I need some thoughts on this combo.

Have older camaro, 1992 RS. Was 83 year old fathers. He had heart problem and can no longer drive after engine was replaced. now it is bracket car for grandson to drive.

I have not built a car or m/c in long time. Had to keep 305 so old fella not feel bad.

Took rebuilt 305 and replaced bearings and installed high volume /high press pump and ARP rod bolts. Boosted c.r. to 10.4 with smaller chambers and three angle valve job. Added 235 dur@.050 cam w/.520 lift (1.6 roller rockers) and 750 vac. sec holley w/45 power valve (low vac. due to cam). single plane torqer. Stock pump, mallory regulator w/bypass line @7.5 psi to carb. Accel 275 ignition and distributor curve kit to allow more initial timing and later advance operation. 35 degrees total advance @3200 rpm. Hedman long tube headers. Electric fan and water pump. No power steering, s-10 manual box. Replaced 700R4 with TH-350 w/3500 stall converter. 4.10 locker posi with lakewood LCA and adjustable cross bar. Air bags in both springs. Car is gutted, no interior just drivers seat and belt. ratchet shifter and gauges. a/c and heater removed. Amazing how much easier it is to change plugs with all the accessories removed from engine.

Am looking for 26.5 x10x 15 slicks as car does not try to hook at all when tested on street in front of house w 295x 15 tires on 10 inch rims. Rear end does not even wiggle, just lights tires.

Once we perform finish work and purchase slicks/trailer car will be ready for track. Any idea what we can expect given my limited current tuning experience?

 

"Older Camaro"????? That's the "newest 3rd gen"!

How did you go about the smaller chambers part? Shave the heads? What heads? If they are the stock '92 RS 305 heads, the three-angle valve job did next to nothing for you. Those heads are classic boat anchors, and will limit everything else you do. Tell us more about the heads.

The carb is too big. Being vacuum secondary will help some, but a 600 is big enough. And, a 600 DP will be more consistent in bracket racing.

A good dual-plane like Weiand Stealth or Performer RPM will out-perform that old Torker - better low-end and no sacrifice at top end. I'd seriously consider changing that. But, you could get away with it with the loose converter.

When you get a chance to do some tuning at the track, you may find that more total timing coming in sooner will help you.

For traction, get LCA relocation brackets. By lowering the rear LCA mount and increasing the angle of the link, more of the axle twist is translated into upward force on the body. And, Mr. Newton tells us that more upward force on the body means more downward force on the axle. With LCA relocation brackets, I doubt you would need to go to 10" slicks - I found I was quicker with 26x8.5x14's than I was with 26.5x10x15's (on the '57). But, the bigger ones may not hurt you since you're dealing with a lighter car.

Subframe connectors - you didn't mention them. They help protect the body from damage, and will make a difference in launch/handling on the track.

Where will you be running the car? On cooler, less-humid days, I'd think you'll be in the 13's, at least (assuming the heads aren't what I think they are).

 

The heads are milled....Hi-Po z-28 heads w/1.94 intakes and 1.50 exh. Definetly not the screwball swirl port heads that came with it. Those got tossed immediately.

 

Ah, that's good news.

Now, they need to be ported...

 

Ran 8.6795 @ 81+ MPH