well i just got back from my first trip to the track. my first run was horrible and i only got one run in with the nitrous. right after the run with the nitrous it started porring down rain so we had to leave.i think i could have done better. tell me what you think, these are in the order i ran them:

R/T .726
60' 2.417
330 6.686
1/8 10.144
MPH 70.80
1000 13.138
1/4 15.653
MPH 89.95


R/T .648
60' 2.348
330 6.616
1/8 10.076
MPH 70.84
1000 13.070
1/4 15.584
MPH 90.00


R/T .788
60' 2.485
330 6.692
1/8 10.124
MPH 71.30
1000 13.098
1/4 15.597
MPH 90.61

R/T .539
60' 2.413
330 6.445
1/8 9.592
MPH 78.82
1000 12.253
1/4 14.481
MPH 101.46

i just have a 85 305 TPI with k&ns, ported and poilished heads (416), cam Lift .444/.444, duration @ .050 212/218 lobe separation 114, and a 110 wet shot. oh and i forgot, i had to swap the rear in it as well. it is posi and i was told it is 3.23 (not sure about that tho). My tires are goodyears (255/50 16). i have stock springs with monroe fomula GP shocks.

 

You can do better for sure. Your 60fts are not good at all. Get those down and watch your et drop

 

and how do i do that? this was the first time i had ever been to the track, my cousin told me to hold the brake and get the rpm up as high as it would go without breaking loose the tires (i think it was around 1100rpm). so thats what i did than just mashed down the gas when it hit the last yellow light.

 

Thats the proper way to launch, you must need some better tires.

 

dont mash the gas...........feather into the throttle to keep the tires in traction, and not spin them. that shoud drop 60 foots to 2.0's if not better. and give you bottom 14's if not a high 13 second pass on that spray. cuz i take it, ur last run at 101mph was on the spray?

 

yeah, the last run was on the spray.

 

Well if your stalling up your car and mashing the gas getting 100% traction, and your pulling 2.4's, somethings wrong.

 

no im not getting traction

 

theres your problem... dont got 100% wot on launch. put in as much throttle as you can while maintaining traction
and you'll drop those times

 

well i was planning on that... but i was all sorts of nervous... on my 3rd run i was going to run my nitrous, but i forgot to activate it... but i held the button in for it the whole way down the track!

 

haha yeah, i know

my first few runs i was nervous too and didnt launch hard enough! lol 2.0 60 foots and 14.2's

my first run every time i go out is never a great run LOL

 

so if i had decent 60' times what would i run? also, how much would removing the cat help?

 

why not just buy some sticky tires and some lca relocation brackets and call it done? then you can just mash 100% throttle outta the whole and not worry about it! how do you think i managed some 1.75 60's?

 

well i do have some slicks, but i dont have rims for them. and seeing how my pos rx7 took a crap on me i have to keep the street tires on for now.

 

to me, it's not worth even going to the track unless you can glue the car to the pavement.

 

some ppl dont want a drag only car... i want to run great times on street tires. my car is set up for handling and thats my style. but i also do some drag racing

i'm on 245/16inch street tires and doing 1.88's 60 foots. launch technique makes it possible. some suspension mods and decent sticky street tires will get the job done

my car on slicks would be interesting to see tho....

 

how do you do that? just by feathering the gas? i should be able to do that cause i have 255/16 tires. goodyear eagle something or others.

 

i drive my car everyday of the frickin' week bro. don't tell me it's a drag car only...gets 20mpg on the highway with a 650 double pumper and 4.10's out back. there is NO way you can be competitive without getting all the potential of the car on the track. sticky tires are cool cause they don't care what kind of wheels you put them on. you can stick them on some crappy steelies for all they care cause they will still work just as good as they do on your irocs, or whatever. know what i'm sayin' here? put the tires on before you go, or when you get there...make the car work right, regardless if you want a "street" car.

 

yeah i know what ur saying but how well does ur car handle? can you do 25mph turns at 50mph? thats my point.

ur car is set up more for that direction. 4.10 gears for me would be too much for my driving. i'll stick to 3.27's even if i could benefit from 3.73's or so someday.

i should get a extra set of rims but i dont drag my car that often. and i dont drag it to race in bracket racing... alot of ppl dont. it wouldnt be beneficial to me nor do i want to dump money into something like that. i would love to pick up two iroc wheels with DR's on them if it was very cheap, but its not that big of a deal for me. I just go to see what it does.. i ran my car like 7 times this year and only after mods to see the effect. 7 times a year just doesnt seem to allow an extra set of rims in my case


for my 1.8 60 foots... i stall it up t 2500rpms or so and when the light goes green, i let off the brake and slowly apply gas. i walk into the throttle.. and i can go WOT prettty soon, just after i get it coming off the line decently, then i hit it and it hooks and goes

 

well, people wonder all the time how my car can run consistant 13.0's, making the car work together and getting it all on the track is how.

no, i can't do 25mph turns at 50, but...my 305 nearly lifts the front tires off the ground at the track.

different strokes for different folks, neither one of us is right or wrong in how we build our cars, but!...if you want to see full potential at the track, get a set of sticky tires on there and pull the front sway bar end links to maximize traction/weight transfer.

 

i agree,

ur car is very impressive and does what it does best cuz thats how u set it up.

someday i will get a set of drag radials and see what times i can pull.

and since i race on the street sometimes, what i run in street trim is what counts

 

Sticky tires...end of story. If you want streetabe tires, go Drag Radials. I LOVE mine on my Mustang. I say go with BFG Comp T/A's and although they have less life than Nitto's normally, they hook MUCH better than them.

LCA's. LCA relocation brackets and buy some Drag Radials....you'll be totally streetable and still be able to run at the track. Only reason I havent went slicks is because I want to run the itmes I do on the track and on the street....but i fear I may have to upgrade to ET Streets or some Drag Slicks with my new combo...and thats off the Nitrous!!!

 

try the new et street radials by m/t. they are frickin' awesome! work way better than the bfg's...i know, i've had both!

 

I agree with mw66. I've also had both M/T and BFG and the M/T is far better. I have pulled 1.65 60's on them I also have aome friends with turbo buicks that pull low 1.4's

 

ET Streets obviously hook better....but they suck on the Street. I used a set on my Mustang and their Street manners suck BIG TIME......I love how they hook but to me, they were just a rough tire on the Street and reminded me more of a SLick than a Drag Radial....Only reason Ive stuck with my BFG's for now. BFG's have great street manners and hook the best of all DR's (minus ET streets). My only complaint is once worn in (or out ) they dont do anything but spin in rain. ET Streets are far worse. Nitto's are more rain/street friendly and last logner but hook liek crap compared to ET Streets and BFG's....just my .02 cents.

 

i'm not talking about the ET Street's, i'm talking about the ET Street Radials. these are literally a radial tire and work GREAT on the street and don't have the slick feel when on the street. (you know, that sloppy, bias-ply tire feel). i would not recommend ever driving with them in the rain though. but they were never designed to be driven on the road everyday. i put mine on before i go to the track, beat on the car while i'm there and then take them off after i've driven the car home...but this also has to do with the fact that i've only hear people getting about 8k street miles out of them and i don't want to wear them out on the street when i bought them for the track.

 

So its a true street radial huh? I know MT calls the ET Street a "true street and strip tire"...I called Bs right after driving a car with it, it rode liek crap on the street. Id have to see it firsthand as Im noti mpressed with the ET Streets street manners at all but I love how they dead hook on the track. At this point, Im a bit scared of putting ET Streets on my rather old T-5 as the BFg's lil slip (well probably none now with my new uppers/lowers and shocks) helps keep it laive.....hell the t-5 is the last weak link besides my axles and to be truthful, they'll hold up under the beatings I dish out.

I still suggest BFG's until I try this new ET street out....may just order a set in a few weeks, my BFG's are "worn out"

 

here are some pics of what tire i'm talking about. this is the tire i run at the track, a 275/60/15 M/T ET Street Radial...

 

for the kind of power he's trying to get to the ground you don't need drag radials.

My car pulls 1.91 consistent 60ft times on a well prepped track with my regular street tires. That's getting on the gas hard and no wheel spin.

Here is a pic of my car run a 1.93 60ft

 

I've boxed my LCAs, Panhard bar and reinforced my TQ Arm. Installed everything with polyurethane bushings and had the LCA relocation brackets installed as well. Also have frame connectors.

Dropped my car in stock form running 91-92 MPH and a spinning 2.1-2.3 60ft time to 101 MPH with hooking 1.91-1.94 60ft times. Same track, same tires, considerable more power.

Chassis work really payed off

 

i trap 102mph and have a 1.75 60'. imagine what you'd trap with my 60'!

 

Your torque converter is helping you drop your 60fts down. I would surely benefit greatly from a higher stall torque converter, but then I'd be exceeding the limits of my tires.

But in the original posters case, he has less power than me, so he could get his car to work better with his street tires.

It's all about getting the most out of your car and working efficiently. If your chassis is in order, then when you get more power out of the engine you can put more to the ground.

Just look at the whole package in getting power to the ground, simply going to a stickier tire isn't necessarily the most efficient way to do so.

I'll give you another example

We have a 1978 Trans Am bracket racer.

We went from 12.7@110 mph to 11.75@115 mph by setting up the chassis (torque convertor, roll cage, drag shocks, skinnies in front and light weight rims all around...)

The engine made a little more power too from a head swap, but we knocked off a full second for a 5 mph gain. 60ft went from low 1.8s to mid 1.6, that's 2/10s right there. That was mainly due to chassis work and now the tires come off the ground, albeit only an inch.

 

all this is true, but in most cases track prep is marginal, and all the chassis modifications in the world won't do jack. the sticky tires and relocation brackets for the lca's are the two most beneficial mods. i have a stock torque arm with poly bushings, boxed lca's with rubber bushings, and a spohn panhard rod, with lca relocation brackets. then my m/t's. v6 springs all the way around, no front sway bar (track only) and wore out struts with monroe replacement shocks out back.

oh, and sfc's.

 

I have a TPI 305 with even less done to it than you have. There is alot more in your car. Traction is #1, but porting your TPI can help alot too.