Got the hood back on it today and then bolted the bumper cover back up hopefully for the last time. Looking to start spraying the base colors Monday.


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Bumper cover install.


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Just setting on the studs.


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I dont have any of the center brackets in yet as I need to blast and paint them but the gap between the hood and bumper will go away when I do.


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Safety first.


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Driver side bolted up.


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Passenger side bolted up.


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Last couple of days have been sanding the hood and bumper cover and then painting the fender jambs.


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Sanded the hatch window trim and resprayed it.


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Finished up the sanding today and wiped it down with wax and grease cleaner and then masked it up.


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Taped the divider line up that separates the white and silver and then masked the bottom off so I can spray the white first.


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I need to do this also. Any specific tips or tricks?

 

It depends on how bad yours as to what grit to start with but my final sanding was with 400. Tape off the glass as well as the body surround opening. I sanded the majority of mine with the hatch open as well as painting other than the top center. Sem black satin is a little glossier and closer to orig but Sem black satin matte has a touch less sheen to it..

 

Has been a busy 2 days but it has the white and silver base on it and 3 coats of clear. I did not clear the hood as I had 3 problem spots and decided to take it back down to epoxy and then back up. Still need to paint the red and blue stripes also.


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I ran the clear in a few places but it will wet sand out. Its pretty slick.


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Door jambs.


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looking good. i might have missed it, but how do you know what paint colors / codes to use on the car to?

 

The white is the factory color the car started as and then Morrison Cook painted the bottom half of the car silver like their prior Corvettes were. In 88 both the Camaro and Corvette silvers have different paint codes/names but are the same exact mix formula. The red and blue are corporate Mobil 1 colors but that proved to be harder to get codes for as I messaged and emailed several people at Mobil and non of them responded. Eventually I was able to find the mix recipes for both and then found a paint company that was familiar with them. I havent done a spray out with them yet but they look right just looking in the cans.

Interestingly enough on my car the blue and red stripes were first done by a sign shop and in oil based paint but later repairs were done in conventional automotive paint.

I am assuming the car that Bruce has is still wearing its paint as last painted in 89 so visually it may have a different shade between the paints being different back then plus aging. The car sold on BAT a few years back also had its paint from 88/89 however it had repairs made a couple years ago on the driver quarter and door iirc so odds are they would have paint matched the older paint rather than using current codes.

 

Have the hood sanded back down and will spray epoxy on it first of the week.


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Masked up and ready to spray the epoxy on it.


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Sprayed epoxy on the hood this morning.


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Started laying out the red and blue Mobil 1 colored stripes. The issue here is that each time the cars were repainted there are small differences in both location and the front top to bottom angle on the door. I measured where the very first ones were and the repainted ones as I was stripping through the paint layers. Even on the BAT car they differ from side to side.


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. Bolted the rear spoiler back on.


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Starting to mask off the area surrounding the stripes and then just the first one to be sprayed. Still have to do the other side.


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Sprayed the red and blue Mobil 1 stripes and then cleared them. The red looks slightly dark to me so I may have to get a custom color mixed that is brighter and respray them.


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Blocked the hood today and then taped off the headlight pockets and painted them. I had a couple small spots of bleed through but when I wet sand the bumper cover they will be gone.


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what a difference the black makes on the headlight pockets!
very cool restoration.

 

My father ran the Morrison-Cook Corvettes that ran in SSGT. I should have some photos of your camaro in my old photo pile. I will need to ask him what he knows of the history of this car. Is there an email or social media where I can correspond with you?

 

Blocked the 2 repaired spots on the hood and then sprayed the white epoxy primer on it. One day next week hope to get base back on it.


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Sealed the repairs back in with a light coat of gray epoxy.


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White epoxy. Not too shabby for primer.


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Blocked the hood in 180 and then 320 followed by 400 wet. Plan on spraying the base on Monday.


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Sprayed guide coat on it prior to blocking.


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georgiabandit78@yahoo.com

 

Sprayed the base and clear on the hood today so all of the paint and body work is done other than wet sanding and buffing.

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Also had a couple of connecting terminals come in where I am going to replicate the original battery cable.


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These proved a little difficult to find in a wire size comparable to the 2 wires in the main harness.


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Checking fit on the factory harness plugs.


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This is the 2 wire plug on the Tahoe battery cable. I'm going to cut this plug off and tie the 2 wires into the new plug connections.

 

Any chance there are any photos from Sears Point Raceway in Sonoma from back then?

 

Have been trying to knock out roughing in the body work on my 74 LT the last few days while its still warm enough to spray epoxy so havent done much on the Iroc but did get the filler neck surround and gas door bolted back up today. Also had the dual fan harness come in.

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I've been working between it and my 74 the last few days but did manage to get the door handles and locks installed back in the doors and hooked back up and working. Also got the side mirrors back on.


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I also dropped the steering column back down today and loosened the pedals so I could reinstall the one clutch master cylinder bracket that had given me issues. Its back in place and the master cylinder is bolted in place. I pulled the console back out too as I have a gray carpet set coming from a wrecked low mileage car.


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I've been chasing electrical issues the last few days trying to get it running. I started out with only power to the headlights and key buzzer but now have the starter and fuel pump coming on and power to the fuse box. It tries to start but so far is not. I also do not have the ses light coming on with the key so have to figure that out.

TPIS sent me the new tune and piggyback set up for the ecm and got that installed however the ecm was from a roller I had here so not sure if its good or not.

 

I've been working on and off on the electrical issues. The column mounted ignition switch and headlight dimmer were both pretty corroded so swapped them out and found a terminal bent over in the switch by whoever orig robbed the pedals. Corrected that but still no key on ses light. Verified the grounds and pulled the cluster back out to replace the corroded printed circuit.

Every thing I fix keeps repairing little electrical issues but still chasing the ses function.


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Ignition switch swapped out.


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Lower right bottom of the old switch you can see the terminal that was bent over and rusty,


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Bottom cluster is the original one with the corroded printed circuit. Top is a parts one with the same circuit part number.


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Getting ready to take the parts cluster apart.


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Clips removed.


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Bulbs removed.


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Printed circuit off.


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Original one with the corrosion.


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Getting ready to put the replacement parts back on the original cluster.


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Back together.

 

Back in the car to test.


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Polishing out the lens.


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Swapping the gauge surround for a nicer one.


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Back together on the front side.

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Back in the dash.

 

In checking tdc and pulling the distributor in and out numerous times I also discovered it was bottoming out on the oil pump shaft so ordered a shim kit and shimmed it. Also tossed a fresh set of spark plugs as the others were fuel fouled from trying to get it running.

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Posting the pics from earlier when I installed the TPIS recalibrated tune and piggy back.


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Replacing all the tail light bulbs and reinstalling a pair of ones I picked up from a low mileage wrecked car.


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I like to see the progress. Keep on, man!!!

 

I had a similar situation. Mine was a stack up of the tolerances between a new distributor gear, new cam, new oil pump and pump drive shaft. I wasn't able to get a seal at the distributor gasket. Disassembling the distributor and it was found that there weren't sufficient shims to remove between the gear and the housing.
Enter the Moroso shim kit. One thick shim (IIRC) and it sealed up. Good to go. (I may have incorporated a gasket in there too).

Keep up the good work!

 

Wired in a temporary power source today to power up the Snap On scanner and have it communicating with the ecm now. The last pic is my 74 LT that I keep mentioning as I'm working back and forth between the two. Its in white epoxy.


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Rear carpet is swapped out for the nicer one and plastics mostly back in.


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Polished up the 3rd brake light and got it back in place.


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Half of it polished.


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Cleaned up the air box pieces today and just set them in place. Still have to install the radiator and headlight reinforcement brackets before mounting it permanent.


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Got the new shifter boot bolted in it today. The GM parts counter book does not show a clip being used for the bolts however the bolt size it shows fell right through the threads without so I added them. There are recessed spots in the pan but both my stick cars didnt have any.


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I've been tinkering with the no start and at least one issue was no spark. Have power on both pink wires and ohm tested the 2 wire that runs from the distributor to the coil and its fine. Pretty sure the coil is bad so installed a new one but havent tried to see if it starts now as it was getting late.


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Went ahead and set the main carpet in it today but not mounting anything until I get it running incase I need access to the wiring. This carpet came from a low mileage car that had been wrecked.


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Well after swapping in a second new distributor today and finally having a good hot spark still no start. Pulled the numbers from the scanner log and sent them to my tuner and knowing he would have some basic questions went to check fuel pressure but couldnt find my gauge. I have fuel as I can smell it and the pump is doing its part but also found my compression tester.

Never had any issues with this builders engines before so just assumed there was compression but after checking 2 cylinders both were under 50. Going to pull the valve covers tomorrow and hope he just has the rockers adjusted wrong.

 

Pulled the valve covers and found the engine builder had the valve adjustment all messed up so regardless it would have never started. It appears he had adjusted them with the engine 180 out. I've readjusted them but all the no starts have put some fuel in the oil so drained the oil today and swapped out the filter.

I also pulled the plenum, runners and fuel rail back off so I can run the injectors on my flow bench and check them as at this point I want to have all my bases covered.

Pulled all the plugs and called it a day.


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One step closer, 2 steps back....

I spray pam on my "dry" runner gaskets, helps save them for reuse, just incase.

 

We've done that with carburetor gaskets in the past too.