i have a 82 t/a. the car has been lightened a good bit, but added back to it. Im guestimating 3500 lbs. here is the specs.
suspension:
hotchkis sfc's
hotchkis lca's
spohn torque arm

DRIVE TRAIN:
th350 trans
2200 stall <~~~~footbraking, it breaks tire loose at 2200
3.73 gears
275/60/15 M/T ET street radials

engine:
427 bbc
closed chamber large oval port 68' heads rated 96-325hp, 427-390hp (215 casting)
no porting but has had 2.19/1.88 valves installed.
trw .140" domes approx. 10.2-1
edelbrock 454-0 intake
850 barry grant speed demon...
mallory HEI (i know)i dont see better ignition improving hp?
total timing 38* with no preignition on 93.
cam specs
comp xr-292r
solid roller int./660 exh./.666
adv. 292/298
.050 254/260

1 3/4" patriot clipster headers
2 1/2" exhaust throught single chamber flows


time slip: first pass and best of 3, i stalled it to 2000 rpm and ended up with:

r/t: .257
60' 1.965
330 5.495
1/8 8.187 @91.35 mph
1000 10.527
1/4 12.501 @ 116.08

my car is slow off the line.. would a 4000 stall pick up?? i would like to see mid to low 11s some how, just wandering if some tuning and a converter would help? all advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Your current mph should be good for high to mid 11's. Since this was your first trip to the strip with it I'm sure theres more mph left in tuning with just simple jetting and timing changes. A little trial and error can go a long way in tuning.
Your biggest problem right now is the 60' time, you should be able to get down to the 1.4-1.6 60' range with a few changes. You definately need a higher stall converter, probably around 3500-4000rpm. A set of moroso trick springs and 90/10 drag struts would make a huge difference too. With more tuning, a higher stall and some susension changes you should be into atleast the mid 11's or better.

 

That's not your true stall. You either need to find the flash stall speed or use a transbrake to find the real stall speed. You'll never bring the converter up to full stall speed with a foot brake. A converter rated for 3500-3800 would probably work well.

You're spinning off the line. Get rid of those tires and get some real slicks.

What rpm are you shifting at? What rpm are you at when you cross the finish line? You might need to go to 4.10 gears.

You should be able to get 60' times at least in the 1.7x range.

 

ive got coil overs and 90/10 struts up front, and on each pass i had no tire spin, the car just left so slow, could it be over cammeD? i set my shift points for 6k and the car it was getting around to 7k by the time i reacted to the light and the trans shifted. my buddy has it on video, im going to some how upload it! so you can see the run...

 

that tire will work fine, i'm sorry but the slick tire advocates just drive me crazy. the radials have been proven to be far safer on the big end and hook just as well with a properly setup suspension. i've also seen 3-5mph increases on the big end over a comparable slick.

if you do not have lca relocation brackets on the rearend yet, you need them. this will help with the traction issues you'll encounter with the larger converter. i'd imagine that a 3500 stall speed converter would work rather well for what you got.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sqJjfEFGXo

here is my second pass, it sucked off the line, i tried stalling to around 2200 and the tire broke loose, i would hit it from idle but i have a hesistation, and it would just bog..
my third pass i took some pinion angle out, trying to get some tire spin, i set it for -4* and did a lighter burnt out, before i wasnt spinning at all, so i figured some spin might get the rpms up a bit quicker but it just blew em off out to the 330 ft pedaling it... and ran a 14.59

 

Compared to the rest of your combo, probably over cammed.

The XR292R is designed to use a good intake and exhaust. Your intake is fine but your exhaust is small. 1-3/4" header tubes even on a 427 are more of a street header. That's a good size for a real good SBC but small for a BBC.

The cam should be in an engine with at least 11:1 compression and should have a converter with at least 3500 stall. The cam builds power from 3200-7200 rpm. Since the cam wants more stall and is designed for higher rps, more gear should be used.

Are the heads set up to use that much lift? Stock casting heads need work to go over factory lift specs. Are you using valve springs designed for that cam and are they set up so they don't bind at full lift? Are the valve guides cut down so that the underside of the spring retainers don't hit the top of the guides at full lift?

 

ya, the heads have been workd to accept the lift, there is no bind and the guides were cut, that is one thing i made sure of, when it was built i purchesed the cam, springs & retainers together to match.. just curious, if i had a bigger converter how much time could i possibly knock off?? the rear gearing is no problem, all this is on the factory 10 bolt, all it had done was gears and bearing..once i get a real rear end, it probably gonna be a 4.10gear. I ran the BG 850 last night, Ive got a holley hp 750 and a hp 830, any recomendations which would work best?

 

i like the proform 850 if you have to buy a carb. Furthermore, when you hit the converter just off idle at the tree what does the tach jump to? That would be your flash stall. I would imagine a 3500-3800 would help considerably. For instance the stall in my car I can only footbrake to 2500 rpm then the slicks will push the skinnies forward, but when launching the converter flashes to 3900-4100 depending on traction and air quality.

 

like previously said, little over cammed and too low a stall on the converter. and uh matt i seem to remember that all the d/r guys were saying the track was slick before i showed them it hooks lol

 

lol i seen u make that pass last night

 

those must have been the nitto guys. i'm running the mickey thompson et street radials and they work GREAT. i've never ever had a traction problem because of the tires.

 

well i seen this 14.59 run and why does ur car set so high in rear for? but that car look good man and sound mean

 

lol the 14.59 was me pedaling blowing off the right rear, i screwed up, i was hookin the first 2 passes, so i figured i would take some pinion angle out, and less of a burn out, well my wore out posi showed then.. it sucked, but my best of the night was my first pass at a 12.501...

 

new stock springs in the rear, and heavy @SS big block up front, thought about maybe cuttin the rear springs, but i not sure was to do back there.

 

according to your specs, you are running 1-3/4 primaries on your headers. That is WAY to small for that engine. invest in a good set of hooker headers with a 3 inch exhaust. That should really wake up that RAT!

 

the hooker swap headers are 1 3/4". this thing needs a set of Lemon's and a DUAL 3" system.

 

Hooker swaps are 1-7/8". Bigger than those 1-3/4" but still in the street header range. Even a set of Hookers would be better for that 427.