Glen

I have a 1988 IROC disc break rear end and have mounted a pair of MT sportsman pros and tubes on some stock IROC wheels. When I run at the track I think that they will require open lug nuts. What are you guys running for long studs on the rear? Where did you get them from? How are you guys handling the long bolt requirement?

88 427 Camaro

I used the 1/2 x 3 inch Moroso studs with oversized lug nuts. I had to drill out the stud holes in the axle flange to make it work.

Miles

AlkyIROC

The length of the wheel studs will depend on the rim selection. Rims with very thick center hubs such as Weld DragLite require the longer studs.

The studs only need to extend into the hex portion of the nut equal to the width of the stud. Factory studs are 12mm. They must extend at least 12mm past the outside of the rim or lug nut washer if used.

Since you're using stock rims then stock wheel studs will be fine. Make sure all the wheel nuts are on and they're all tight. If any studs are broken, you won't pass a tech inspection.

When you go through tech inspection, make sure you have a wheel wrench handy just in case they want to check the studs. You'll only need to remove one nut for inspection.

Glen

Thank you both for the comments. I did'nt want to pay my money and then fail tech inspection on test and tune night. Stephen, is it your opinion that I can use lug nuts that are closed on the end, or should I still try to find some that are open so the thread engagement can be seen?

AlkyIROC

As long as there's enough stud sticking through the rims as mentioned above, closed nuts will be fine. Just take a wheel wrench with you to tech inspection in case they want to check.

My wheel nuts are sort of the closed type. They have threaded inserts in the ends to keep the dirt out. Every now and them I have to unscrew the cap off the end so they can check the stud length. Usually only when I go to a new track and they don't know me or the car. Locally I have no problems.

Also look inside the wheel nut to see where the threads start. Some cheap nuts don't start the thread until deeper inside the nut. The stud needs to grab enough thread at least the thickness of the stud.

Glen

Thanks again Stephen.

1982chevycamaroz28

i dont really understand with the lenght of the studs. becuz i plan on gettin the weld draglites and i was under the impression that i could use the factor studs but need to buy the ss/t or what ever lug nuts they suggest from jegs or summit. but how would i go among gettin longer wheel studs if most places carry stock lenght studs. would i have to order them or what?

AlkyIROC

You can do whatever you want on the street but if you take it to a drag strip it will not pass a tech inspection.

The rule states the the stud must protrude into the hex portion of the nut a distance at least the thickness of the stud.

Using long shank nuts to reach into the wheel hub to grab the stud is not legal. Since using Weld Draglites needs special nuts with washers, by the rules, a 1/2" stud must extend at least 1/2" past the face of the washers.

A Draglite rim with it's floating center hub is 1.5" thick. Add in the thickness of the washer of 1/8 to 3/16" and I doubt a factory wheel stud is more than 1" long from the face of the axle. A 2" long stud would be the absolute minimum required for these rims. 3" would be prefered and would never be questioned by a tech inspector.

Since not all wheel nuts are made the same you must make sure the stud is held by enough threads. Some cheaper nuts don't start the threads until well inside the nut.

I use Moroso studs and mag nuts with washers purchased from a local speed shop. Because I use aftermarket axles my studs just screw in from the backside. Converting to longer or larger press in studs may need the axle holes drilled out slightly. I recommend pulling the axles to put them in. Trying to pull the stud through the axles with a wheel nut risks stripping the threads off the stud.