Well, got everything assembled, going to call and confirm my dyno session for Friday, tomorrow a.m., got to go and pick up some 110 to go along with my jug of 93 so we can wringe out the pump gas first. I think we have this figured back out now that i had the time to get my hands dirty like i did before instead of trusting the shops that screwed me over and took power away from me:headbash:issed: So we'll see what happens, i'll post up the numbers once i get them back, but i'm predicting (if all goes well)

650hp @ 6600 rpm
615tq @ 5400 rpm

hopeing that's low, but we'll see, dyno's are like race tracks when you pick up your first time slip after major mods...often times your disappointed, but as long as it's faster than last year (which is HAS to be) i'll be happy:cheers:

 

sexy motor cant wait to see dyno times.

 

Had this POS broken apart in different states too many times over the past 3 years to warrant painting it, so this is the first official time it's had paint in 3 yrs, so i decided to go chebbie orange instead of black like it kind of was...maybe that was the problem.

 

hope to see you down here in eddyville, did you see the contingency program? anyway, i'll hopefully be bringing my junk up there for a race or so just to check out the track and run some quarter.

 

We'll be down there this season again, how many times, we'll see, just depends on our work load, and what not for the off points weekend here at home.

The contingency looks really good, but i'm not going to be sticking their stickers all over my junk unless i have my decal guy just print me out a small wrap with all their names on it so it's a one sticker install vs all that small stuff...kinda like nascar and nhra bodies. I did the magnet thing with them before and my own company stuff, but magnetic's are a PITA, gotta tape the leading edges since they like to fly off at 120+, and when storing, they have to be stored perfectly flat on a smooth sruface otherwise they pick up any shapes you set them on and lose adhesion because of it.

 

yeah, i'm struggling with kind of the same issue, gotta figure out how i'd put all the stuff on the car. i MIGHT be throwing together a 355 for this year, but money's gotta go other places since the motor will run. needs some fresh headers and motor mounts

 

Holy carb spacers!!! Only kidding Looks great I think your biggest power loss was due to the cam not beeing degreed in may also affect the abilaty to run pump fuel also. And yes I know the middle spacer is his plate system this is for the other funny people.

 

The past two times when we dynoed i made the most usable/smoothest power with the 2" open spacer i used to run, then add the plate system and carb flange thickness the studs are pretty long. Once I had my intake ported he custom milled the 1" aluminum spacer so i was taking full advantage of the now hugely opened plenum under the carb, and the 1" will buy me some under hood clearance vs the 2" i used to run. The additional black 1" spacer you see under the lifting plate is just a spacer block to make up the difference on the unthreaded area of the studs until we get up there and start messing around with different things, so once i find optimum spacer size/configuration i'll adjust stud size accordingly...but yeah, for now it looks crazy LOL!! shipping purposes only for now

 

Looks good, with those spacers you wont see if the carb catches fire, looks like it will above eye level.. j/k. Good luck, it will be fun. Wish I was rich enough to have a private dyno session Got far to many other things to spend money on first, maybe someday. Should be stout.

 

lookin good, good luck

why do you have the nitrous plate above your spacer?

 

It would look better if the block was painted pink like mine!

 

I got mega length studs on there since i ran a 2" spacer, and then the 1/2" nitrous plate, add in the carb base plate thickness, plus my throttle/nitrous solenoid bracket and all the gaskets...it was tall. So right now that spacer on the top is doing nothign more than taking up stud space since they're not threaded all the way down, and i did'nt feel like stacking nutz to make up the difference since the spacer has just been in my tool box for 6 years LOL!! Plus we're going to try different spacers and such so this way i can do whatever, and once we finalize the best combination i'll change studs accordingly.

87TA- We dynoed my uncles 383 yrs ago, and since that day i told myself, nothing will go between my fenders until i strap it to a pump first. You learn waaaay too much, waaaay to fast vs the old tuning at the track BS. There are so many times the smallest change here will net you 8hp, then you change soemthing else and find another 6hp, change this or that and find 11hp....you simply will not see these minute gains/losses on a race track since we always chaulk it upto, "oh the wind died down/picked up/changed direction, oh i missed the shift +/- 100-200rpm, I did'nt stage in exactly the same spot as last time, etc.....just tooo many variables in the car to ever think you'll find these small increases. Easily the best $325 you'll ever spend, you'll be darn close to the final tune once you drop it in the car...i take all dyno stuff with a grain of salt final number wise and wait for ET slips to back them up...but it's worth the time and money fo sho.

 

i wasn't clear enough and read about the top spacer the first go around and its use so i apologize for that, i'm talking about the bottom one and the nitrous plate (ignore the top one), why is the bottom spacer underneath the nitrous plate instead of ontop?

 

I guess i did'nt realize that made any difference where the n2o plate was located. Last year with the 2" spacer i had it mounted under the carb on top of the 2" spacer. I had the intake ported, the guy then custom milled that bottom aluminum spacer to the exact size of the new plenum opening so i just wanted to keep as much open area into the plenum as possible is why i stacked it that way. I have no idea if it affects how the nitrous hits/runs since i never swapped them out, and for the dyno i'm not running the juice, just the engine but now that you bring this up i'll ask and will swap plates around just to see if it has any effect on performance at all, but like i said, i wanted the spacer down there since it's milled to the new plenum so i wanted to keep that as wide open as possible to take full advantage of the increased opening.

 

I did it that way first too , should hit harder on the bottom but from what i understand it's more of a distribution thing than anything else because of how the spray bars "shoot" into the ports. Also, since you're not testing the jug on your motor dyno, if it does make more power the way you have it set up now on nuts it certainly doesn't mean it will also make more power set up that way on the kit. You're a very intelligent guy and i'm sure you already know that (just said it cuz things slipping our minds happens to all of us), i know i've asked for your opinion on many a matter and know you're very knowledgeable. Your call chief, keep us updated

 

...I'm prediciting 375hp...and if so he'll throw it so hard it will land in one of our driveways......
j/k - good luck tomorrow man.

This past Sunday was the first time I've had my own **** strapped down. I now must say I agree with you on the dyno thing, but I like the chassis dyno. That way you see what the motor likes while pulling it's intended driveline.

 

Your brutal...just f..kin brutal

I must of had an idiot chasis dyno operator/shop because when i strapped mine down the numbers were all bogus and i learned nothing other than there is a reason you never see "race cars" on them. I remember the sheet said i recorded over 700+ ft/lb tq at the tire with my old 388 ahh, sure i did.

Once you start putting them on the pump all alone it really sells itself as a no brainer, there is sooooo much information you can learn from them, and i am continually dumbfounded by all the little things you can change/do that pick up a little here and a little there...stuff you will never see on a race track in the individual gains, but after being on a pump in a controlled environment, you start adding up all the little things and before you know it you picked up a ton.

You know as well as I or anybody else, the number you get are always jaded and the timeslip is the ultimate say so, but it really give you a large step ahead of the game.

 

700ftlbs? definitely had a minor glitch there.....

I learned real fast that the little 468 has a lot more signal through the Brodix heads than it did the Darts. I took 4 jet sizes away from it and it still pegged the wideband rich from the moment he tipped into the throttle, but it picked up 20rwhp. - 401rwhp, you better recognize! - I fully feel that dynos are great tuning tools, but there's a definitely reason as to why we don't race them.

 

FO SHIZZLE MY NIZZLE, Dat sheot be bring'n da thunda fo sho!!!

The dobber that owned this shop i strapped the car onto was going bonkers, "oh my god, oh my god, WTF do you run in that thing, oh my god lemme add up the numbers and see what the engine is making" by now my buddy walked over and said rolling his eye's, dont even bother making another pull, this thing is a focking joke and he told me the numbers and i started laughing, so i just winked at my buddy and said, we'll just play along with him. So owner of the shop does his caluclator thing, jumps out of his chair, "oh my god man, that thing is a beast it's making more torque than my diesel guys do at the same rpm they do, i cant believe this...and you said it's pump gas??" so i shook my head, yep, 91 octane but this thing does have a 3/4 race cam so maybe that's why it runs so good.

it was comical for sure, but a waste of my $50....it gave us soemthing to do to kill time though, like i said, we were a day ahead of schedule going to the track intentionally so we could fart around like this and not be pressed for time.

 

I've spent more to go to comedy clubs and not had as much fun. Maybe he was so busy peeing his pants he forgot to hit the load switch? - I've heard about those 3/4 race cams. Them some bad bitches. 700rwftlbs....wait, so you had a 7.00 gear in the back and dyno'd in first gear right?

....we'll all be here awaiting results......

 

Good luck!

Im interested in your results.

 

bow before the 3/4 race cam!

 

sounds more like it was a 3/4 diesel cam.....

 

Started out on race fuel to be safe, did timing changes and 34* was optimum. Carb was spot on from Pro system from where i left it last year, tried different spacers and stacks. Bested 644hp @ 6300rpm and 604tq @ 4900 using the 110 fuel.

Switched over to 93 octane which i normally run since i could'nt afford to drive this thing at $6/gallon. Lost 4hp and 7tq, it was a tad lean but the air is was good in there so i suspect by summer it will be right where it needs to be, but plugs looked fine, no signs of problems internally, so once we're at the track i'll finalize tune, but overall i'm extrememly happy!! not to shabby for a N/A pump gaz sbc in a tank of a car...i think i'll see my 10.50's that i've been going after finally I got a few leaker issues to fix before i drop it in but nothing major.

I have to give a great big thank you to Sput's, Mark and Jamie were excellent to deal with, fixed 2 issues i ran into but did'nt want to try and make worse until they looked at it, in minutes they had them taken care of and i just cant say enough of how nice of a shop these fella's run, and like i told Mark, from now on, i'll stay on the waiting list!!

[/quote]

 

awesome numbers, good to see you're still gonna be able to run it on pump gas, can't wait to see track numbers!

 

very nice...glad to hear it's sorted out!

 

Wishing i had more time, i wanna drive this thing now, but we're working all weekend and probably will be for the next 2-3 weeks until i can get caught up, but at least i know it runs, does'nt take long to stuff in back in the car

HERE is the video my buddy shot yesterday, typical boring dyno junk from the start of engine warm up up until the last pull on race gas at the end...very repeative as you'll see since, well..not much to look at/do when dynoing LOL!! we made some tugs though, got my money's worth

 

i hear ya on finding time. i had 2 hours before it rained me out today, so i got as far as up on ramps, and i only need 5 bolts out (converter and motor mount) and my old engine is out. you're ahead of me. i only have a shortblock, heads, etc seperate. lol

 

you `re u running 13.5:1 compression on pump gas??

 

The slugs are rated at 13.5:1, but the block is far from being zero decked, and chambers have been rubbed so they're not a true 64cc, right now it's at 11.8:1. Just a matter of taking everything into account to squeek out what we could, but it's definately on the fine line right now for 93octane....hence me not going to push my luck trying to squeeze it unless i put race gas in it. I may consider putting a small saddle tank in and seperate pump for the nitrous solenoid and shoot some 114 into it so i dont have to worry about mixing gas, removing pump gas then putting in race gas....but for now, the nitrous is the least of my worries, I have to figure out a way to keep the front end down and get control of my R/T's again, ever since it started popping the front end off the ground, the R/T's are all over the place. So once i get all of that sorted out, i'll focus back on the nitrous for my play passes. It should easily break into the 9's at this point on juice, and i'm not licsenced nor legal for those ET's so it'd be a one time shot anyways until i spend another grand or so getting all the pieces in place to make it legal....hence not getting too excited about it.

86iroc....dude...nah...your pulling your engine in the STREET???? WOW, you are a hardcore ****

 

my old engine i was running 360" 13:1 compression at 6600 rpm it made what u made at 4300 rpms on the engine dyno.On the street i would only run pump gas and never get on it. At the track i would run strictly 110 octane better safe than sorry. i do agree with u that engine dynos are very useful. my problem is persuading the machine shop to dyno my new combo on their engine dyno . i guess the chassis dyno will do.

 

This is what suprised me after we were all done and i paid the bill i was talking biz with the owner and he told me they typically dont allow "walk in's" but i had the second in command vouge for me along with a few other high end clients they do all the builds for is the only reason. He said, and i completely relate with my construction biz, when outsiders brought in their own stuff, it would always mess up the schedule. Where i went they usually have 2-4 engines on the pump per day during their busy season, and when unknown motors come in they used to run into problems with things breaking, not set right, missing this or that, etc...and it'd turn into a huge ordeal trying to get things in order just so they could make a pull on it, if at all.

So it's like when a customer asks me, "what if i supply the material and you just bid the labor?" after all these years of trying to be a nice guy, it's always burnt me in the end since we'll be short on material, they'll supply some junk i will not use, and we always end up chasing parts to get a job done, so a few years ago i just said enough is enough, you either let us do it so it goes like i'm bidding it, OR if you insist on supply materials and we're short and lose time, it's in my contract i charge homeowners $100 PER MAN PER HOUR that is on site, plus $100 trip fee to chase after missing material, and then the cost of materials with 25% mark up on top of all that....usually after i explain everything to them, it makes sense.

So i was dumb to the fact dyno's were like this too, but it makes complete sense to me, they figure their rate for a typical session, or allotment of time. They dont know if the engine is worth a crap so, like i expereinced the first time i dynoed this engine years ago after a shop assembled it....i was on their pump for 14hrs start to finish, with the bottom end tore apart since the shop installed the wrong main bearings, and the closest place that had replacements was 1.5 hours away...so i lost 3hrs behind the windsheild alone plus tear down, and redo....that is why most shops are dyno horders LOL!!

 

I totally understand why some of these dyno operaters hoard, its like you bring your own steak to the restuarant for them to cook it. My problem is the same machine shop that dynod my old motor is building my new motor. and will not run it on the dyno with the turbo only NA. i keep whining maybe they`ll cave.

 

2 hours...slowpoke lol just kidding. I have had the engine out of the race car, which requires taking the trans out due to the mid plate in 35 minutes....I was mad about the fact I wasnt at the track and saw a chunk of aluminum in the oil when changing it (valve springs hitting the heads lol)

Ihi...looks pretty impressive man, hope it runs like those numbers say this time!

 

Yup that time of the year again, I'm in a thrash right now, I have no interior... 2trans apart, yanking heads, swapping crank, changing cams, fixing whatever doesn't workout along the way...... gotta change tire combos fast, and did I mention i got laid off?
not how i pictured my 09 drag season starting but give me a couple weeks... i've got faith.
and to think, I coulda be collecting stamps instead of this hobby.......

 

Congrats on the numbers man. Not bad at all for the combo, sounds like it should do what you're looking for.

Good luck with it!