Figured I'd post here because it's more likely to be used for racing than other purposes.

I have a B&M Megashifter to which I added their t-handle with the button, which I used for the line lock. This past weekend, the wire shorted out and melted (I thought I had it in a fused circuit - oops!). The wire is shot right up to the handle.

Is it possible to remove the button so the wire can be replaced? I haven't tried that hard to remove it yet, but I figured if I can get the button out I can rewire it and put it back together. If not, a new handle is in order.

 

Wow hard to say! Were you running it on a relay? I have the same setp and that wire seems like 22 gauge or smaller.

 

No, running it straight to the solenoid. It's about 14 gage.

It was the power wire to the switch that shorted out. It wasn't due to overload during use.

 

Ah roger, I knew you were a smart guy .

 

I had to replace my handle because the threads wore out and it comes apart. The tiny wires had 2 little clips on them to attach to the button. The button is just press fitted into the handle.

 

I was hoping to hear that. I didn't want to start prying on it only to find out it was a twist out, or something like that.

Thanks. I'll give it a try.

 

Bringing back an old dead thread as I searched and found this thread but no real conclusion.

I have the b&m t handle on a proratchet shifter in a 78 vette as well as a megashifter in my 87 firebird. The firebird I use the original b&m momentary switch for a line lock. In the vette I wanted to convert it to a torque converter lockup manual control as I have an issue where it’s locking up in 3rd too causing it to bog the motor when I come to a stop. I’m not gona tear into the trans anytime soon so I used an external switch to verify this is what is happening and I was right. Previous owner also cut the switch wire all the way back to the handle so switch out have to come out to solder on new wires anyways. So this is what I did to convert the b&m momentary to a on off rocker switch.

the momentary pulls right out but it’s difficult. I popped off the button and grabbed the edge of the switch with needlenose and got it out. The hole is two steps the bigger outer is 21mm and the deep inner for the switch body is 15.86mm. The depth of the cavity for the switch to fit in was 28.72mm. I knew I wanted a on/off rocker or push button switch and it had to fit into the 15.86mm hole and have a surface mount larger than 16mm but not bigger than 21mm to fit in the larger hole opening and keep the switch from pushing unit he handle. I found some mini round on/off rocker switches with leads for 3A 250v so figure 3A rating is more than enough for the lockup solenoid. They came in a back of 10 and had a 15mm body and a 16 ish mm surface mount DIA. I got the switches today and got to work. I removed the provided wires and desoldered them and ran my new wire through the handle. Soldered and heat shrinked the new connections and pushed the switch in. It fit like a glove and doesn’t rotate or anything and I had to pull it out once during test fitting and it’s not hard to get out. I put it all together and looks like I can still access the button easily to unlock or lock the converter when coming to a stop. Overall it’s not that bad and I looked for latching pushbuttons originally but could only find 16mm and didn’t love the idea of shaving the button down to fit. This could easily
be done to control a relay for higher amperage but I know that the lockup solenoids take less than 1amp to operate so I’m not worked about it.

Hope this helps someone in the future!