hey guys im relocating my battery to my trunk to make room for the t6 turbo on my iroc, so i hae to install a battery switch in the back of the car to make it legal for the track

i know a 50 amp continous switch is no good,is a 100 amp cont switch ok for a street car i.e all accesorys + 1000 watt sound system

 

Your starter may draw more than that. To be track legal, you need a master switch such as this.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Taylor/895/1032/10002/-1

To be installed properly, it must be mounted in the positive cable. Off must be clearly marked. If mounted as a push/pull switch, push must be off. When turned off, it must kill the engine and all electrical devices. If it's not wired up properly, the alternator will keep the engine running when the switch is turned off. There are other switches available that make an alternator bypass easier. They have another set of smaller posts for the alternator wiring. If you know some basic electrical, a simple relay can be installed in the alternator's field wire to kill the alternator when the switch is turned off.

For street use, many users install the switch inside the car as a push/pull and have a removable handle that's taken off while driving on the street.

Don't forget that when the battery is inside a third gen, to be track legal, it must also be inside a sealed and vented battery box or behind a firewall. (stupid antique rule from long before non leaking gel cell batteries became available)

 

thanks man thats just what i was looking for, i know about the battery box, im going to order summits battery relocation kit, comes with a box, 2 gauge cables 20ft of power and 3 ft ground and all the mounting hardware, though since jegs has that switch so cheap ill have to see what they have for relocation kits as well

not sure how ill wire the alt just yet,will i have to run the cable all the way back to the trunk for the alt??

am assuming only if im using the disconnect switch to kill it id have to run it all the way back and wire it to the battery side so when the switch is flpped it cant feed the main power line to the engine

 

probably going to order this kit

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...10260/10002/-1

will 2 gauge be good enough??
or should i just goto my local car audio place and get some 0gauge amp cables

all the cars ie eer done were strickly track cars with no accesories and no real current draw other then ignition boxes and the like, so when it comes to a full accesory street car im a lil lost

 

anyone hae any advice?

 

Most kill-switches are rated for continuous and intermittent. Make sure your intermittent is above 1,000 and the continuous should be rated higher than what your alt puts out. Usually 175 is fine for cont.

As for power and ground cable. I have mine hooked up with 2/0 gauge which is larger than 00gauge. Its all I ever use on battery relocation. It also eliminated heat soak in the wires. 2 gauge and 1 gauge is a little small IMO. 1/0 and 2/0 is a good size. You can get this size welding cable off of eBay for fairly cheap.

 

what you need to do is either run the charge wire from the alternator back to the battery or a relay that is wired back to the battery to disconnect the charging wire, and generally all they do is have you run the car and flip the switch to off, and if it's "wired correctly" the engine will cut out.

Its another stupid rule made by someone that really didn't understand the technical implications of the rule and the way it's tested (the setup would be safer if you disconnected the negative/ground side of the circuit, then you shouldn't be able to get power/a spark to anything on the car, you can build a setup that is technically legal but could start a fire with the switch flipped off, like if you have an electric fan that is spinning at the time)

 

Unless you have the battery in a compartment that is sealed off from the passenger compartment, you need a sealed/vented battery box. The one you linked isn't good enough to set in the trunk well without building an enclosure around it.

 

http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...sp?number=1033

Id go with this one. you can run you alt charge wire thru one set of terminals and the batter thru another that way when you shut it off it acctually kills the engine and kills the alternator line with out having to do a bunch of wiring mods.
http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...ad.php?t=87393

 

thanks guys for pointing out that box was no good,and ill prolly pick up hat switch novaguy as long as it has the right ratings