safeties?

 

All depends on which state you live in etc, New York does and many others but quite a few do next to nothing.