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Very nice build! Some very quality work going in and attention to detail. I'm impressed!
I just finished my 5.3LS swap with a torque storm supercharger and just got it on the road the other day. I can't even explain how awesome the motor feels even for a boosted stock 5.3. Your going to love the way it drives!
Couple of things tho... Why are you running a MAF? Even the larger MAFs it's more beneficial to switch to SD and ditch the MAF. SD provides crisper throttle response and you don't have to worry about the MAF in the system and how the air runs through the MAF. MAFs require a certain amount of tubing before and after that's straight so the air turbulence doesn't affect the MAF readings. I had to cut the MAF out of my system and then tune in 2bar SD. But I did a lot of research before committing to SD over MAF. Everywhere I posted I was told to go to SD, MAFs can be a PItA to tune but also max out depending on the year and PCM being used, otherwise scaling the readings will work but affects resolution. Using HP tuners pro here and their is def a learning curve! Another thing I gotta ask is why your running the professional products intake? They performed much worse than the stock plastic truck intakes as well as the car intakes. A lot of people complain about them not sealing as well. Stock truck intake makes more power than the LS6 below 4800rpms I believe. Just saying... But since u got it. Your not running any SFC?
Everything else is pretty good on your build. How are you going to wire up the IPad? I also run a 4" exhaust and I run 2 mufflers and it's still pretty loud lol.
Interested in how your going to do the small projector fogs, I made my own quad projector headlights and stock fogs with HIDs but the fogs are blinding and too much. I'm going to be figuring out how to get a smaller projector in there but making it look good.
Thanks for the feedback. Congrats on getting your project on the road.
I kept the MAF because I felt that going SD would be a compromise. I know MAF is harder to tune and it can be sensitive to improper installation, but I want the engine to be able to adjust to hot or cold days, humid or dry days...here in south Georgia you can get all extremes in a 24 hour period. I'm planning on bringing it to an experienced professional for the tune. If it doesn't work out, it will be easier to remove it later than to start without and add it back in.
I went with the PP intake because it was available (and cheap). I've had one before on an LS1 Camaro and never had any of the sealing issues that some have reported. The manifold that I got has cathedral ports and a 96mm opening (which I plan to open up to 101mm). Other options were very pricey. When this becomes a significant limit to power/efficiency, I'll trade up.
I have Spohn SFCs. I'm waiting to get the tires installed and get the car off the lift and set to ride-height before I weld them in.
The iPad will connect to the InfinityBox system via WiFi to control all of the vehicle electrical systems, including engine start. The InfinityBox is supposed to have some pulsewidth capabilities as well so I'm going to see if I can control the fuel pump and electric water pump via PWM. The iPad will also connect via lightning cable to a hidden Sony stereo. There's a Sony app that will allow all stereo functions to be controlled via the iPad. I also have Bluetooth TPMS and I'll add a Bluetooth GPS to get nav as well.
I admit I haven't given too much thought to the fog lights yet. My next priority is getting the engine wired and started. Let me know what you figure out for getting projectors in there.
Thanks for the feedback. Congrats on getting your project on the road.
Your welcome, and thank u.
I kept the MAF because I felt that going SD would be a compromise. I know MAF is harder to tune and it can be sensitive to improper installation, but I want the engine to be able to adjust to hot or cold days, humid or dry days...here in south Georgia you can get all extremes in a 24 hour period. I'm planning on bringing it to an experienced professional for the tune. If it doesn't work out, it will be easier to remove it later than to start without and add it back in.
I agree with its ability to compensate for envoiromental changes, however most new cars all use SD and have no issues compensating for a larger range than me or you will ever see. Im in NJ and we get huge drastic changes in temp as well... Today it was 41*F at 9am, its now 66*F outside thats a 25*F difference, being in GA your prob a good but warmer than me all year round. But I understand your logic as that was mine as well, but my 2014 RAM is SD stock and that goes from -10 to 100*F and runs good lol... so SD can't be that bad.
I went with the PP intake because it was available (and cheap). I've had one before on an LS1 Camaro and never had any of the sealing issues that some have reported. The manifold that I got has cathedral ports and a 96mm opening (which I plan to open up to 101mm). Other options were very pricey. When this becomes a significant limit to power/efficiency, I'll trade up.
Gotcha, they are cheap for a reason lol. Boosting a stock 4.8 isn't going to cause any noticable restrictions where intake design/ TB opening and better flowing heads are going to make noticable differences in power. NA motors and boosted motors behave very differently, the principle is the same that less flow restriction increased HP but the limiting factor is sucking air in vs it being forced in. A carb jet is sized to flow a certain amount through vacuum or fuel being pulled through... now remove the vacuum and push fuel through at 3psi (a very low amount of pressure) and flow of that same jet will increase dramatically. Same reason why a stock 4.8/5.3 head will make 300hp on a stock motor with stock cam but throw 15psi and that same motor will make 600hp. Intakes can affect RPM range more than "flow" but TB's are pointless on a boosted motor unless your pushing the limits and its a full out build trying to get every ounce of power out of it. Stock intakes are much better for heat transfer and are very sturdy under boost, the PP is better than the ebay sheetmetal intakes but your going head soak bad with it. I doubt you will see any power increase over a stock truck intake and stock sized TB. I'm not trying to knock you, as the PP looks better than at stock truck intake but from a performance standpoint I look at it as a step backward. Stock intakes are able to support wayy more HP than the stock blocks can take.
I have Spohn SFCs. I'm waiting to get the tires installed and get the car off the lift and set to ride-height before I weld them in.
Thats smart... I just wanted to make sure you were supporting the car with all the power its going to make lol. I just cringe everytime I See you cut into the car after doing all the priming lol.
The iPad will connect to the InfinityBox system via WiFi to control all of the vehicle electrical systems, including engine start. The InfinityBox is supposed to have some pulsewidth capabilities as well so I'm going to see if I can control the fuel pump and electric water pump via PWM. The iPad will also connect via lightning cable to a hidden Sony stereo. There's a Sony app that will allow all stereo functions to be controlled via the iPad. I also have Bluetooth TPMS and I'll add a Bluetooth GPS to get nav as well.
Interesting, never heard of it. I will have to look into that. I would love to run a cheap android small tablet in my radio cluster since I dont have a radio and deleted everything and used to have my FAST 2.0 screen there, which is now blank since I went LS PCM.
I admit I haven't given too much thought to the fog lights yet. My next priority is getting the engine wired and started. Let me know what you figure out for getting projectors in there.
Those are important priorities! I have been looking for LED projectors with clean cutoffs but haven't found much yet. Standard H1 bixenon projectors are too wide to fit the stock holes and would have to be recessed back alot. I have found mini H4 projectors that mount like an H4 bulb but integrating that into the shallow H3 Fog light won't work which means total custom retrofit. Light output isn't bad from them for what they are and the xtra light and not blinding oncoming drivers its a viable option.
Good luck!
Last edited by customblackbird; May 16, 2016 at 01:32 PM.
Since I'm running the oil breather into the exhaust, I need to finish the rest of it before getting the catch can installed. The tubes, muffler, and cutout came this week.
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 29, 2016 at 11:29 AM.
The summer kind of got away from me...other projects kept me from making progress on the car, but I finally have an update. The exhaust is finished (except for final welds and coating).
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 24, 2020 at 11:07 AM.
Reason: fixed photobucket pictures
Nice work! I'm assuming the cutout is more for noise than free flowing? Just due to the location, angle it intersects the exhaust and the fact that the whole exhaust really isn't a restriction.
The cutout is mostly to control the tone. I don't want it to sound like a Honda when it switches into 4-cyl mode so I figured the cutout will let me tune the exhaust note some. It's 4".
I finally got a set of tires. Michelin Pilot Super Sports. The rears are 325 and they stick out about 3/8 to 1/2 inch from the top of the wheel well. I can't move them in without cutting further into the subframe, so I might talk to the body shop and see if they can roll the fenders out a little. The fronts are 275 and the Grand Sport offsets are different from the base C6 that I sized the spacers off of. I think I will need about a 1/2" spacer for the fronts instead of the 2" that I have. The other thing I noticed is how low it sits. The truck oil pan that's on there is 2" off the ground. I'll have to go with a shallower oil pan and I may need to bring the y-pipe up a bit if I can.
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 25, 2020 at 08:33 AM.
Reason: fixed photobucket pictures
Doh! I didn't see u went with a stock truck 5.3... oil pan def won't work lol. U can swap to a fbody oil pan for less than $300 new. Includes pan, windage tray, gasket and pickup and bolts. Dropped right in on my 5.3 swap. Other route is to cut the stock pan and shorten it. But you loose oil capacity. The fbody sump pushes much further forward toward the kmember than the truck pan so beware.
I pulled the motor back out so I could finish up the engine bay (welding the seams and rebuilding the top core support). It will also be easier to finish the plumbing with the engine out. I ordered an Fbody oil pan, and when it arrives I'll finish the drains off the turbos. I also have to tap into the water pump spacers so I can run water to the turbos. After that it's welding bungs onto the valve covers and mounting the catch can.
I have a lot of grinding to do to smooth out the seams, so don't be too judgmental;-)
I ordered the infinitybox system yesterday. That should make wiring a lot easier. Here's a couple pics, hopefully I'll be able to get it started in another couple months.
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 25, 2020 at 08:44 AM.
Reason: fixed photobucket pictures
While there's nothing sexier than a shiny billet windshield washer fluid reservoir taking up half the engine bay, I decided to hide mine. It helped that I didn't really have room for it anyway. And while it's not machined out of billet, it's out of the way and hopefully won't leak. It will fill through a small hole in the top of the cowl.
And in the "crap we have to do to make crap fit" department, the water pump spacers that I have are about 0.020 too thin. It's because they have integral o-rings that add zero net thickness. If I use gaskets, I'll get back the thickness that I need, but they are not compatible with the o-ring lands. So...I welded up the lands on one side and I'll machine it flat so I can use the gaskets. It's no wonder this project is taking so long.
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 25, 2020 at 08:40 AM.
I finally finished setting up the accessory brackets. The AC and tensioner brackets are homemade. With the turbo routing the way it is, I couldn't figure out any other way.
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 25, 2020 at 08:42 AM.
Reason: fixed photobucket pictures
The transmission is coming along. Unfortunately I sold the old extension housing with the bearing races still in it so I had to order a couple additional bearings. I'm hoping it all comes together, I should have it done in a week or so.
I finally received the InfinityBox kit. I'm looking forward to starting the wiring.
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 25, 2020 at 08:48 AM.
Reason: fixed photobucket pictures
I’m getting close to being ready for paint. I’m getting all of the body parts together and assembled with new hardware. It’s a pain finding parts that I removed years ago and ebay has been my best friend lately. Since the headlights make up part of the body, I rebuilt both assemblies before I install them.
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 25, 2020 at 08:50 AM.
Reason: fixed photobucket pictures
Did u know u can upgrade the internal gears to metal in the headlights?a guy on eBay does the upgrades and fully rebuilds the motors as well, just asks that you send in yours to rebuild or he sends u persons sets and a core charge. Reasonably priced and I opened one up after getting it back and it had the upgraded metal gears that I paid for. They haven’t given me 1 bit of trouble in over 2 years.
You don't really need the metal gears, and they are easy to install yourself if you do want them. I will be putting them in my next build since I bought them already, but I did the plastic bushings in my 92 and that was all that it needed
I finished the brackets for the HID fog lights. They fit pretty good, but smaller bezels would work better. I like the fact that they’ll let air around them to help feed the intercoolers.
I also got the rest of the body put together. She’s all dressed up and ready for paint! Does anyone recommend a good paint and body shop in the southeast (I’m in Savannah, GA.) that knows third gens?
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 25, 2020 at 09:00 AM.
Reason: fixed photobucket pictures
Yep, they suck. If I copy the link from the PB app, it doesn’t work, if I copy it from the website, it does. I couldn’t remember which was which, so it didn’t work on the original post. Looks like it’s there now.
The car is in the body shop being painted from the jambs forward. In the meantime, I’m going to prep the engine and trans for installation. I painted them today.
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 25, 2020 at 09:05 AM.
Reason: fixed photobucket pictures
Curious about those inlets, are you expecting ram air in? I'm thinking that faster flowing air under the car (low pressure) will cause air to be pulled from the top side. Unless you put a scoop below beyond the turbulent boundary layer?
There is an air dam behind the inlets. My hope is that it works similar to the air dam beneath the radiator and creates a stagnation area just below the inlet. Between that and the ram air through the fog lights, I’m crossing my fingers. I won’t know for sure until I get it on the road and start measuring IATs..
A fellow Georgian!
Great build, I was wanting to do the same tear down for my car but just don't have the space at my house. It's coming along great, I'll be keeping up with it.
I wired up the starter so I could make sure everything cranks over ok before I install the engine. It cranked good and the belt didn’t fly off or anything (that was a bit of a concern since the brackets and tensioner were all homemade).
One problem: no oil came out of the oil cooler line. I pulled a valve cover...no oil out of the pushrods and I pulled the oil pressure sensor with no oil there either. Uh oh. I pretty sure there should be some flow with just the starter cranking. I’m thinking maybe I missed an o-ring or something on the pickup. Unfortunately it’s a pain in the *** to lift the engine off the cradle and pull the oil pan. Just another step back I guess.
Another note: when I pulled the valve cover, I noticed some aluminum shavings on the forward-most rocker. It had been catching the edge of the valve cover. It will be easy enough to add clearance, but I wouldn’t have normally noticed. Interestingly enough, I saw these same valve covers on one of those hot rod shows and they had to scrap them because of interference with the rockers.
I wired up the starter so I could make sure everything cranks over ok before I install the engine. It cranked good and the belt didn’t fly off or anything (that was a bit of a concern since the brackets and tensioner were all homemade).
One problem: no oil came out of the oil cooler line. I pulled a valve cover...no oil out of the pushrods and I pulled the oil pressure sensor with no oil there either. Uh oh. I pretty sure there should be some flow with just the starter cranking. I’m thinking maybe I missed an o-ring or something on the pickup. Unfortunately it’s a pain in the *** to lift the engine off the cradle and pull the oil pan. Just another step back I guess.
Another note: when I pulled the valve cover, I noticed some aluminum shavings on the forward-most rocker. It had been catching the edge of the valve cover. It will be easy enough to add clearance, but I wouldn’t have normally noticed. Interestingly enough, I saw these same valve covers on one of those hot rod shows and they had to scrap them because of interference with the rockers.
i have never had oil pressure while cranking on an LS motor. I just crank it for 5s bursts a couple of times with the fuel pump off, then crank it for good. The LS crank driven pumps are not like the old school pumps and that u need a bit of rpm to build pressure. You can also make a pressurized oil container to prime the whole engine via the front pressure port next to the pump on the driver side.
Ive done 3 LS 5.3s and even on a test stand I build I build no pressure while cranking. Don’t worry about it, make sure it has oil pressure as soon as it cranks and idles.
Those aluminum VC are junk, throw the stockers on, spacers if u need to or get the tall holleys.
I get what you’re saying about not building pressure while cranking, but I’m not getting anything. It should at least dribble out the oil cooler outlet above the filter when cranking. Shouldn’t it? If there was meant to be no flow at all, why even bother cranking for 5 seconds a couple times with the fuel pump off?. I’ll double check the oil pickup and internals this weekend just to be safe. Easier to do now than after the engine is in the car.Update: Turns out LS oil pumps don’t like to sit for several years...they lose their prime. By pouring some oil through the port on the driver’s side, I re-primed the pump and everything worked as expected. Time to install the engine.
Last edited by tomsaddy; May 12, 2019 at 04:30 PM.
Reason: Added update.
Looks good! Not planning to run any exhaust out the back as in long tubes?
The exhaust will follow the stock layout (after the turbo downpipes). I should have it installed in a couple weeks or so and will post pics. If you scroll up to the top of this page, you’ll see the initial fit-up.
There is a lot going on under the hood here. What are the three tanks at the firewall? I know the brake reservoir
And what is that tube that goes across, right behind the radiator support?
I like your copious use of the hard stainless tube instead of soft hose. I am planning a dry sump system for my second gen, and I am planning on using hard line everywhere I can with short hoses, where necessary, to connect the movable engine to the fixed chassis. Less hose means less to replace in the future when the hose rots or fails.
From left to right: Radiator overflow (that’s the tube that runs in front of the radiator support), clutch reservoir (the little white plastic one), fuel filter housing, and power steering fluid reservoir)
I finished the front end wiring. I was able to run wires through the frame rails, under the fenders, and inside the front bumper. The InfinityBox PowerCell, pwm fan module, and relays are all tucked in.
I also completed the steering install, with the Astro intermediate shaft. Next will be the turbos and exhaust. I have the body panels installed and I’m waiting for the paint shop to have an opening. Until then, I’ll work on getting it running.
