KrisW

iTrader: (5)

OK, I'm back from overseas for good. My old rust bucket Firebird is now being transformed from borderline parts car to daily driver while I am taking college classes. Later, it will be completely restored but not to factory specs.

Right now, its at over 216k miles. Its rusty underneath because it came from Michigan City, Indiana when I bought it in May of 2005. Its with me in Florida now, and I am starting to put her together.

The only modifications beyond stock so far are a used and slightly beat up fiberglass twin turbo hood, and a V8 Flowmaster cat-back that will be installed in the next couple of days. I would have held onto the rusty exhaust a bit longer but the fuel pump just died on me a few days ago, and since I have to drop the tank, the new exhaust will be needed anyway. The old system is so rusty that it will most likely not be re-usable after its removed.

I just put on 4 new BFG 245/50-16s on a set of 86 Trans Am wheels. The wheels are driver condition but not nice enough for showing off. Everything is function first so far.

I've got a low mileage quick ratio Trans Am steering box, a used but big front sway bar, a bigger than stock rear bar from an 84 T/A, and another 10 bolt rear with disk brakes that I have a set of Summit Racing high strength 28 spline axles for, along with a low mileage 02 Zexel Torsen posi unit. I'll be keeping the 3.42 ratio because I like it.

I have the original 2.8 under the hood. Its slated for replacement after I get out of college, or sooner if it dies before then. It will be replaced with either a Buick V6 or a 3800 variant. Turbo will follow.

My trans is a V8 5 speed from an 86 Trans Am. I have a pro built T5 with G-Force internals to go in next. Its in a crate waiting to go in.

I will do the LS front brake upgrade probably when its time. The interior is ragged out and the exterior is rusty in all the usual spots. The driver's floor pan is shot and patched with tin flashing from a hardware store. I have subframe connectors that I will weld in as soon as I wire the plug for my mig in the garage. Its happening soon.

The fuel pump is priority one (keeping it alive) and that will happen shortly. I am running a Vortech EP381 AC Delco fuel pump. Its what I always run for my 400HP and less cars.

More to come soon!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I tore heavily into the rear of the car today to begin the fuel tank removal so that I can replace the pump. The rust was MUCH worse than I thought! Both sway bar end links were busted off and AWOL! They were there when I put the new tires on a couple of weeks ago, so I guess that hard driving (to properly seat the tires) was the end of them.

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

What are you going to do about all that rust? Would probably be worth it to start with a cleaner body.

-Jim

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Here's the pics of the two destroyed end links, along with the "new to me" used replacement parts courtesy of loneroad's moving sale!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Well, for right now its my daily driver due to the fact that my LS powered truck gets about 10 mpg with a tail wind.

I am patching the floors and installing some subframe connectors that I got off of eBay for it to help it out too.

Maybe someday I'll have the cash to buy a clean shell and start over, but until then, old Betsy is gonna stay on the road. Every decent southern car I come across, I fix it and sell it, or in the case of my last Firebird, I gave it to my mom.

If anyone has a free one let me know!

2007xl50

Well she is ugly for sure-sorry, but sounds like you are keeping her alive. Too bad it's not a V8 car as that would be one fun better. hope the project goes well.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

No need to be sorry.

I originally bought it for parts to convert another car over to 5 speed standard shift. I just ended up driving it too much and then keeping it.

As for the V8 part, its irrelevant. I want a Buick Turbo car for myself, and I want standard shift, so it doesn't matter what the car started with because the original engine would have been pulled anyway. I wouldn't have bought a TTA for my keeper because I want standard shift and I just can't justify converting over too rare a car like that.

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

Sway bar end links are cheap enough that you should just get new ones.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I gotta save all available pennies until I have a decent income again. Right now, zero budget is taking on a whole new meaning.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Ok, new problem...

Does anyone know what is supposed to go on the fuel line in the picture? Right now there is just a 3/8" fuel line with a bolt shoved in it.

Is it supposed to be a vent? Can it just have an open element filter put on that line? Or is it some sort of pressure valve? Something special?

I don't care about originality but I do want everything to function properly. If its no big deal I'll just put an open element on it, but I am thinking it might be more complicated than that.

I verified the fuel supply, fuel return, and charcoal filter lines going forward and they are all good to go, even if they ARE ugly.

I remembered my 89 having some sort of filter thing there that clipped into the nearby brake line bracket. Not really sure what it is though, and I can't find it on the auto parts stores websites.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ent-valve.html

Found this, which is what I am sure should be there. Now, since its no longer available, what can I replace it with?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Fu...-/370501848457

Something like that?

82tarecaro

iTrader: (4)

The fuel tank vent valve you found on Ebay looks like it attaches directly to a spot on the tank. The vent valve on a Thirdgen just fits on the end of the rubber hose(probably the one you have a bolt in) and has an extra piece of rubber hose attached to the opposite end.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I got the tank out today, and changed the pump. Tested the pump in a 5 gallon bucket of gas, its good to go.

Looking at the vent line on the sending unit, its not hooked to anything inside the tank. Its just open. I'll either hook a filter of some sort to the line with the bolt on it, or maybe even put an open element K&N type thing, like I used to use on motorcycle crankcase vents. It looks like it just needs to be a vent for fresh air to get inside my tank. I am sure it should NOT be bolted shut.

I'm wondering if I should put some sort of check valve on it so that air only goes in? Hmmm.....

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I got the tank out today, as I said before.

While I was getting the tank out, as I was contorting and twisting it to wrangle it out of its hole, gasoline started leaking when I tilted the tank forward. When I dropped it down, I found out. Under all the lines from the sending unit there was a big blob of JB weld type stuff. Not sure what was used, but it wasn't worth a damn because I ripped most of it off in my hand. When I was done cleaning the wound, I found the hole.

Wondering how in the world that might have happened, I crawled up inside the gas tank hole under the car and found some nasty workmanship from a previous owner or wrench. This is definitely the worst cut job for removing a pump from above that I have ever seen. They didn't even try to patch what they did; they just bent the pieces back down and put the carpet back on.

Sheesh.

Anyway, I guess I have a little more work to do, patch wise, before I reinstall the tank. Tank and car will get repaired in my garage now.

Yipeee!!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Access hole repaired, fuel tank repaired, fuel pump in, car runs again!

Now the bad...

My fuel gauge no longer works, SHEESH. I must have bumped something on the sender float I guess when I put it back in. Just pumped all the fuel out of the tank and I'll pull it again tomorrow. At least its only a couple connections and two bolts now.

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

Good to see you got it running. Will you be just bringing this car to the meet in October or the Camaro as well?

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

It depends on if they are both running or not! The IROC is next in line for a fuel pump, so we'll see how it turns out.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Ok, I fixed the fuel sending unit so my gas gauge works again. Has anyone here ever taken the sending unit apart and successfully repaired it? I'm curious because I just did but I don't know how long it will last.

Basically inside the shell there is a variable resistor pad that is bonded to the shell. The float arm has a little contact pad fixed at a 90 degree angle that rubs that contact pad. My little pad was broken off and lying at the bottom of the shell when I took it apart. I lost the spring on the end of the rod and replaced it with a similar sized spring from a click type ink pen. I soldered the contact pad piece back to the float arm and it works great for now.

Any thoughts on how long it might last? Since it was already broken when I took it apart, how does that little pad attach to the float arm from the factory anyway? Is there some sort of retainer that is supposed to hold it in?

Just curious.

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Great work!!! I did fix one years ago but never had to solder them.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

How did you fix yours?

Did a road test and so far its working fine. It will take me a while to burn the gas out of it and see if I'm off a little on the empty and full areas. It seems that when I first put it in it only went below 30 ohms when empty and up to 120 or so full. Or was that the other way around? Ha ha I really don't remember.

Anyway, during my road test I realized how well the car handles now. I got some surplus 84 Trans Am suspension parts from 386kustoms while I was gone overseas and I installed the rear stuff while I had it apart fixing the fuel pump. I used the Trans Am rear springs and the 24mm rear sway bar. The car feels AWESOME now! I really can't believe the difference. Those springs and sway bar definitely like the 16" Trans Am wheels and the BFG 245/50ZR16 tires too. What a combo!

I also left off the cat back exhaust since it was a test, just in case I had to take it all apart and pull the tank again. I'm calling the tank good, so now I need to install my new cat-back system. I also learned that the angle of the exhaust at the converter outlet is perfect for shooting exhaust up past my torn shifter boots and right into my lungs while driving. I guess I'll go ahead and change my shifter boots now too, since I got used stuff on eBay a while back.

Fun fun fun!

Davidgou

iTrader: (2)

Like I said, it's been yeeeeeears. But if I recall correctly it was the little wire that was broken and I just kind of streched it and skipped a loop so it would make a good connection. I was afraid of soldering it back then, so I didn't. I sold the car not long after that so I have no idea how long that lasted. lol

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I kept the tag off of my rear springs before I cleaned and painted them, they are NNM 10018092 springs. WOW! They really perform with that 24mm rear sway bar.

Does anyone know if those springs are variable rate or single? Just curious; I have no reason to change them because they do such a good job.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Update: The exhaust is now on.

I just installed a complete Flowmaster cat-back, the 86-91 American Thunder setup. Part number 17233. Only a few mods were needed.

The first mod required was to have a custom slip on adapter pipe with a mushroomed ball flange for my converter. It cost 10 bucks for the exhaust shop to just fab it up. I just hacked off the old flange from the catalytic converter, took it along with the new front pipe from the Flowmaster kit, and he made "one of these that fits to one of those" and I got her hooked up.

The second mod required was to replace the existing RH rear exhaust hanger from the V6 with a V8 piece that is part number 35468. Its just like this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walker-35648...06%26rk%3D1%26

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I just got my seat track fixed finally. I removed the rusted hulk that was non operational and installed a nice 4th gen 4-way manual setup that I just pulled yesterday from the U-Pull it yard. It was a 94 Camaro I believe.

There were 4 different F-body 3.4 setups there and it really got me thinking, but I am sticking with the Buick swap.

My "new to me" fiberglass twin turbo hood is now useable. Unfortunately that meant drilling holes and mounting hood pins. The whole hood is warped here and there and the underside has been cut for clearance and cracked in a few spots so I'll have to re-glass it and fix it up when its paint time. But at least it works now.

My camera is on the fritz again, so as soon as its back up I'll have some pictures.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

A few days ago (I forgot to post it) I replaced my windshield seal. Man, did I have a ton of digging of old caulking and crap out of those grooves to make the new one fit right. I also used the black 3M windshield sealer that fits in a caulking gun, and its good to go now. No more leaky windshield in the rain and no more wet driver's seat AFTER the rain.

I used this:

WEA-252 1985-1992 Windshield Glass Seal (from Camaro Central)

It was 18 bucks total with shipping, looked just like OEM, fit great, and there was plenty extra left over. Bully for them! They'll get more business from me for sure.

Installed the new lower shift boot. Its not new but it is in like new condition. I also have the upper shift boot to replace, but unlucky for me, when I removed it the top plastic panel cracked into pieces. Those are extinct now, so I am gonna have to fab a piece from aluminum to replace it. Wish me luck!

Now I just made copies of my wiring diagrams out of my factory service manual and its time to repair the stereo wiring. Its a massive nightmare.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Waiting on my new, but used, camera to get here in the mail so I can update my pictures.

Last night I rebuilt the RH headlight motor drive with the new bushing kit from thirdgen ranch. Its really nice to have the headlights pop up and down like they're supposed to. Of course, as I was taking it all apart and removing the headlight the little trim ring gave up. 3 of the 4 tabs that hold the chrome retainer ring snapped off. Luckily for me the local Advance Auto Parts had the universal retainer for 11 bucks so I got it back together.

Got my hacked up stereo wiring all sorted out and hooked up to my salvage JVC stereo. The two left side speakers work but both right sides are blown. One has an open reading and the other is like 34 mega ohms. My two left ones are 10 or 11 ohms each. New speakers will come eventually, but I might have some more used ones lying around in my parts bins or my other broken cars.

Got my lights all fixed in the dash and now I can see the heater controls at night; that's really neat! :P

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Replaced my rusted solid cigarette lighter with a generic 12v power port from the auto parts store. That's all I use it for anyway, so I'm happy about it. Now I actually have power for my phone charger and my Garmin. It just keeps getting better!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Well, I was doing some extensive road testing and found that some excessive exhaust gets into the car when I sit at a stop sign. I think I fixed that, but while I was under the front end looking around at the steering parts I found my RH front sway bar link bushings rotted away and missing. Of course the bolt snapped when I took it out. Ditto the LH side, but the bushings were at least there. They were rubber, so I got a set of MOOG poly pieces at Advance.

I went ahead and dropped on my 37mm Trans Am front sway bar to match, since why not once you've pulled the end links off, right?

Next up is the new test drive to see if the front stops wandering around while I drive at anything over 40 or so.

Still waiting on my camera...

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

Luckily you just have a lot of little things to fix. Good progress so far. Keep it up.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Thanks man.

Next big thing is the AC, but it will get done. Next little things, the gas pedal has to be refit to the rod, I have to do something with my top shifter plate on the console, install my rear console box lid...

I still have to install my subframe connectors, too.

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

What's wrong with the shifter plate?

What brand subframe connecters are you going with?

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Well, it started out that both shifter boots were all torn up. I took out the center console and then replaced the main, heavy rubber boot against the transmission tunnel (4 of the large mount screws were also missing.) That was nice because now the interior really is sealed away from the outside.

While I had the top shifter plate off, I decided to change the thin shifter boot that goes in the console. As soon as I took the four small screws out that hold the metal boot retainer plate the whole plastic top plate cracked in half. Then as I was holding it together to figure out if I was going to epoxy it or what, it cracked in two more places. Its completely unrepairable now.

I've been examining the automatic shifter plate in my mom's car and it looks like I might be able to carefully saw off the automatic shift indicators and then affix the standard shift boot to it. I can't find a decent standard shift plate, and the non decent ones are going for nearly a hundred bucks!

I'm going to make a template out of some scrap aluminum and see where I can get with that.

My subframe connectors are eBay home built specials from some guy in Ohio. They are supposed to be bolt-ons but I will weld them on.

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

I swapped my auto shift plate to the manual shift plate. I still have the boot and indicator, the plate itself was broken. You can have the boot and indicator if you want it. It's in very good shape.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I need a plate for my standard shift setup. You said you swapped yours over? I'd like to hear more about that. I'd much rather have a stock looking setup than a home made one.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Ok, got my camera back together so now I can post my update pics.

First up, hood pins. I HATE THEM. Unfortunately, I had to do something since the safety latch is busted off from shipping. Now I can drive whatever speed I want and not worry about it flying off.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Next two pictures are the Flowmaster cat back system.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Steering wheel got disassembled, removed, reinstalled properly with horn working!

Console lid installed (thanks RCAR7395) from Ray

Stereo wiring fixed, stereo installed and functional. The hvac controls are all fixed and working now, even the lights. The trim plate is cut up from a previous owner and the whole pod that the controls and stereo sit in is broken on the stereo mount portions. Oh well. I am fixing it to keep and run for myself, so I live with it.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

My 4 way manual control seat track from a 4th gen Camaro, I am SO happy about this one. I am really tall when I sit (short legs) and without this seat track my head was hitting the roof sometimes. Now I can kick the rear down and no worries!

I got a new clutch pedal pad from thirdgen ranch and installed that. I remounted my defective gas pedal by drilling the retaining pin at the end and then using a cotter pin type device to keep that pin from slipping out of the gas pedal rod. Works great, and now I have all three pedals again! I just need a new brake pedal pad for the best feel but I have no complaints with how they work right now.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

So, I've been putting some miles on the car lately, and the steering could be a little better. Its not bad, but its definitely OLD CAR steering. The drive of the car has greatly improved with my Trans Am 37/24 bars, poly end links, and T/A rear springs. I absolutely need to swap on one of my fast ratio steering boxes and replace the steering linkage too. Some of it has been replaced before, some is OEM. Its on the to do list.

While I was replacing the front end links and sway bar, I notice that one of my front struts is leaking oil. Both look old and beat. Ditto the rear shocks. I've got a Tokico HP set earmarked on eBay for later. On the to do list.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I also have my set of 84 T/A front springs to install, I'll do that when I do the struts/shocks.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

So, my idle is not the best. I decided that what I really needed to do was to pull the IAC and clean it. I'm not sure if I did the right thing or not.

Before when it was cold it did not like to idle well. It ran like crap actually. Even after it warmed up it seemed to me that there was some hesitation and stumbling here and there, but it was sporadic instead of regularly missing. After cleaning the IAC it does not idle at all when its cold. It just won't. Its terrible and I have to keep revving it up to keep it alive until it finally will run but its stumbling and missing and sounds terrible. Once its warmed up though, it idles good and mostly at 750 rpms. The throttle response is better through the whole range now, too.

So my question is, should I try to reset the ECM or something after messing with IAC? Or maybe the IAC is just shot and needs replaced? Just to make sure, I ohm-ed all my plug wires, replaced the plugs, and its exactly the same.

Any ideas?

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Tonight I found out the REAL reason that idle sucked so bad. I kept seeing the volts drop down below 13 on the gauge and heard the belt squealing. I thought, "oh great, there goes my lifetime warranty alternator AGAIN. THANKS AUTO ZONE." But it wasn't their fault this time.

I got under hood to inspect the belt situation and found a loose bracket that bolts between the alternator and the inboard belt tensioner mounting bolt. Said bolt was missing.

I took off the tensioner and found it to not be moving so freely as it should. It seems that it was a bit defective and then for whatever reason, the inboard mount bolt just went AWOL. A trip to Advance and I got a new tensioner, Dayco 89239, and then got some new metric flange head bolts to get it positioned right.

The old one looks like it might have been OEM. I posted a pic to see if anybody chimes in.

Anyway, the idle is good to go now, no more low voltage readings, and it drives and start great!

On to the AC in a few days!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

My stupid windshield started leaking again.... Different spots than before but still a pain in the butt.

Today means resealing it again. I can't get by in the rain capitol of the US without that windshield sealing!

On a brighter note, it runs like a top now, so its fully up to daily driver status. I just need to fix the AC to make it a little more enjoyable.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Okay, so we got the windshield re-sealed. There's been enough rain lately to test it and it's so far so good, for now.

I got some new seat belt headrest hoops from ebay, but I can't remember which way they mount. Forward or rearward mount? I posted in the interior section for help on that one.

I bought a new IAC today since the car's idle is wrong and I want it fixed.

Now, it's time to dig out all my chip burning stuff so that I can have a go at that.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

Okay, IAC installed and I have a verified 18mpg average driving to college and back 4 days a week. I'm really happy about that.

Installed my seat belt hoops onto the seats and now I can use them without rubbing my neck and face. Nice!

I took the car past a friend's shop this morning to have him pull a vacuum on and test my A/C system for leaks. Next thing I know, its pumped full of freon with dye and its blowing cold air for the first time ever since I've had it! I am so happy I just don't really know what to say.

One thing I WILL say, the poor 2.8L engine is not happy. It runs well enough, but with the A/C on it feels like I'm pulling a car trailer, hahahhaha! I guess its starting to feel those 216xxx miles hahahhaha!

Oh well, its my daily driver now!

More repairs will come as they are needed. I just got my MIG welder assembled and I tested it, so frame ties will happen soon. I'd like to put the car on a frame rack first, just to make sure its straight before I make it permanent.

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

If you get it up on a rack to make sure it is straight, I'd be interested in where you got it done. Want to do that before I get subframe connectors installed.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I heard through my Plant City grapevine that there is a guy here in Lakeland who has one in his backyard. Go figure. I guess he does collision repair on the side for people he knows.

I am in the process of contacting him and when I do, I'll be sure to let you know!

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I had a mysterious problem with my ACC 20A fuse blowing every now and then. I happened to be moving the car today and then I heard the popping while my interior light went out and the radio shut off.

It seems that a few wires of unknown (to me) purpose that are in the center console got munched by my emergency brake lever when I have been pulling it up. Its a two wire plug, with orange and black wires. The black one was cut all the way through and the orange was in the process. The plug on the end looks similar to one of the older OEM stereo harness plugs, but what's it doing between the shifter and the center console glove box? Maybe a power mirror feed or something? It just lays dormant there in my "nearly no options" car. Its now all cleaned up and tied down out of harms way.

I'm still trying to find the frame rack guy so that I can weld on my sfcs.

KrisW

iTrader: (5)

I had a very productive day today at the wrecking yard, and along with getting parts for my IROC I also got a few for the bird. I got two nice red rear speaker covers with the little hanger hooks and screws from a 91 Camaro. I also got the plastic cover that goes on the passenger side to cover all the wiring and heater core from the passenger area. Lots of miscellaneous screws and fasteners that I was missing were acquired as well. I got a new vent grille that goes next to the door striker, and a cover for my strut mount that was missing on my car too.

I guess its time for me to take all the plastics out and clean them, then stain them or paint them red again with that Krylon fusion plastic paint, then reassemble the interior plastics properly. I am running out of excuses. The only thing I am missing is the headliner and I am not sure that I will put it back anyway. If I do, it can certainly be done independently of the other interior parts at a later date.

Also, the engine is running super good for no reason. I haven't done anything to it lately but just keeping adding oil. Usually at this mileage point (217xxx) that means its going to blow soon. I really wanted to rebuild the rear axle first before I put the other engine in!

Nunazet

iTrader: (1)

That would be the wires for the glove box light.