Just like to get everyones ideas on some good low 13 to 12 sec setups N/A. got 3,500 to spend on this car...and i already have a NX kit.

 

What does it run now? If it's 16+ seconds then it'll take more than $3500. If it's low 14's then it doesn't take as much.

Fix your picture. Not everyone has broadband.

 

Well since its a formula 350, if you use the 350 you have now, upgrade your TPI with some better runners and so fourth for higher RPM usage, get a fairly large roller cam, a nice (non B&M) stall converter, 3.42's and posi if you dont already have em, drag radials will be a must as well. that should get you at least to the lower 13's if not further.

 

The car how it is now went 14.0 at 98mph with power pulleys, hypertech chip, and k&n.

 

a TC and some slickies...theres a low 13 right there....get some headers port your plenum and afpr and some more free mods and your break the 12's

 

>a TC and some slickies...theres a low 13 right there....get some >headers port your plenum and afpr and some more free mods >and your break the 12's

I dunno about that.


Maybe if his car is really 330HP like his E/T suggests, or he's a lot lighter than the rest of us.

-- Joe

 

ed maher on this board picked up almost 4 tenths with a 3000 stall....he ran a 14.1 with the stall headers runners on a 305 auto in a vert....it can be done...

if tater runs a 14 flat with the stock tc. and street tires....the a 3000 stall and some slickies will put him in the low 13's....add some headers and open up the plenum siamese the base a little and i bet a dollar to a dime hell be in the 12's

 

since when does it take 330 hp to run 14.0 @ 98?

Also, I'd say a good TC and slicks will give about .5 realistically, If the suspension is up to it.

Tater, what was your 60 ft. time on that run?

 

A typical 3500 pound car (and driver), running
a 14.0 e/t, or 98MPH is roughly 325-330 HP at the flywheel.

 

Incorrect...

98mph in a 3500lb vehicle is about 255hp. 330hp is 107mph in a 3500lb car.

 

What formula did you use to figure that one out??
Thats not even close to anything I've ever seen..

 

Formula:

(((mph*.00426)^3)*wt)

This is the standard formula for flywheel corrected HP. It works unless the car goes 200+mph and/or has a lot of downforce at speed. For instance a 3500lb car that runs 109mph is 350hp.

 

Ive always gone by:

hp = weight * (speed / 234)3

For rear wheel horsepower, which for a 109mph 3500
pound car is 350, which is what your calculating
for flywheel horsepower.. Interesting.


-- Joe

 

my 60' time was 2.1

 

Remove the Tuned port, and sell it. Add that to your pocket money

PUll the rear down, put 3.73's in, while it's out, drop the tank, and put a carb pickup in ther.

Pop the heads off the motor you have now, Install vortec heads, With Lt4 springs,and rockers, a Comp XR270 Grind cam. Vortec performer rpm/airgap intake. HEI ignition. 750 holley Vac sec carb.

If you play your cards right and get crap from ebayyou can get the heads, rockers, carb,and ignition for around 500-600 bucks if your patient, hell maybe even the intake.

Get a Carter streetpump, 6psi, 110gph. and while you ahve the trans out to rebuild it, run the fuel lines over to the passenger side for the mechanical fuel pump.

1 5/8 Hookers will work great,

2800-3200 stall covnerter.
Spend money on your trans, cause you will break it if you don't.
New reaction carrier, new sprags, will cost round 180 bucks.


with the tranny rebuild, put together this away, you've still got 400 bucks, + the tuned port crap you sold, so say 600 total, to up grade the suspension accessories, and tools to do it yourself.

If your not driving a land barge, 12.8's are achevieable witout a problem. lighten it up 12.5's.

IF you don't do the trans and rear you will brake them

A th350 new, with a suitable converter would cost the same or less than soupin up the 700R and last longer too

 

Spend some of that money on a decent convertor. 3000 stall or higher, and get some sticky tires.

The convertor itself will put you in the low 13's.

Best bang for the automatic buck.