heres the deal, me and good friend decided to have build off, I've got an 82 t/a, th350, moser 9" 4.10 gears,(he has a 92 rs stock rearend +3.73,posi,and t56trans) (both cars have empty engine bay currently) we both went to pull-a-part and pulled 2 what we thought were identical motors, they both came out of 92-95 1500 pickups, casting numbers unknown at the time due to grease build up, he ended up with a roller 305(I didnt think 1500s cam roller), I've got a flat tappet 305... we said from the get go, what ever we get in 1 try is what we get. our budget is 2k, to start, I've got $1910 left, payed $90 for the block, we tore them down, both appear to be in good condition, his needs boring, mine has no ridge in cylinders... its gonna be 3 test passes and 2 of 3 drag race..

What I've come up with:
I found some 906 vortecs for $150 locally,
i found aset of flat top pistons on ebay for 69.00, brand unknown
comp cam k kit- hyd profile- specs .501" 244* .050 single pattern $359
professional products hurricane intake $189 for vortec heads
holley 650hp mech. secondaries $501
summit brand headers $89
this alone will leave me with around $450 after what little taxes and shipping.

the winner to this will get to have both motors to do what they please, Im prob gonnna tear em down and ebay it all off to get mine $$$ back.. if i win.

so help me out if you see something better than can be done, and help me spend the remaining $450 on something useful.

 

STOP get the hedman longtubes not the summit shorties they suck. that hurricane intake is huge too. you're gonna kill all the torque with that. I would try to find a used nitrous system and spray the wee out of it. most of all have fun and keep us posted. pics of the car too lol

 

totally agree. if its useable, leave the shortblock alone. put some vortecs on it, dirt cheap ~220-230 duration cam, and whatever aftermarket intake you can get for cheap. steel shim headgaskets and deck the block to get some compression in it (if its already apart) i would run the cheapest 1 5/8 longtubes i could get my hands on.

stuff you should TRY to budget for, imo....
26" et drags or et streets on the stock wheels (or whatevers on it now)
jw 3600 converter (thats what im using and it works great on the juice)
nos cheater kit and a good sized fuel pump
moroso trick front springs
jegster torque arm
cheapo drag shocks up front or maybe even drill the shocks that are on there
airbag in the rear

i think with this stuff alone the car could go low 7's in the 1/8 with a 150 shot. lmao.

 

i'm with brandon! STOP!

the vortecs are good, but they need to be milled, and guides clearanced for the bigger lift.

proform makes a more affordable carb with just as much infinite adjustment

i second the hedman longtubes, spend a little more on them and get longtubes, get you some hedman "x-tensions" and a universal x-pipe and call it good, mufflers are not needed, but the x-pipe will help with scavenging.

try to score a performer rpm or victor jr. for the vortec heads, try ebay and racingjunk.com as well as smallblockposse.com and yellowbullet.com

if you're spending the money on a cam kit, go ahead and do some real research and spend the money correctly. i'll go ahead and give you the specs to the cam i was gonna run in my 305 but never got to it, and yes, it's a solid flat tappet, and no i don't think you should run a hydraulic cam in this situation:

comp cams part number: 12-648-5

270*/280* advertised
240*/246* @ .050, this cam has REALLY quick ramp rates
.510"/.519" lift
108 lsa

you can use an isky 235D spring with that, which is a stock diameter spring, and mill the heads for the most c/r possible, this cam will want compression.

what converter are you gonna run?

between that combo and the fact that your auto and he's manual, i think it'll be a walk in the park for you...

 

I agree with the rest about the exhaust....also if possible get rid of the quadrajet carb..its junk. you should be able to get a cheap 650cfm holley off of e-bay or racejunk.com.....GOOD LUCK.

 

For power on a budget you have two important things, cubes and compression. You may be stuck with 305 cubic inches but if you want it to run good pump it up to 13;1 compression.
Roller cams make good power, but for power per dollar, go with a race ground solid flat tappet, It wont quite make up for a hydraulic roller but it will be close and leave you with enough dough to get that compression you need badly.
If you go with a decent cam, good compression, and a good converter and gear, than you should use a single plane intake if the price is right, but you can find used dual planes for 50 bucks, so that would probably be money well spent.
As far as heads go, good flow does not mean much without good compression, so I would buy 305 vortecs, you should be able to get these dirt cheap, and the boost in compression will more than make up for any loss in flow.
I would pass on the pistons, you really need a decent dome to make good and cheap horsepower.The pistons will cost around 300 bucks, but the compression is money well spent, and I think you can save near this amount on a solid cam vs. hy. roller.
hy. roller cams are great for maintanance free performance, and make more power than a hy. flat. But they are not designed for a cheap race motor. The roller cams that really make power is solid roller, but that can get expensive.You can get a race solid flat tappet cam that will make nearly as much power as hy. roller for tons less dough.I have ran some of the elgin race cams and they seem to make good power, and they are dirt cheap, call competition products for more info.
Dont try to mill heads excessively to get good compression, first, it is nearly as expensive as new pistons by the time you angle mill them to make any signicant compression increase, and milled chambers hurt cylinder head flow, and you will throw off your intake mounting angle,so the intake will need remachined to correct this.you will spend tons less using 305 heads. They will not require extensive machining for good compression, they will be super cheap to buy, and still flow well.

 

The cam I would run is from comp. products. elgin part #e1131
It has a duration @ .050 of 240 intake. 250 exhaust,282/292 advertised and 521/521 lift, this is a little big, but if you go for the compression and a big converter I think it will run well. It only cost 63.00$ and they have many bigger and smaller sizes available.
The pistons are kieth black part #kb144, they have a .100 dome, and cost 282.95 thru cnc-motorsports.com. they will still only yield up to 11:1 compression, but it is hard to make compresson with such a small motor.

 

I wouldn't worry about all this, get some nitrous and hit it.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...56953&viewitem=
maybe this??

i'll get some pictures up asap! basically my car has
spohn torque arm
lakewood 90/10struts with spohn coil overs
lca relocators
th350 neal chance 2500 stall converter
sphon sfcs'
4 point roll cage, jegs brand, the cheap .134" ERW
275/60/15 et streets..
my buddy basically has close to the same set up, except he's got the 6 speed!!

I found that, kit, maybe keep the motor stock, found a barry grant 850 blow through for $550 and i'll basically be at my budget..

 

no those kits don't work at all don't bother buying it

 

rule #1 when wanting to build a fast 305...listen to mw and xpndbl3. LOL. sounds like the chassis is pretty good. another one to say go solid cam, yes it's harder to do, but its worth it. another option with juice is finding some 081 heads and do some bowl cleanup and throw them on. with some domes the compression would be high, put that with a victor jr, a good sized solid cam, and a hit of nitrous, and you're gonna be low 12s. the auto may not be as fun, but its a definite advantage. keep us updated

 

i agree with steve on this one. spray it 200 to 250, adjust timing and fuel and have at it.

 

i used to go 11.60s on a 150 shot in my old 305

skip spending big bucks, simple cam, single plane ie vic jr, 750dp, 3600+ stall, 3.73s, 26" slicks, lighten the car. you're there.

 

if you spray right out of the hole i want to see pics of that 305 yankin the front wheels

 

yup. this is the best option by FAR. dont waste money on expensive motor parts. spray it with good fuel, and shift it by 6k or so, and the bottom end should hold together.

 

You can get a used dp holley for around 150 so that would save you 350 right there.

 

well, I've got my motor together now, I was donated a set of 062 vortecs ..... I went with hyd. roller, found a deal on ebay, came with roller lifters, spyder tray, pushrods retainters and front retainer for $90 I bought a comp xtreme energy 288, its 520/540 lift 236/242 @ .050, i cut the spring seats to fit the new srpings and machined down the guides to clear the lift, just used comp cams cutters, pretty simple. Im $250 deep in the cam, and $180 deep in the springs, retainers, locks.. I got a set of keith black .100" dome pistons, $299, the machine shop pressed em on for $40 cut .080" off the heads, im looking at about 11.0-1, got a heck of a deal on a prof. products crosswind intake polished for $100 from the machine shop. my only question now, is i didnt think about balancing... i left the crank in the motor, just popped the rods and pistons out, once i got them done i reassembled... maybe not a prob??? I thought i had some valve to piston intereference becuase the first check, the valve pinched off my clay.. checked again and have about .120" clearance.. any idea of horsepower?? we originally had a 2K no holds barred limit.. meaing anything goes, but decided that it has to be naturally aspirated... we both had the nitrous idea, but theres not much fun in who built a better motor?? more less who used bigger pills.

throw me out a hp and e.t. number,
Ill get pics of the motor up as soon as wife gets home with camera

 

13.0 at 102

 

seriously?? i was thinking 14s
my horsepower guess is a long the lines of 315??


is it a bad combo??

 

gut the car, lighter is better. I think you spent money where I wouldn't have but alright. Would have gone more compression as well and just use it as a race gas motor. Not the combo I would have built but you didn't want to listen to my suggestions since you changed the rules to no nitrous.

 

dont forget to take your front sway bar off and relocate the battery in the hatch. if your only racing for 3 races and nothing more i would get the comp 294s cam 248 at .050 and a good loose converter so 3500- 4000 and the lightest pistons and rods you can find. balancing with 3 races and only 2k at stake is probly better left out, you should be ok, and even better if the piston are close to the stock piston wieght. then work on traction. wieght transfer wheels tires, sub frame conestors, aluminum drive shaft, move all the wieght back as far as you cam radiator, engine, ect.

 

that cam is large x huge for a 305. its big in a 350

 

that cam is fine if he has a huge stall and plans to wing the motor up in the rpm range

 

wish only a 2500 stall its gonna be a little doggy, my buddies car with vortecs and that cam would like a 4000. just let it eat and see what happens lol

 

it should be an easy race to win, if your friend has slicks and a stock 10 bolt with a t-56 it shouldnt take long for the rear to break it he trys to bring it out hole hard, if i launched mine above 3,000 with the slicks i broke either the ring gear or the posi everytime

 

any updates?

 

Nothing wrong with a Q-Jet if you build it right. My car is faster with the Q-jet than it ever was when I bracket raced with a Holley. Get a set of adjustable drag shocks for the rear and put them on the stiffest setting.