(racing that is) I made up my mind to get set up for drag racing(been considering autocross). Any advise what to do first? Remove front sway bar, change to drag springs, all of spohn products, roll bar or what? After checking out Stephen's race site I'm in man!

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92 RS, 350, Street & Performance MPFI, TFS heads,
Crane Rollers,
MSD Digital 6 Plus, 22lb injectors,
ZZ3 cam, Edelbrock Headers 1 5/8, 3" Exhaust,
Hi Flow 3" Cat, stock T-5,
stock rear 3.08, koni yellow adjustable front, twin turbo glass hood, T-tops, Auto Meter Ultra Lite Series 2 5/8 gauges, Teal Green

[This message has been edited by 92 RSS (edited April 20, 2001).]

 

suspension is always a good place to start. i use the rod ended spohn stuff. i would also suggest some 50/50 shocks for the rear and 90/10 struts for the front. the stock rear springs are pretty good actually, so you can keep them if you want. the fronts could use a little help though, either stock v6 springs or the moroso trick front springs seem to do the trick.
and never under estimate the help that a good set of sub frame connecter can be.

lata
tim

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91 Camaro RS-LO3,Auto.
14.209@95.46mph
Best 60' 1.917
Check Out The East Coast F-Body Nationals Home Page
www.geocities.com/njspeeder

My MAFB.ORG Home Page
www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299

DSI Racing Home Page
www.geocities.com/foff667

 

With all the people who see my page, like the car, and want to build one similar to it, I should start my own fan club.

Don't be supprised after trying to make a similar car that it won't be as quick as mine was when I had the small block. Somehow I just had a very good combination of parts that went together well. Others have had similar combinations but told me they could only get low 13's or high 12's when I was able to get high 11's in high altitude conditions.

Also don't forget that my car isn't and will never again be street legal. It will live the rest of it's life as a race car.

First time out 2 years ago I was in Sportsman ET class as was just able to get into Pro ET some days. Last year was all in Pro ET. This year I hope to be a foot brake Super Pro car. The only thing stopping me from running a delay box and a transbrake is that I don't have a 9" installed yet.

Some day I hope to run low 10's. 9's would be nice but that's a completely different style of racing. Competition license, chassis certification, oodles of SFI equipment required, full roll cage, probably a full tube chassis also etc. Also the faster you go, the more expensive it costs to stay that fast.

Find a track that has street legal races so you can go try drag racing. Most are hooked once they do it. I always tell people that watching ET bracket drag racing from the stands is boring and it is. But when you're behind the wheel it's never boring. Even a Sportsman car running 14 seconds and slower is just as much of a challage to win a bracket race as an 11 second car. It's just cheaper to operate.

Have fun.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley