i was going the to nos my iroc but instead i want to just make it hook! Stock suspention 1990 iroc z its got the good rearend option i dont know how to find out if its the aluminum driveshaft i have heard about.... so my 60' was 2.297 what should i do in order to aniiialate that time without going into motor mods.......and anyone who reads this and has for sale some of the parts that i need shoot me a pm and this should be real easy! thanx!

 

first try better tires...drag radials

Go up and stage the car, brake down hard and press on the gas alittle to bring rpms up alittle. Called brake stalling. Probly wont get the rpms up as much with stock converter but it should help.

light goes green, you mash it. try that and then try leaving off idle. Let it stage and light go green, stomp on it from a dead idle in gear. May like that better but my car always liked brake stalling

you could start doing suspension bolt ons. Get new LCA's and brackets. Try 1 hole down on the brackets to lower the LCA down and get traction that way. May or may not help but you really need tires before any of the other stuff will help

Stock suspension is pretty good for a mild motor car. I'd get tires first then see what the car does once it hooks.


Once you get tires you can look into a torque converter with higher stall speed. something in the 2500-2800 range will be perfect. Match that with 3.42 gears you will have a mid high 13 second car

 

i use the brake stall launch already at just above idle....shouldnt my car alreadyhave 342's being a 350 700r4 car with the G92 rearend option?

 

nope, it should have 3.23's which isnt bad for L98 cars but 3.42's are best

 

Tires are all you need... These cars hook pretty well with the factory suspension.

 

Drag radials before anything. Then, take it to the track and see how it performs. Then decide if you need more mods to help your 60'.

REMEMBER: You can effectively change overall gear ratio just by changing tire diameter.

 

so should i do a 15'' rear tire with radials bc i want to buy another set of wheels and mount the drag radials onthem so i can get some life out of the radials i buy, but should i change the size of the rims and go smaller to get the gear ratio effect,? and also what is a good radial and are there any that i should stay away from bc of poor quality

 

[quote=Orr89RocZ;3873202]first try better tires...drag radials

light goes green, you mash it. try that and then try leaving off idle. Let it stage and light go green, stomp on it from a dead idle in gear. May like that better but my car always liked brake stalling


I say spray it, stall it a little... & if you want to win..leave on the 3rd yellow, if you see green, you waited too long.

 

well on a test and tune night you dont need to work on reaction time but you can if you like. 3rd yellow works well

i would work on getting that car to leave the line consistantly and then get it to go good reaction times

 

The best I could muster on regular street tires with my 91' was in the mid 2.2 range. Orlando is a pretty greasy track for street radials. I picked up a set if used BFG drag radials, BMR LCA's, and some bolt in relocation brackets. I pitched my front sway bar and was rewarded with a 1.916 60'.

I didn't really do much to add power (hacked air boxes, !cats, !smog pump, Magnaflow muffler), and my ET dropped from 14.4 to 13.9 in the 1/4. My MPH only went up about .4 - .5 at best.

I have no traction problems at this power level, and my drag radials are about done. The car is very consistent and predictable. As for concerns of driving w/o a front sway bar... I have been driving it like that daily to & from work for almost a year and a half. It drives fine, people who say otherwise have an over sensitive *** IMO.

Take it FWIW, but basically I spent $175 on some used parts and knocked .5 off my ET.