as you can see i have my cell mounted where i'm gonna need a firewall to be fabbed up. if i mount the cell under the area where it is mounted now(under the car) and get an extension for the filler neck and cut a hole in the sheet metal for the neck to stick through and seal it up real good, would that pass inspection seeing i would be adding fuel to the tank from inside the drivers compartment.

 

imo, ditch that thing.

sump your stock gas tank.... what your talking about doing will have no benefits over a stock tank anyways, and your car will be hacked up in doing so. plus, the filler neck will already be there on the side of the car for easy fill ups.

 

Go get a 5gal vertical from jaz products and mount the cell in the trunk

 

i can manage installing it under without hacking up the car, the question is will it pass inspection if the fill tube is inside the drivers compartment. the way i see it the vent is the only thing that will spill fuel if the car turned over, if the tank is under so would be the vent.

this car is also gonna be driven on the street occassionally, and if i stomp on it it sucks down a gallon a gas in 6 seconds, 5 gallons wouldn't get me very far.

 

Is there enough room to mount it underneath when the rear is under full compression?

 

thats a good question, haven't measured anything yet, if it wouldn't then i will be fabricating a rar firewall, but will it pass?

 

this is what i'm talking about, is this legal for the track.

 

why do you want a fuel cell? especially after you said you want to drive the car on the street and 5 gallons wont get you very far.....

and why are you against the stock tank?

 

i ripped the stock tank out long ago, and is somewhere in a land fill. this rci was available cheap and already has a sump with -10an fittings that i need.
whether or not is was a good idea to chunk the stock one is irrelevant, thats the past, i'm trying to figure out how to use this one because this is the present.

 

the NHRA rule book states what is legal for setting up fuel systems, I would order one and read it cover to cover. You need a certain firewall setup, that 2nd pic won't pass without a lid over it of appropriate thickness.

 

i thought about that after i posted that picture, it would work as long as it had a sealed cover over the fill hole, man i don't know, maybe a stick of dynamite would be the best fit for this car, i'll do something with it.

 

your present could be either:

cell- tons of aggevation trying to put it somewhere it will be legal, tons of fabrication trying to rig up a legal firewall and a fill neck.

stock tank- get another stock one, sump it, and run your lines. sell your fuel cell.

 

I agree, If it's a street car why would you even consider a cell? Much more trouble than they're worth. Surely you can find one cheap. Put a new pump in it and use a return regulator.

 

i know that the fabrication of a firewall for the rear of the car will be a hassle, but i can't say that i have ever seen any pictures of anybody having one, so i believe that i'm going to attempt it. i think it will look pretty cool with the car closed off behind the roll bar hoop with the fuel cell, nitrous bottle, battery box, etc.. i know most would definitely be against it, i'll post pictures later on.

and its not gonna be a street car, i just will drive it occasionally around town. thanks for the input everyone.

 

A freind of mine has a cell mounted in the rear with a firewall, but he ordered a custom cell to mount in the rear "trunk" area, so all he had to fab up was a piece of steel and to close off the trunk area to the hatch with a rubber gasket...kinda like door weather stripping.

I agree also, ditch the cell, yeah it was a great deal, but once your done hodge podging that thing together, it wont be such a good deal in the end. Sell that thing, get a brand new tank...like $120 plus a sump $60 install it yourself, just be sure to pressure test with some water first, then wash out with kerosene before installing once it passes....still keeping the weight where it's needed over the rear axle, will give you plenty of fuel capacity, way easier to fill without making the interior of the car smell like gas if you happen to dribble...and you will no matter how careful you think your are/will be, and the best part it bolts right up.

If your cutting a car apart and fabbing a new chasis, that is what these cells are really designed for, but trying to retro fit them into a stock unibody and limited clearances all over the place, your fighting an uphill battle and the end result will still look stupid and be unpractical...you dont wanna hear that, but it's the truth, tiz why all the guys on here that have been there done that are trying to shoot you in the right direction...forget about your good deal ont he cell....most of the times good deals end up costing you more money in the long run.

 

I have a cell kinda like your wanting to do. Here is a pic of it.


Hope that helps out some, and good luck. Check out my cardomain for more pics if you like.

 

my 12 gallon cell, I had to do some cutting and re-forming but it worked







More....

 

if i get a new stock tank and sump it, what do you do with all the junk coming out of the top of that thing, junk meaning electric fuel pump lines, return line, etc.. i have a billet holley hp 140 gph at 7.5 psi mechanical pump going in this car, so i would have what use compression caps on the lines, i can't recall what the top of the tank looks like anymore.

 

A few choices, rubber vacumm plugs with tiny hose clamps to ensure they dont come off, I just cut mine short on both sides, crimped them and welded them shut. All factory lines are now void since you have the sump.

My only advise, think/plan ahead....install a -8 bulkhead fitting on top of the tank and run a pigtail line down the wide of the tank so if SOMEDAY you decided to do the return style reg (you should do it now acutally) it's already there and you wont have to drop the tank to redo it....

 

sump a stock tank, get an electric pump/filter, run a 1/2" or #8 line to the front. put a return style regulator up front, and use the stock feed line for your fuel return.

 

just talked to the wife and told her i wasn't gonna use the fuel cell and needed to buy the same tank that i hacked up and threw away and she gave me that look of death, but i've seen that look before and survived. as far as the fuel lines go my motor requires a -10an from the tank to the pump and a -8an to the double pumper. i've already purchased the pump under the direction of the motor builder, so i won't be going electric pump with regulator and return line, but i do believe that i've been talked into the stock tank though.

 

i take it you went with the mechanical race pump the roundy round guys use?
either way, set this up with a return line going back, seet it up once because who the foock ever wants to go slower???

Once you start getting up there almost every good pump requires a -8 return with a -10 delivery line....set up the tank with the -8 return line off the tank top and run a 16" piece capped off where it's accessable in the future should you step it up...sure you may not need it, but it's there if you do and a heck of alot easier than taking this all back apart again to do it later..

 

to be completely honest, you could have probably gotten away with running a 255 intank pump, and stock lines.... and then just run a carb pressure regulator up front with some modifications and lengths of hose.


put it this way, a 255 pump with stock lines can support a fuel injected supercharged engine to 550+ at the wheels. so 570 flywheel hp in a carb'd application shouldnt be a problem at all.

 

i can't believe that those stock 3/8 lines can deliver that much fuel, i see you (diggler) pulling your front tires, are you using the complete stock delivery system including stock pump, stock 3/8 lines and how many horsepower are you putting down through those little lines?

 

i have a sumped stock tank, a1000 pump, #10 feed line, #8 return line. it was for a turbo motor thats not in the car yet. (will be running 2 a1000 pumps then) but this motor isnt making all that much power.

i know of quite a few cars running stock lines and 255 intank pump putting down 550+ rwhp, though.

 

alright, i went out behind the shed to pull some pipe out for a job i was fix'n to work on and saw my freak'n stock gas tank sitting back there, i guess my helper misunderstood what i wanted to keep and through away and put it back there with the stock hood etc. so i just got back from dropping the tank off to the only shop in the surrounding area that would weld on a tank that had gas in it at one time or another. they said they didn't have time to sump the tank but they could weld two taps for whatever size npt taps that i wanted, so i had them do that at the bottom rear of the tank in the middle. without having the sump in there all that means is that i would be required to run with a few extra gallons of fuel in there or is my thinking wrong.

i'm still gonna stay with the mechanical pump i purchased but at least now i can use the stock sending unit(hope i'm using the correct terminology) for the fuel guage i'm installing.

 

you'll have to run half a tank at least to keep the bottom filled with fluid all the time especially at the launch when it splashes all around. Personally I always fill my car up with gas to the top before race day, so I never have to worry about running out of fuel and the weight is over the rear axle, so it's not like it hurts anything.

 

thanks for the advice on that.

 

I drilled and installed a fitting in my old gas tank and never had a starvation problem with 4 gallons of gas in the tank. I have since removed it and added a fuel cell that is not over the rear end but behind it. The picture is in the 8.50 cage thread in suspension. What nice about a fuel cell is you know exactly how much fule you have evey run. If you are running the Holley 140 black pump you do not need -10 line delivery line. I have never seen so much over exaggeration in fuel delivery in my life as what is on the net. The two carb orfices can only handle so much fuel to be pumped through it. Bigger doesn't mean better just more expensive.

 

Put a small pump on your car then come talk to me...i HAD to install a small pump when my A2000 took a dump on me at a points race, all that was available locally was a holley red...soon as the light turned green psi went from my preset 8.5psi to 3psi the entire run, and well before the 1000' mark she was lean popping and banging, and i lost .3, so had to dial it back the rest of the day....

Is my fuel system overkill-you betcha, but it will handle a engine capable ov putting my tank int he 7's if i had the coin to do it....do i have any troubles now with the new fuel system-nope.

 

i agree, over done is better that under. i'm too new to all this to know if i'm over-doing it, i'm going to be using the same size everything that is used on the break-in and dyno runs once he is done with my motor. i would like to keep the same hp numbers instead of putting it in the car and loosing some power because i decided to go with something different.

 

overkill is the way to go if you have the money, but it is EASY to blow $2,000 on a fuel system. and that is not exaggerating. matter of fact, i probably have more than that if you count the spare fittings i didnt use in a drawer in the shop.
also, it wont affect your hp #'s just by running a larger or different fuel system. all that matters is that you are able to maintain the correct fuel pressure.

 

That is the point, I guess I didn't relate it that well.

 

i can agree with that too, but i think you guys will agree, switching everything to AN fittings is the ONLY way to fly!! costs alot more, but literally everything from fuel, tranny, and brakes in my car is plumbered with AN fittings....no leaks, and repairs are fast if i need to disconnect anything...going so far as to plumb an entire car that way needed-nope, but it sure makes life easier if ya need to crack lines:

 

What he said. AN is the way to go.

 

There's a simple formula for how much fuel needs for an engine. It's measured in pounds per hour not gallons per minute although it can be converted.

Basically you want to see how fast the fuel pump can put 1 gallon into a jug. Good fuel pumps can do it in about 20 seconds or less which is enough for most cars.

As for how much fuel can be delivered, taking the same pump so the amount it's capable of pushing is the same amount, force fuel through a straw. Now force it through a garden hose.

The pump is trying to push the same amount. Through the straw, pressure will be higher but the amount of fuel going through it will be low. Through a garden hose, pressure will be lower but the amount of fuel will be much greater. Since unregulated pumps are capable of 15+ PSI and the carb only needs 6-8, the decreased pressure through a large fuel line isn't noticable.

That's why it's better to use a bypass regulator. Force as much fuel as possible to the regulator and the pump runs at constant unregulated full flow. What the engine doesn't use gets fed back to the tank.

When I was feeding dual alcohol carbs, the line from the tank to the pump then regulator was #10. The float bowls had #8 and the return line from the regulator was #6. The float bowls had very large .150" needle and seats. The fuel cell is mounted up front and I had a BG400 pump. It was probably overkill but I never emptied the float bowls going down the track.

 

i just know what i was told to do as far as my system goes. hopefully it will deliver enough fuel, -10an from the tank to the holley hp 140 gph @ 7.5 psi mechanical pump, then -8an from the pump to the 750 race series proform with mechanical secondaries. does that sound good enough?

 

No. I don't think that HP pump is regulated. You need a regulator between the pump and the carb. You then only need to run #6 lines from the regulator to each float bowl.

 

on the holley site it says that it was not required to have a regulator with only pushing 7.5 psi, is that a bad statement on their part. and the bowls do have -6's to them from the parts i saw at the shop, but he wanted me to run a -8an up to feed both, you know he has one of those fuel lines that connect both bowls into one.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Holley/834184/10002/-1
it's actually 170 gph at 7.5 psi, i though in was a 140 gph model, oops

 

should work....