I need some opinions: has anyone done it this way before?

I have a 1991 Formula and want to mount my Optima red top in the trunk. This was my plan....will it work?

Mount the Moroso blue box in the trunk and run the positive lead to the NHRA cutoff switch. From there run 0/1 gauge wire in conduit to the front of the car where the battery originally was (driver side front).

Using a distribution block from MAD electronics (see pic), connect the 0/1 wire from the battery, the original starter wire, a 10 gauge wire from the alternator and the 2 stock small gauge wires from the wiring harness which were originally mounted to the positive terminal.

Would this be good enough to power the starter and charge the battery? Has anyone done it like this before? Should I be adding anything to it?

Fastbird has attached this image:

 

You'll need to run the alternator wire back to the battery side of the switch. Otherwise the motor will keep running when you flip the kill switch.

 

Yeah that I knew about. What gauge should I run?

Really looking for an answer on whether or not the distribution block will be good enough to power the starter.

 

I used 6 guage i believe.

 

i used 2 guage and that is standard for how long it is.

 

2 gauge just for the wire that goes from the alternator to the battery side of the NHRA switch?

I was planning on running 0/1 gauge up to a distribution block and 6 gauge back to the switch for the alternator charge. Next running the existing starter wire that used to go the battery in the front to the distribution block along with the 2 small wires that run the ECM and interior.

 

you just have to make sure that whatever way you run it that the engine will shut off immediately following the switch being thrown. also you can get away with 4 guage wire for the alternator or 8 guage if the length of wire is not excessive. mad enterprises has a nice diagram on their website to show you how to run the wires.

 

Both car/truck I run are set up similiar.

Car: I have 2 ga (welding cable) that runs from + of batt to shut off at back of car. On other side of shut off switch I have 2ga running to the front of the car into a Ford solenoid mounted on the firewall (you can mount it anywhere you please) On the other side of the Ford solenoid (the power out when ignition/start) goes to big post on starter itself. Then I have a 10ga. jumper wire from the big post on starter to the solenoid on the starter. All the other 12volt stuff gets powered off the ford solenoid where the main battery cable feeds into it.

I then ran a 4ga. wire from the alternator output back to the hot side of the shut off switch (side that is battery is directly connected to) I have no electrical issues with this set-up. Car shuts off at the flick of the switch as does all power to the car, and once I installed the 4ga. from alt. to batt. I found I picked up 1.5 volts (originally had 10ga. wire-so voltage drop was huge)

the truck is the same set-up, only exception is the wire from the alternator output goes directly to the battery positive post.

 

What exactly is the Ford solenoid you wrote about? Is it a kind of distribution post or does it do more?

I think I am going to run 4 gauge from the alternator back.

 

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...75&prmenbr=361

Ford was smarter than GM and mounted this solenoid on the fenders of their vehicles to keep heat away from it from exhaust so it does'nt get the common GM heat soak problem since GM mounts their solenoid directly to the starter itself.

Since you r looking at the picture straight on, the big brass post on the left is where the battery positive connects and where you can also hook up other wires that need constant battery juice.

I believe the silver post (left middle) is where the signal wire from the ignition switch hooks onto, when that gets juice it opens the solenoid and allows current to go from battery hot post, through the solenoid and then into the other brass terminal on the right side which goes directly to the big post on the starter.

No more "heat soaked/no starts" with this set-up AND...it makes bumping the engine over alot easier sincenow you can get a hand held push button that hooks onto the constant hot/battery side and then to the ignition switch side of the solenoid allowing you to bump the motor over from the engine bay-really helpful when checking valve lash or other piddly things.

 

Something else I need to do now....lol.

I take it you are using the spare tire hole for mounting the battery? I think I will use the well in the bottom of the trunk for mine as I have a sub mounted in the spare tire well....

 

Yeah, mines in the spare area with some other relays/circuit breakers for fuel pump and amps.

I wanted it hidden since it's an eye sore, so just opposite of ya, I got my amps in the trunk well hidden by the sub box

 

So I am wondering, how much does the necessary 24 feet of 0/1 ga wire weigh, plus cutoff switch, in addition to the 40 lb. red top Optima?

Personally, I bought a 14 pound Genesis gell cell, mounted it in the stock location, and called it good. I'm probably 35 to 40 lb lighter overall, and I dont need any kill switch to stay legal.

I think the time has come in battery technology to consider leaving the battery in the engine compartment. My Genesis battery is only three inches tall, so center of gravity isnt really an issue.

 

It's not about battery technology, it's about weight transfer. Think about it like this, the perfect set up is 50/50, stock they're 60/40 roughly so any little bit to even out the chasis is going to help. A generic way to think about it, that 30 lbs battery up front that gets removed and installed out back is like putting 60lbs in the back of the car during launch.

Generic yes, but hopefully you grasp the concept. 0/1 or 0/2 is overkill IMO, I'm gettin by just fine with 2ga. and everything in the car is literally electric including the 800watt stereo system, never had any problems. The wire is going to weigh a little bit of weight, but it's going to be dispursed throughout the length of the car, not just dumped in one specific spot.