Ok, heres where I get a little lost...
Thread Starter
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,225
Likes: 70
From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Ok, heres where I get a little lost...
I understand e/t = pretty much how good you hook up. Trap speed = How much power your making.
I compared one of my time slips with another members L98 on the board.
His 60 ft: 2.27...............Mine 2.28
His e/t: 14.6 .................Mine 14.8
His Trap 93.5mph..........Mine 94mph
With similar 60ft's and my trap .5 higher, how come he is .2 faster?
I compared one of my time slips with another members L98 on the board.
His 60 ft: 2.27...............Mine 2.28
His e/t: 14.6 .................Mine 14.8
His Trap 93.5mph..........Mine 94mph
With similar 60ft's and my trap .5 higher, how come he is .2 faster?
Moderator
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,269
Likes: 170
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Gearing, shift point, wind direction, launch rpm plus many other factors can change an ET.
Your MPH indicates a slightly high HP but that doesn't mean you'll run faster.
When I still had a 383 SBC, I was running 12.0 at 117 mph and 1.7x 60 foot times. Typically a 12.0 car should be around 110 mph and a 117 mph car should be around 11.4. My problem was that I was using 3.27 gears at the time. I was actually slow off the line compared to other 12 second cars but while they were topping out at the end of the 1/4 mile I was just starting to get into the power curve and would blow past them doing the same ET.
You could spin off the line and get a poor 60' time and ET but still run your mph.
Everyone is always concerned about their ET. Ignore the ET and concentrate on the MPH. When you tune an engine for more power, watch the mph of the 1/4 mile. The higher you get it, the more power you have. ET will just come along for the ride. Once you have more power than traction, then start improving driveline, suspension, tires to lower the ET in relation to the MPH.
Your MPH indicates a slightly high HP but that doesn't mean you'll run faster.
When I still had a 383 SBC, I was running 12.0 at 117 mph and 1.7x 60 foot times. Typically a 12.0 car should be around 110 mph and a 117 mph car should be around 11.4. My problem was that I was using 3.27 gears at the time. I was actually slow off the line compared to other 12 second cars but while they were topping out at the end of the 1/4 mile I was just starting to get into the power curve and would blow past them doing the same ET.
You could spin off the line and get a poor 60' time and ET but still run your mph.
Everyone is always concerned about their ET. Ignore the ET and concentrate on the MPH. When you tune an engine for more power, watch the mph of the 1/4 mile. The higher you get it, the more power you have. ET will just come along for the ride. Once you have more power than traction, then start improving driveline, suspension, tires to lower the ET in relation to the MPH.
Last edited by AlkyIROC; Jun 7, 2003 at 10:05 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post