yay....then ohhhhhhh
#1
yay....then ohhhhhhh
got the car running again today, new ground cables and ground straps, realized that the positive cable was arching from the starter to the long tube headers, so bought another positive cable as well
engine won't stay running without 12 degrees initial timing, kinda strange won't idle below 1000 RPM out of gear, in gear it'll die out without putting my foot on the gas.....so anyone have any ideas? Also, when revving the motor up it takes forever to come back down to idle....i know the blades are slapping shut because i tried pulling the throttle closed more and my double springs are definately whipping them closed quickly. any help here?
also...changed the oil again after screwing around with it idling for about 45minutes....came out nice and normal looking, cut open the filter and it looked metal free.....so i'm sure it was the cam break in lube for sure.
engine won't stay running without 12 degrees initial timing, kinda strange won't idle below 1000 RPM out of gear, in gear it'll die out without putting my foot on the gas.....so anyone have any ideas? Also, when revving the motor up it takes forever to come back down to idle....i know the blades are slapping shut because i tried pulling the throttle closed more and my double springs are definately whipping them closed quickly. any help here?
also...changed the oil again after screwing around with it idling for about 45minutes....came out nice and normal looking, cut open the filter and it looked metal free.....so i'm sure it was the cam break in lube for sure.
Last edited by xpndbl3; 05-16-2004 at 08:20 PM.
#2
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Car: 84 Z/97 Tacoma 4X4
Engine: 350 H.O Crate,slp 1 3/4,3"catback,Edelelbrock 1406,Edelbrock perfrormer Endurashine
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Mine was doing almost the same thing , except it would not idle. Had to keep on the gas. Found out the 2 short bolts for the rear of my Q-jet were bout 1/4" too long.Big leak!Once I replaced them, I was able to back off the timing. Check the little things first.
Less than 2 weeks!
No pressure................YET!
Less than 2 weeks!
No pressure................YET!
#3
Senior Member
Re: yay....then ohhhhhhh
Originally posted by xpndbl3
got the car running again today, new ground cables and ground straps, realized that the positive cable was arching from the starter to the long tube headers, so bought another positive cable as well
engine won't stay running without 12 degrees initial timing, kinda strange won't idle below 1000 RPM out of gear, in gear it'll die out without putting my foot on the gas.....so anyone have any ideas? Also, when revving the motor up it takes forever to come back down to idle....i know the blades are slapping shut because i tried pulling the throttle closed more and my double springs are definately whipping them closed quickly. any help here?
also...changed the oil again after screwing around with it idling for about 45minutes....came out nice and normal looking, cut open the filter and it looked metal free.....so i'm sure it was the cam break in lube for sure.
got the car running again today, new ground cables and ground straps, realized that the positive cable was arching from the starter to the long tube headers, so bought another positive cable as well
engine won't stay running without 12 degrees initial timing, kinda strange won't idle below 1000 RPM out of gear, in gear it'll die out without putting my foot on the gas.....so anyone have any ideas? Also, when revving the motor up it takes forever to come back down to idle....i know the blades are slapping shut because i tried pulling the throttle closed more and my double springs are definately whipping them closed quickly. any help here?
also...changed the oil again after screwing around with it idling for about 45minutes....came out nice and normal looking, cut open the filter and it looked metal free.....so i'm sure it was the cam break in lube for sure.
My starter wires were arching against the headers too. Soo... A shop charged me $600 to cut and splice a wire going over it.
Btw, how hard was it to take out that oil pan because I need to do mine real soon. Its kinda smashed right by the drain plug and no matter what I do, it still leaks.
#4
Supreme Member
So when I throw out my 305 your gonna help me put in a tree fity right
#6
Senior Member
Can you give me some helpful tips. What else do you have to remove besides the motor mount bolts etc? I am seriously going to do this soon.
THanks
Oh yeah, and about how long of a job is this.
THanks
Oh yeah, and about how long of a job is this.
#7
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Car: 85 s-10 soon
Engine: just a small block
Transmission: th350
Whats your fuel pressure at? What type of injection are you using? Do you have a good throtle return spring?
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#9
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Car: 85 s-10 soon
Engine: just a small block
Transmission: th350
I'd check for a vacuum leek then. If none are found check the jetting on the holley it might be too rich and dont you tink that the 750 is a little big for that little sbc. Id personally go with a 600-650 max for that engine. You really shouldnt need much more than that.
#10
Originally posted by SMOKY21
I'd check for a vacuum leek then. If none are found check the jetting on the holley it might be too rich and dont you tink that the 750 is a little big for that little sbc. Id personally go with a 600-650 max for that engine. You really shouldnt need much more than that.
I'd check for a vacuum leek then. If none are found check the jetting on the holley it might be too rich and dont you tink that the 750 is a little big for that little sbc. Id personally go with a 600-650 max for that engine. You really shouldnt need much more than that.
#11
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Originally posted by xpndbl3
haha.....7 psi, holley 750, carb'd no injection, and if you look above it says my double springs are more than adequate to shut this carb. strange strange i know. seems like timing is the issue, but not sure how. good times.
haha.....7 psi, holley 750, carb'd no injection, and if you look above it says my double springs are more than adequate to shut this carb. strange strange i know. seems like timing is the issue, but not sure how. good times.
ok i had the SAME problem with my motor last week the motor wouldn't run what i tryed to set base timeing at 8º it would only run at 18º found out that i had to retune the carb.... take your timeing like and a eng. vac reader thingy back off the timeing 2º then re tune the carb.... keep doing that till you get the motor to run at 8º for base timing... after then play with the idle mix screws till you get the most eng. vac... hook up the vac advance and let ti idle you should be bale to let it get to 850RPM (with chock off) in park with out worrying if the motor will die (unless you have a high lift cam) just keep in mind then when your tuneing the carb make such the motor is at normal temp and the chock is off.. after i did that the motor was runing nice and strong :-D
#12
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Originally posted by SMOKY21
I'd check for a vacuum leek then. If none are found check the jetting on the holley it might be too rich
I'd check for a vacuum leek then. If none are found check the jetting on the holley it might be too rich
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Car: 1994 Jeep Wrangler
Re: Re: yay....then ohhhhhhh
Originally posted by Thirdgen86TA
My starter wires were arching against the headers too. Soo... A shop charged me $600 to cut and splice a wire going over it.
Btw, how hard was it to take out that oil pan because I need to do mine real soon. Its kinda smashed right by the drain plug and no matter what I do, it still leaks.
My starter wires were arching against the headers too. Soo... A shop charged me $600 to cut and splice a wire going over it.
Btw, how hard was it to take out that oil pan because I need to do mine real soon. Its kinda smashed right by the drain plug and no matter what I do, it still leaks.
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