Hey Stephen, I was browsing your site tonight when I came across your 454 specs. I noticed that you're using a modified distributor and the Holley Ignition and was wondering how exactly that works and what it accomplishes? I'm always looking for better ways to do things.

Thanks.

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1982 Camaro Z28

trying to make it worthwhile for the spring....

Check the website for progress http://members.fbody.com/Pro82Z/

 

I was wondering when someone would question what I'm doing. I have a few more things done to the engine that only me and my machinist know about

I didn't want to use a standard large cap HEI distributor. I know the firewall would need to be massaged in order for it to fit. This means I either need to buy a smaller aftermarket distributor or us an old style points one, maybe converting it to electronic with available kits.

Since I only need the distrubutor as a magnetic pickup, the module is eliminated. The standard HEI would need to be recurved for the new engine. Since this is a race only engine, ignition curve is only a modification that's needed to start the car since if it's properly curved, it will go to full advance once I start driving it around the pits because of the high stall converter.

The Holly Annihilater system offers up to 20 degrees of start retard to use with locked out distributors. My machinist said I should just lock out my HEI and use the start retard instead of recurving the distributor. I almost did that when it dawned on me that since I only needed the distributor as a magnetic pickup that I could use one of the newer dual connection style HEI distributors.

Local junk yard sells them for less than $10. I pulled a bunch and checked them out to make sure the pickup wires weren't brittle and cracked. I found 2 that I liked. I pulled the module out and cut the pickup plub off to install my own spade connectors. New Accell cap and rotor, last years MSD 8.5 wires and I now have a magnetic pickup distributor ready to drop in. Downside is the large opening in the cap where the module used to be.

Now I don't have to worry about weights and springs for a spark advance. I don't have a vaccum canister in the way and the distributor is a smaller package.

To use it I install it at full advance. Lets say 36 degrees. The degreed balancer will make it easy to set before the engine is fired up. Adjusting the Holley ignition to 20 degrees start retard means the engine will now crank over with the engine at 16 degrees BTDC. Once it hits 200 RPM (it started) the ignition goes to full advance of 36 degrees.

This isn't recommended for any type of street use since the ignition curve is needed for part throttle operation.

I hope that explains what I'm doing.



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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block almost ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

Just curious, why not use a crank trigger? Because it's not as much fun?

 

OK buy me one.

 

Thanks for the heads up....

now you want to explain to me how you knocked off high 11's at 5800ft w/ a 383 that used 35 year old heads???

 

The year before I was only getting high 13's low 14's. I had stock cast iron smog heads, a Holley 750 vacuum secondary carb, 700R4 tranny with about a 2000 stall converter.

I installed a TH350 with 3800 stall converter. Did some major port work on the 35 year old heads with complete valve job, springs etc and installed the speed demon 850 carb.

The first race of the season I ran 12.0 with just those changes done. Picked up 2 full seconds.

The rest of the tricks is in the suspension work however I still have stock factory shocks and struts.

 

That's truly incredible...the setup that you had before with the smog heads and low stall is what I'm running now on the 350 with high 13's, low 14's. Either I'll jump on this 400 buildup like I mentioned on the tech board and bolt up the TH350 I have sitting in my garage or maybe do a head/cam/converter/carb swap like you did. 2 seconds, I can't get over that...that's really amazing.

If I was smart, I'd just work on the 350, but my S10 is begging to get the 4banger swapped by the 350/700r4 combo if I throw the 400/TH350 in the camaro

We'll see...if the 400 block doesn't work out then I'll just go back to the 350. I came very close to getting a 454, but figured the exhaust would be way too much of a pain especially since I just got some nice Super Comps for the small block. Oh yeah, and the money involved...

Thanks for your help, God knows I need plenty of it

 

also have the 4.10's installed in the old 10 bolt as well...needless to say, this spring and summer should be fun at the tracks