When installing AN fittings on braided stainless steel lines you first need to slide the red side in my case over the line then you need to screw the blue side into it. When connecting the two side together of the one fitting do you use any sealant or not because I have seen and heard mixed answers on this. I know on the AN side of the fitting you should only use oil to keep from messing up the threads though. Thanks for the help.

You don't use sealant anywhere with AN fittings.

Thats including teflon tape when mating the fittings together when assembling? I didnt think so but I seen a website that used teflon tape thats why I'm asking. Thanks

You absolutely do not use teflon tape or any other sealer with AN fittings.

the flared end of the AN fitting requires no sealant, it seals like any other flare connection, just by metal on metal. the pipe thread sides need sealant.

the hose end, seals with a taperd nipple swedged into the rubber hose, very good seal, no sealant required but sometimes a little lube on the tapered end of the fitting help things assemble.

the red piece actually screws on the hose, its left handed, then the blue piece screws inside the red piece.

Ive used quite a lot of Jegs house brand AN fittings and hose and it is top quality and very easy to assemble. Its also usually cheaper that earls/Russel/aeroquip ect.

I've never seen one that was threaded, usually they've just got barbs on the inside to keep it from slipping off when you're assembling it.

In my experience, Aeroquip is better than Goodridge is better than Earl's is better than Russell. I've never used any of the house-brand ones, but I'm sure they're made by one of those three.

Whatever Summits fittings are, I did my whole fuel system with AN fittings and the only leaks ive had was from an earl's fuel filter(O-ring was folded in half) and one fitting at my reg needed to be snugged a little more. None of the summit AN fittings were to blame. Also no teflon required.

There's actually a tightening spec for AN fittings, so many 1/6 turns past the initial contact of the tapered surfaces.

Yea im not going to use any sealant or teflon. Quick question how much of a gap is suppose to be between the red and blue piece when put together because I seen a picture of a different brand and there almost touching but I have the summit kind and it has about an 1/8 or so between the two pieces and its getting pretty hard to tighten anymore. what do you think? any pictures of assembled AN especially summit brand would be awesome too. Thanks for the help

Keep going, it's supposed to be hard to tighten it, that's what keeps it from coming apart in use. It's much easier to do if you clamp the sleeve in a vise with aluminum jaws. I forget what the spec is, but I usually do it until there's about a fingernail's thickness between the two.

Yea im using a vise with rubber around the piece which is working good just didnt want to crack or break the fitting. Finger nail? lol 1/16 ? or something? Thanks again

If your fingernails are that thick you might want to get examined by a doctor for nail fungus. It's something more like 1/64".

Ok, actually I looked it up... it's .031", or 1/32"... and it says "your thumbnail is a convenient measuring device".

Best fitting ones i've found is the Aeroquip brand. Earls/Russle brand....if somebody gave me a whole truck load for free, i'd take them and turn'em in for scrap...focking junk and next to impossible to get hose into the female side of the fitting. Have yet to buy a house brand simply because we have a fitting sstore that carries whatever i need in stock.

I've tried all the cutting methods and the latest one that i found to work great, actually tried it about $1K ago in fittings/hoses, but these cable cutters are the stuff. I've cut upto my -10 line with no problem. I just wrap the place i want to cut super tight with electrical tape, cut it in the cable cutter in about 1 second, and get back to putting the fittings together. I'll WD40 the braided hoses exterior, WD40 the inside of the AN sleeve that threads onto the braided line, and then in one smooth push/twist she's home..maybe a few more twists for a full seat. Then i'll WD40 the inside of the rubber line, WD40 the male end and commence threading them together until they almost touch. Spray brake clean down the hose, blast with air, wipe'er down and install.

There is no one part of my car that is not AN fitting/line, brake system, fuel system, tranny....cooling is factory stuff, but if you can get over the inital cost shock of what it takes, once you've gone AN, you'll never go back to anything else...this stuff is amazing!!!!!

+1

Alright ive been working on fuel lines all night and almost all of them get down pretty close to each other but I have two which are the first two I started with that are about 1/8 inch or maybe a little less apart and I have put a good amount of force so im not sure if I should just leave them or try and fix them? Is it a pain to pull the line back off after you tighten it down and do it over? Thanks

O yea ill probably post pictures tomorrow if you need a visual because my damn girlfreind has the digital camera so I cant post them right now. lol

A bit. You're going to end up wasting a few inches of hose that you'll have to trim from the end.

You should be able to get them touching, or right up to. I think a couple of my fittings were not up against each other but were close you should be fine if they are that snug. Sometimes it can be difficult but i did it the same way you are describing with a vice, just make sure you use wd40. Ill take a pic of a few of mine when i'm under the car tomorrow.

Alright I went back out and took the two apart I couldnt get tight enough. I checked the hose and it looked fine so I used more lube like I did on the ones that fit nicely and didnt press the hose to tight against the top threads when I started putting the male in. Seems like it worked and I didnt have to cut any hose. Is it suggested to cut the hose if you take it out? The hose seemed fine when I looked at it so I wouldnt see why there would be a problem. Hopefully all is well. I checked gaps with a spark plug gapper and its right around .030 like stated above. I was nervous about working on AN fitting because everyone hyped it all up to be such a pain. Besides the two that I did that wouldnt close up enough all else went smoothly. Even fixing them wasnt that hard. I love the look and hopefully the performance of these AN lines if I did it right. I will never go back to anything else. Thanks again.

If it was just a matter of unscrewing the fitting part from the sleeve and putting it back on, that's no problem. I thought you meant you wanted to take the sleeve off the line.

Nope just unscrewed the male and screwed it back in with more lube and I also put it a hair away from the threads the male threads into on the sleeve. These two little things seemed to work out just great. I dont know if the line was to far up and interfering with the threads or it just wasnt lubed enough but im glad its fixed and it looks nice I'll hopefully post some pics tomorrow. Thanks for everyones help!

It's an expensive jump, but like you just found out...almost impossible to do anythiing else after you've worked with them. takes a lil more work assembling them, but everything is customer length so it works better, any future disconnects/connects you know will never leak and be easy as pie...I kinda cheated though, the fuel lines coming off my tank upto a point just behind the firewall i cheaped out...it was a $623 dollar saving to be exact...but i used that rubber push-lok hose/connections and then just before a guy can see it, i switched it over to braided lines. serves the same purpose and looks better...just sucks sicne now i have a huuuuge spaghetti mess of braided lines under the hood since i just got done hooking some laughing gas up tonight.

Yea I actually enjoyed working with it because it is so tailored to what you want and nice to know there wont be leaks either. It is expensive but I have found out cutting corners and cheaping out in my personal experience has come back to bit me in the butt so im pretty much done with that lol I have so much wasted money just because I cheaped out in the first place! Its not a bad things to have to many lines especially if your getting some added HPs out of them. How much you going to spray if you dont mind me asking? and what type of nitrous setup you go with? Looking for the 9's now?

As the old adage goes and i tell my potential clients, "the only people that can afford to be cheap are rich people....they can afford to do it twice" it's a hard long lesson learned for many of us, esspecially in the beginning working on shoe string budgets, but i found it's worth the wait to do it as right as possible the first time..nothing will ever be perfect, they're cars, but you know what i'm getting at.

I just got a basic NX kit from a buddy that won a huge race series locally, he recieved $16,000 of free stuff from major manufacturers, and one of his freebies was the NX mainline kit. I wanted the stage 6, but never fully intended to go all out, i just wanted a tickle toy so to speak. I got it jetted for a 150hp shot, ET i dont care, we have our night of fire coming up, and i would really like to bumper drag for a ways...hope to break the car, get a good picture of it/video of it, and then get back to focusing on work...this car is a major distraction LOL!! It's been working extremely well this year and factor out cost of building, it's actually money ahead this year with cost of racing and racing expenses-fuel, hotels, entries...i hate to mess with it, but i want my bumper picture dang it!!!! if dumb f...k would'nt have messed up my heads and installed a POS cam when he rebuilt it, i would'nt ahve need the shot of juice.

but my goal has always been running 10's on pump gas through the mufflers in street trim in a small block, which it's been doing for awhile, now i would like to be able to juice that same combination into the 9's...even a 9.99 would make me happy, but it has to be muffled and pump gas, anything less will suck

AN stuff is very nice to work with, once all your lines are made up lol I did my fuel system couple years ago and it was just under 1k including pump, filter, hardline, braided line and all the fittings. The only leak was the brand new pump, traded that for a new one and not a single leak in the system, been like that since.

IHI, are you running the big $$$ race at CDP this weekend????

We had everything set to go, car is now ready, babysitter lined up for the weekend since we were gonna tow down tomorrow night (friday night) so we could settle in before the big day Sat., but I've been watching the forecast all week for that area and i'm not up to dumping the $500 i figure it'd take in fuel, eats, entry fee on a 50/50 chance of rain. Should it have been a blue bird weekend, I'da been there in a heartbeat, cars running great and i know we'd give them boys a run for their money, but it's just too far to risk with fuel being as high as it is.

On the flip side, i'm sure car count will be down a bit since many will probably think the same way i am based on car counts at the different tracks this year with possible bad weather, so it'll cut down on number of rounds to complete which will be a good thing. at least they're not doing buy backs, that will save a bunch of time!!!! Consey race $70 to enter $2500 to win...dont think so, way to many rounds to go, so breaking even would be a wash if a guy took it home from around my area...$500 inital cost for big race, $70 to enter consey, more tire wear, more fuel..and to get any money you have to win. last world series i went 7 rounds, got down to the final 7 cars, and they gave me a check for $75 I started laughing and asked if this was right, she counted the rounds and said yep. Honestly I was in motion to give it back and tell them to stick it in their az. but kept it to buy beer instead LOL!!! That's the only problem with top heavy payouts, round money is a joke.

EDIT:
Just checked, 40% chance heavy rain friday night, 70% chance heavy rain Saturday, 40% chance rain Sunday
Check it Out
I dont like those odds, and i cant stick around monday since with all this tornado/flood damage on top of our regualr work load, i have to work monday through fridays

I'm trying to watch the weather and decide if I'm going to pull the trigger and go or not now, car isn't running good enough for the big $$, but I'll give em a run in the 11.0 & slower class they are having, that plus the car seriously needs some test time so we are going up on friday.

Yeah I've heard the series payout isn't the greatest, but, I have a fun time anyway so I'll keep going.

I'll let you know how the car count goes, could pull some guys from a decent range for the $$ they are putting up, but, like you said with the price of fuel, it will be hard to tell.

If it was closer i'd be there...just like if they had it at a track within an hour to hour and a half, i'd be there no question since i know full and well, there's a bunch of guys like me wanting to be there, but know what the cost will be with chance of rain..not worth the chance..so the guys that do come-mostly locals i'd say, will have an easy day with minimal rounds.

tested the juicey juice out awhile ago...anxioous to get it on a race track and see if it'll stick first gear..if so, i'm in big trouble LOL!!! nice lil kick when it hits.

I have a quick question about the NPT side of the AN fitting. When installing them into fuelpump, regulator, filter, etc they screw about half way or a little more and get really tight and it seems like this on all of the different components. I bought a 3/8 NPT plug just to run through the threads to make sure they were fine and it seems good but same problem cant get it all the way in. Are they tapered or something? Is this usual? It gets tight enough so im not sure if there would be any problem with it sealing or not. Also what type of sealant do you guys use for these ? I have some permatex thread sealant I believe would this be fine? Thanks for the help guys.

Yes, pipe threads are tapered and you need to use sealant on them. Liquid teflon works well.

would you happen to know if the permatex thread sealant is teflon based? Thanks

I just looked it up and I have the permatex high temperature thread sealer and they have another one that is a high performance sealer. They both have under application fuel fittings but the high performance one says its for tapered pipe threads in the summary. Should I by the high performance one or stick with what I have? Thanks again

It should be fine.