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Camber Adjustment for Autocross

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Old 05-07-2001, 01:34 PM
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Camber Adjustment for Autocross

I have a 1988 IROC with the L98 which I autocross. I would like to put some negative camber in the front end. I have noticed some plates and bolts on top of the shock tower for these adjustments. I was wondering:

1) Is this equipment stock? I have looked at "reader's rides" that don't have this feature on all Camaros. I don't want to get booted from stock classes with this if it was added by a previous owner.

2) Do I have to jack the car up to make the adjustment or is it safe to do so without jacking the car up? I've seen Corvette drivers adjust camber without the use of a jack
Old 05-07-2001, 02:39 PM
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Car: '87 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 385 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I just loosened the 3 strut tower bolts on each side (1 side at a time) and pushed the tops of the struts in towards to the engine to give me the most amount of negative camber, and pushed them rearwards for more positive caster. I ended up with about -1 degree of camber and about 4 1/4 degrees of caster on each side. No jacks or special equipment necessary. I've had my IROC aligned like this for a couple years, and my tire wear is very even.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4
Old 05-07-2001, 03:22 PM
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Greg - Thanks - that's what I thought.

Is this stock? I don't want to get protested... One Mustang protested another at the event I ran yesterday and I have to believe that there is a chill in the air.
Old 05-08-2001, 06:53 AM
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Car: '87 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 385 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
I'm pretty sure any front-end alignment is allowed in F-Stock and ESP, as long as the alignment holes in the mounting plates aren't elongated or moved...

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4
Old 05-08-2001, 07:25 AM
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This is a correct interpretation of the SCCA rules. However, I am not sure if these plates on top on the shock towers are stock. Did these come from the factory or are they aftermarket. Many pictures I've seen of other third-gen Camaros do not have these plates.

I just want to make sure I don't get booted out of F-Stock with this adjustment.
Old 05-08-2001, 08:34 AM
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Car: '87 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 385 HSR
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Do they look like the adjustment plates in this picture?

http://users.erols.com/gcwestph/eng-left.jpg

All 3rd-gens came with adjustment plates like these, so your's are stock too if they look like these. There are aftermarket plates out there, but it's usually pretty obvious that they aren't OEM since they're usually made out of billet aluminum or something else that's better-looking than the stock pieces.

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Greg Westphal
'87 IROC 305TPI/A4
Old 05-08-2001, 11:02 AM
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Greg - Based on the "Reader's Rides" section of this site, you are correct - all cars I looked at have this feature. Good.

For some reason, I remember looking at a series of pictures where these were not present. I must have been dreaming...

Thanks.

I'll report back on how much this helps me at events...

Old 05-09-2001, 03:06 PM
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Car: '08 Mustang GT
Engine: 4.6L
Transmission: º º 0 . . . |-|-|
Axle/Gears: 8.8", 3.55
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KeithO:
. . . I'll report back on how much this helps me at events...</font>
Don't forget to set your toe. In fact a little toe-OUT can help your turn-in for the event. Just reset it to a little toe-in afterward.

Norm

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1979 Malibu w/some cornering tweaks and a few other things

[This message has been edited by Norm Peterson (edited May 09, 2001).]
Old 05-10-2001, 06:49 AM
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Uhhh... Where can I make the toe out adjustment?
Old 05-10-2001, 12:46 PM
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Car: '08 Mustang GT
Engine: 4.6L
Transmission: º º 0 . . . |-|-|
Axle/Gears: 8.8", 3.55
There are sleeves that couple your tie rods. Just loosen the fasteners that clamp these sleeves together and turn the sleeves (NOTE: sometimes these sleeves get stuck real good due to corrosion). You want to turn them equally so that your steering wheel remains centered. Then tighten the clamp bolts. I'd keep a log of how much the clamps were turned just to simplify the reset. Your best auto-x setting will be found out by trial and will depend on how you like the "feel". For the street something like 1/32" - 1/16" toe in is OK.

Norm

[This message has been edited by Norm Peterson (edited May 10, 2001).]
Old 05-10-2001, 04:38 PM
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Great. Thanks for the info.
Old 05-23-2001, 06:33 AM
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Just to follow up and "close" this thread.

I found that I do need to jack up the car to remove the camber. When I loosen the bolts, the car goes straight to maximum negative camber. To get it back, I have to jack it up. No biggie - it takes about 5-7 minutes.

As for performance, I adjusted the camber after the first run and really couldn't tell any real difference. However, I was hung over and ran very bad all day. I will never drive hung over again.

I will probably run in another club Sunday. Without the hang over. We'll see.

Thanks to all.
Old 05-23-2001, 06:36 AM
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Oooops. Forgot the toe out.

I didn't change to toe out yet. My plan for this year was to learn to drive and make single changes at a time. Once I get a feel for the camber improvements, I will then look to toe out.

However, I am getting a strong feeling that I should be looking at the tires...
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