Quick question for those running rim screws

i currently have weld prostar 15x8's with 26x10.50x15 ET Streets on back. No inner tubes, no scews, no problems. Doesnt leak much at all and seems to work well so far.

Didnt notice any spinning on the rim up to 1.70x 60 foots.

But now i'm gonna be pushing like 150 more whp from the new 383 setup, and wondering if i will need rim screws and/or tubes?

Who runs ET streets with no tubes and screws?

 

mark the rim and see if it spins

 

i really do not advise rim screws if you do not have inner tubes!
get some inner tubes in there covered with baby powder and put 6 screws on the backside of the rim, a star pattern(as even as possible). a wrinkle wall tire will need screws before a drag radial.

 

see i kinda did mark the rim before and noticed no spins. the wheel/tire holds air very well. I ran the et streets on the car for like a month and noticed only 1-2 psi loss. Not bad at all.

I'll just mark it better this year and watch to see what happens.

 

mine where doing it with the drag radails so i put them in. 16 on each side of the wheel. when i put the 29x9 hoosiers on, i just reinstalled them. no problems running them like this yet.

 

if it doesnt spin, you dont need screws.. btw, i run screws on my qtp's without tubes.. if you get more than an inch of spin per run, then its safe to say you might want screws..

 

No I have been 9.70s and do not have rim screws mark the tire you will see it move about 1/2 to 1'' once after thay are mounted after that thay never move.

 

uhh you need to screw both sides of the rim, otherwise the tire can still spin on one side and not the other.

 

A couple of "tricks":

1. When the tires are new and you want to mount them tubeless, coat the insides with dish washing detergent (buy your own bottle, don't steal it from the kitchen ). The Hoosier QTP DOT's that I did that for last spring hold air as good as the set with tubes, which leaked when mounted tubeless (and, had to screw the rims when the tubes were installed).

2. When mounting, put a bead of RTV silicone on each rim bead. It'll hold the tire so screws won't be required, and peals off easily when you de-mount the tire from the rim.

 

Check to see if the tire shop has some sort of bead snot, bascially gets wiped around the tire bead like the lube they use before mounting, but it gets tacky like glue when it's dry. just be sure to mark it so you know if it's working or not.

I've had my QTP's screwed for years, same with the slicks i've run. I've tried tubes on 2 sets of slicks and will never ever use tubes again...PITA, hard to balance, they add ALOT of rotating mass to each tire which will slow you down...i've never had a problem with my screwed tires.

and like mentioned above, do both sides make sure screws are straight across from eachother since most tires when they wrinkle will wrinkle on where the screws are at, and yes, put a dab of clear silicone under the head of the rim screws....i've never needed it since i've only done it once, but it took too long to screw them back in while the tire shop was waiting to balance them..so i quit doing that after the first time.

Hoosiers dont have paper thin sidewalss like M/T slicks so no dish soapping necessary with them, I've never had a problem letting my junk sit and going flat, figure i've averaged 6 sets of slicks per season for the past 6 yrs running modified and another 2 sets the previous 2-3yrs before that, and i think i've done about everything ever mentioned with these stupid tires and figured out, KISS works the best.

 

My Hoosiers were leaking through the tread area. Not a puncture. They lost pressure from the beginning, got intolerable after a few months.

When I put the tubes in, my car actually liked them. Admittedly, this is the back-end-heavier '57.

 

Wow, i already know i typically sound like a hoosier rep most of the time, but with ALL the sets i've ever run over the years, i maybe lose 1-2lbs if it sits all week between races which i dont think is unacceptable by any means...if they go flat flat like the mickey thomson's i tried in the past, that's no good at all, but typically hoosier has a much denser sidewall/tread area.

i wonder, were you running the C05 compound or C07? i tried a set of the C05's yrs ago, but my car was just too heavy and track was too hot for them, and i switched over to use a tire that had the C07 compound, it just needed a slightly longer burnout, but air loss is minimal during the week with them.

 

I put a small smeared layer of RTV on the tires before i had them installed on the rims so i think thats why its holding air as well as my last set, i did the same thing on the old ET streets i had

 

Gads, I don't know. I actually have had 3 sets, the first two lost air during the week between races. The first set was 26.0x9.50-14LT that I got in 2005 - lost about 2-3 psi during the week. 2nd set was 27.0x10.50-15LT, purchased at the beginning of the 2006 season, started leaking through the tread in August, put the tubes in them before heading to Topeka for Div V, ran them all last season as well, still look good for this year. 3rd set was another pair of 26.0x9.50-14LT that I did the dish soap thing to before mounting them at the start of the 2007 season, ran them on the Camaro, don't leak a bit, still look practically new now.

For burn-out, I just get them warm enough to dry them before heading to the start line. Very consistent launch, last longer than with long smoky burn-out.

Orr89RocZ, I've never run screws when mounted tubeless. From what you've said in this thread, I assume you haven't marked them to know whether or not you're slipping now. Another question: What pressure do you run in them, and what do you expect to run in them when you spray?

 

I run Hoosiers too, never had a leaker yet. I have been running tubeless for 4 years. I won't go back to tubes, seems to hold the heat longer. I run 12 screws per side, directly across. It don't take much to pop a tire off, if they do spin on the wheel. It ain't pretty when that happens. I don't put any thing between the tire and the wheel, but if I did it would only be some kind of glue. I have my tires mounted and balanced at the Hoosier dealer, that's about 1 1/2 from my house. Used to get a pretty good deal too, but they don't do that anymore. Darnit.

 

Everybody's got a deal until you get the final invoice I too would looove to find a cheaper supplier, i've tried everybody local and by the time i have to pay state sales tax, it ends up being cheaper to get them through summit/jegs....but now with fuel surcharges on shipping...I can see my $400/month tire habit getting kicked upto $450/month....along with everything else that's increasing. Best deal oi found so far has been through Larry Hodges with Hodges Racing-super stock guy- biggest thing is they are FRESH tires out of the same batch, not the old dried up garbage you get from speed catalogs that have sat on shelves for months.

 

I never actually marked them with a tire marker, but i've taken notice where the MT ET STREET letters were in relation to the valve stem on my rim and they never shifted, or so it looked. I was only going 1.7x's so i dont think thats enough to slip it.

I was running around 17psi and was hooking great. Somedays i ran 15-16psi but i always started with 17-18 hot.

I plan to run the same pressure to start with this year with the 383. On spray if i get to spray this car this year, i again, will start with whatever pressure i hooked at on motor and i hope its around 16-18 psi.

 

The deal I had, wich I can't tell because I promised, was very good. I was going through several sets a season, untill I learned how to do a proper burn out. I have found that the smaller Hoosiers like a little more air pressure. I ran 11 to 13 lbs depending on track tem and prep. I run as little as 7 1/2 now in the 14.5x32s. When I ran a little tired car with pretty much a stock instant center, I had to hit the tire hard to get traction. Went to a larger tire setup and don't hit the tire near as hard, car does a 1.36 to a 1.38 60 ft and leaves real easy. The first time my son drove my car, he came back and said his car was faster, untill he looked at the time slip. His car was running 7.30s or so mine does 6.60s 6.70s@ 14/20 mph faster.

 

The truck i run with the 31x16.5's we've run as little as 5psi (hairey on the big end) and found 7-8psi is a good all around psi. That is a ladder bar set up, and like you said, it's a very boring leave...you launch, the 60's are good, but no violent hit like my car. With all my small tire combo's and the way things are, 10psi is where i need to be at to stay green...anymore and i'm red lighting since tire's just dont wrap enough to kill that few .0? i need...and the car leaves violent, makes ya feel like your really doing something, but the 60's are just the same as the trucks LOL!! I've experienced that with every car i've raced out there, some leave soft but numbers say other wise, other's leave very violent and 60's are slower...funny how that works

 

I agree Josh, mine felt like a turd out of the hole last year until I realized that my 60' was .2 better than cars that felt like a rocket out of the hole. 28x12.50s with 13psi worked fine for me.

 

i just ordered a restall on my torque converter. STR is gonna be higher in the 2.4x range i think but he said it will give me good manners on the street, it will be pretty responsive.

Hopefully my car doesnt feel THAT violent coming out the hole but still runs great 60's. I dont want a real violent feeling car off the line

my old bolt on L98 felt smooth off the line and ppl say it looks like it leaves soft. But the low 1.7 60 foots were showing otherwise. I liked that

 

bringin this back. i marked them the last time out and i did see that i spun the drivers side on the rim about 1.75" but that was on the first pass, the tire pressure was 14 warm which is abit low for me, i run 16 usually. Passenger side spun about an inch

last 2 runs they didnt spin any more

i'm getting 26x11.50's for a good deal so i plan to run them to see if my traction improves. its probly a suspension issue but the nitrous will be here tomorrow and installed before next wed i hope. dont expect the tires to hold that

 

get that roll bar in the car yet?

 

haha naw i'm waiting to buy new interior stuff so i can do it all at once. gonna be another few weeks

 

Not to side track anymore then has already been done but,

A theory to the violent hook/launch
I recently read an article about slicks. Don't remeber the company, but long story short, it said something to the effect they had tires dezigned to spin a little on launch for something like a clutch so it wouldn't bog. Could make for a less violent launch.
It also said for autos it made tires that more or less stuck to the track and weren't supposed to spin at all.

Just a thought.

 

Have you screwed the slicks yet? On my last 3 sets of new rear wheels, I drilled them before any tires were mounted. I have to admit, I was sick feling when I did the first set. BUT, saftey first. Put the screws in um, come on do it.

 

I am running et streets with no tubes and no screws.

I never noticed them spin in the rim but I will mark the rim and rubber the next time at the track to be sure.