cut the flange up, you'll be happier

 

What he said.

 

I finally got the headers in.

On the passenger side, I can put the header and collector in from the top with the motor mount lifted. (and did not cut the flange)

On the drivers side, I could have put it the header and collector from the bottom, but my car wasn't high enough on the jackstands.

So far so good with the fitment.
Although I found out that Summit brand mini-starter WON'T work. So I got a powermaster infi-clock starter. It weighs less and it's smaller.

I try to post pics tonight

 

 

Those did tuck up pretty nice. Are you going to remove the frame sections to help with the exhaust. My oval exhaust worked great with no bends and had ample ground clearance.

 

I don't think so, I am going to put humps in the trans crossmember and use oval pipe.

 

i did make a double hump crossmember but had to remove that area. It will be a tight squeeze to get exhaust up near the transmission. if you did remove that section its a straight shot to the rear lca eyelets and you could run a pice of 1 5/8 tubing to each eyelet off the front subframe and really stiffen the car while also getting rid of the heavy sfc's. I saved like 40 lbs doing that and its pretty easy.

 

Do you have a pic of how you did your framework?

 

Here's a front pic of my car, notice that you can't see the exhaust dumps or the headers.




It's about 2 3/4 to 3 inches. I cut about an inch off the corner of the trans crossmember .
With oval pipe the clearance will be better yet.(don't mind the chunk of paper beside the can)


Once I get the oval piping and notch the frame slightly, the clearance will the great!

 

I got my car to the track, what an improvement from last year!

Best time last year on motor was 13.04@104
This year n/a was 12.31@108 (1.63 60ft) (open exhaust)

Best time on 100shot last year was 11.89@111
This year on a 75shot (engaging the n2o at 2000rpm) was 11.38@115.7 (1.53 60ft)

Best 60 ft this year was 1.468(lifting the drivers side tire for sure and maybe the passenger, have to find someone who video'd me)

Improvements that I did to the car since last year are:
-switched from shorty 1 5/8 headers to LT 1 7/8 open headers
-subframe connectors
-90/10 front struts
-50/50 rear shocks
- rear springs
-bigger intake tube
-new pro-edge 3500 stall

BTW - On the juice, I am on the limiter(5800)
That puzzles the **** outa me.
I have a 275/60/15 tire, th350, and a 3.75 rear gear. That should be good for 120mph. So that means I have about 10% slip.
__________________

 

nice results! 4mph gain with just the headers/exhaust n/a is a big deal!

 

And a new converter as well

 

nice. weight?

 

With me in the car, it weighs 3650lbs.

I haven't removed much of anything, and the interior is completely stock

 

raise the limiter!

 

I would raise the limiter to 6000 for the next race but I am already too fast.

I need a roll bar and other stuff to go sub-11.5's

My 400sbc has a stock bottom end so I don't want to push it too much, 400's with stock rods don't like rev's

 

I'm getting ready to order up a set of 1 3/4 EQ long tube headers to replace the 1 5/8 I've been running. I'm running solid motor mounts, a mini starter, deleted all HVAC on passenger side and have a manual brake set up on drivers side, and a SBC with world cast iron straight plug sportsman heads and a TH400 transmission. I would really like to have the headers fully welded. Hoping someone with real world experience could weigh in on whether I would be OK to go that way. I also want to run WB o2 sensors and EVAC tubes in the collectors. Any advise or experience placement and making that work would be great. Thanks for any help you can offer.

 

if all you're getting is 1 3/4", go with the hooker 2210s. they fit better and are fully welded.

 

What he said, go with 2210

If you go bigger, then get them welded, and you might have to cut the flange

What kind of mini-starter?

Make sure you place the WB sensor pointed up, so that any moisture does not stay on the sensor

 

Ok guys, thanks for the advice. I've been re-researching and reading/re-reading as much as I can find on the 2210's and any other third gen 1 3/4" long tubes that I feel may fit my needs.


The plug clearance issues most people seem to have with the 2210's are a deal breaker for me.


If I could find an old set of 2210's for cheap I'd give them a try but I'm not going to buy a new set and have to grind my k-member, trim my a arm mounts, reroute my brake lines, dent dimple and tweek the headers to get them in (all of witch I have no problem with), and then have to swap some of my plugs with Accel shorties and replace melted plug wires every week or two.


Don't get me wrong, I'm not bitchin', I've just got it in my head that I won't be satisfied with the 2210's. If I'm wrong please set me straight.


Most of what I've found makes it sound like the guys who've went with EQ's, Lemons, and Hedman 65165's, (The 3 other headers I'm currently considering) haven't had plug clearance issues.


I normally run open headers so exhaust isn't an issue, but if I have to cut out the stock sf and fab up my Spohn trans x-member and current sf connector, so be it.


So where did you guys have clearance issues with your EQ headers?


Thanks again.