Got these in today, 1 7/8" stepped to 2" primaries to a 3.5" collector... still have no clue how they fit, the flanges are just tacked to the primary tubes (they won't fully weld them if you don't have an exact factory location/ factory port head), and i guess that's how they shape the top part of the primaries when you say your heads have a square port. Coulda been a nicer "square" shape but shouldn't be too hard to get them how I want I guess. Will let everybody know how they fit and pictures too.

 

eh...i'm not sure what to say about those primaries at the flange...

 

me either

 

Yea looks like poor craftsmanship on the primary to header area. I guess if they fit how the flange is you can beat them out and then weld it and it might come out nice.. Good luck.

 

You'll need some tabs welded on to hold the slip on collectors on. Once everything is fitted and welded up, smooth out all those butt welds and send the headers out to be coated. Coated headers are well worth the investment.

 

What do you do if you have them coated and then build a new motor? Dont they say you shouldnt run coated headers in a break in of a motor? Thanks

 

seems for the price of those we get local chassis shops to build us the same thing for your specific car, but sure looks nice. Besides the flanges, guess they don't bother opening the ports up and leave it up to the end user.

 

They were $814 to the door, they look pretty enough, minus the primaries at the flanges. If they fit the way they should, I guess i won't cry too much about the "squares". Shouldn't be THAT big of a head ache. Yes planning on getting them coated as well as trying to smooth out that evac tube in the collector.

 

I had the same headers built 4-5 years ago and had them finish weld them. Unless you have a tall deck or an exotic sbc head they would have fit fine fully welded. I had AFR heads and they fit great. I spilt the flanges to install them easier and added a remote oil filter since the oil pan I was using didn't let me remove the filter easily.

 

They actually fit pretty good in the car, the only downside is you need to have solid motor mounts or take a grinder to the stock style clam shells (which i'm currently doing.) Also need to cut the flange behind the #1 and # 2 primaries (haven't done that yet since the primaries were just tacked into the flanges and just broke those off). The spark plug clearance is pretty awesome. Forgot to take a picture of the driver side but what ever.

 

Looks like the price went up too. Here are some more installed pics.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...uay-1-7-a.html

 

Thats they way you want them, at least hard core guys like me, I got a set of them, had to adjust some tubes before final welding. those clovered tubes bend so easy with a ball-peen to get them to a final fit..(exactly the reason they dont do it ) Great set of REAL headers you have there! I love that cone they put in there in the collector, they charge you extra for that?

 

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that they get the collectors/bullet kits from Cone Engineering, but I very may well be wrong. It's just that I've never seen any other place to get that.

 

Yes, was 40 bux extra for 1 7/8th (or whatever size greater than 1 3/4 you decide to go with). Then another 40 bux for a step style header. I believe the cones in the collector were 30 bux

 

okay, so swapped over to solid motor mounts this past Saturday, grinding the stock clam shell wasn't cutting it. Re test fitted them up and took some more pictures. WAY more room the solid mounts and took care of that issue with #1 and #2 primaries hitting the clam shell. All the spark plugs in the picture have only about 2 threads into the head, just to show how much room I actually have. So long hooker super comps...

 

I wish I had that much access for my spark plugs. I put a plug socket on the plug then crack the torque with a wrench. There's no room for a ratchet on the end of the socket. I then use a piece of hose over the plug to spin them out. My #4 plug can only be removed if I loosen #2 and #4 header tubes because there's no room for the socket to slide on and no wrench can reach the plugs.

The only plug I can actually use a ratchet on is #2.

 

I can change my plugs in 7 minutes with my BBC Quay headers and can use a socket and rachet for all plugs. I wonder why you can't?.

 

2-1/4" primary tubes maybe?

I got primary tubes bigger than some cars exhaust system!

 

jesse still rocking the stock kmember.....whew no wonder it took you forever to change motor mounts and you had to pop the stock springs out....sheesh!

 

Suspensions for rich people

 

This is good to see. I am getting ready to order some ED Quay headers myself. 1 7/8 stepped to 2". How many ci is your engine? I was going to just do 1 7/8" all the way with a 3" collector. Now I'm wondering if I should go bigger.

 

Depends on how exotic your engine is. If it's the 409 you advertise I'd stay with the 1 7/8 or 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8. I went to 1 7/8 with my 406. It made more power on the dyno with 1 3/4 stepped to 1 7/8 but 99% of my passes are nitrous assisted to I opted for the 1 7/8.

 

Mines 412 cubes and its a nitrous car.

 

Its nothing fancy. 13:1 409ci. I might spray a 150 shot. Are those Dart Pro 1's? That's what I'm running. 215cc runners. 1 7/8 should be enough for me then.

 

I agree, I'd do 1 7/8th the whole way. Think oil filter relocation kit too if you have a kick out style pan. I got tired of losening the headers for each oil change.

 

Afr 227s

Cars been 152-153. At 3150 lbs with hooker super comps 1 3/4-3" just to give you some perspective. Haven't been back to the track since they fixed the clocks, everybodys mph'd fast there, so even if it was 5 mph slower than that it still ball parks how much header you might need.

 

Sweet thanks. I can't wait to here your performance results with the new headers.

 

There's no way of telling really, old time out was with the hooker super comps and old mph clocks. Next time out will be with these headers and new mph clocks . Sorry, less the car picks up significant ET (which it won't, not without changing something else), it'll be a mystery

 

Also, were you able to get them installed without lifting the engine up? I have a freshly painted engine compartment and would like to avoid meshing it up as much as possible. The fewer times I have to take the engine out the better, but I don't want to wedge the headers up against the engine and frame rail either.

 

You'll need to lift the motor or cut the flange behind the #1 and #2 primaries .... and at that point you might as well cut it infront of #7 and #8 as well.

 

Ok, my engine isn't in the car yet. I may just lay the headers in the bay and drop the engine in. Then check the fit. Take everything back out to finish weld and have them coated. Dang I better get on it. How long did it take for them to make your headers?

 

Ahhh Haaahaaa, YES! Plugs are great- Oil change Forget it!! I feel ya

 

From the day I ordered them i got them to my door in under 2 weeks...ground across the country

 

anyways, buddy of mine took care of the primaries/flanges for me as well as weldin the tabs onto the collectors. Chopped up each side into 3 sections to make install easier, also had to chop the collectors down to 9" from 12" because the collector would run into the V portion of the subframe that the X member bolts onto. Donno yet how imma do the rest of the exhaust . Anyhoo, off to get coated...

 

wow they look great! very beefy! your buddy did an awesome job finishing up the flanges.

 

I'd take out that V section and add a tubular tranny crossmember to free up some exhaust space.

 

Very nice!

I have no trouble with plugs or oil changes on 2-1/4 primaries, just have to do it from underneath. - Of course, mine loop outside the frame rails and go out the fenders.....lol. Miles of room underneath! - I can do the plugs from up top, but it's easier just to throw it up in the air and slide under where they're out in the open.

 

Would it be possible to get a picture of the ground clearance with these headers? Been considering them now I need to do something before spring. Thanks!

 

I just got a set of Ed quay headers yesterday.

I saw that you used solid motor mounts.
Did you have to use Ed Quays's motor mounts, or would any brand work?
I see you mentioned that you tried to use the stock mounts, and tried cutting them, but it wouldn't work? Why?

 

I don't have any pictures this minute and won't be around the vehicle any time soon to take a picture of the ground clearance. Sorry, they sit up higher than the hooker super comps tho by an inch or two.

I used moroso solid mounts. I thought I might be able to clearance the clam shell enough to jam the headers in there, but in reality you'd wind up taking half the clam shell out to get those headers to fit. You NEED solid mounts or motor plates, no other way around it.

 

Ok, thanks!

Did you notice much change in vibration with the solid mounts?

I drive my car only about 1300miles a year, and it is a street/strip car.

 

no, you'll be fine with the solid mounts

 

umm $900 and you have to mess with them to make em fit???? why wouldnt you just go to the chassis shop and have them make you a set?

 

didn't need to mess with them, just solid mounts

good luck finding a chassis shop to make you a set of long tubes for a 3rd gen, with clam shells none the less, for $900.

 

I got the solid motor mounts in the car.

I got the drivers side header in the car no problem.

The passenger header is being difficult to get in.

Did you put the header in from the top or from the bottom?

 

bottom, for sure, i don't remember if you can get it in without lifting the motor some or not. I cut mine up at the flange anyways (in the pictures) so I can put them in from top or bottom without moving anything.

 

oh, and if you got evac tubes in the collector, do NOT grind them flush lol. Luckily i found this out before I did it

 

I had to take out my a/c evap box, and then the passenger header fit in from the bottom (with the engine lifted a little). I am putting a a/c delete box anyway.

Now the problem I am having is that it is just touching my summit adjustable mini starter.

Did you have the same problem?

 

I think mine barely clears

 

I got them finish welded.




I had to get 1 pipe moved so that I had more clearance for the starter.