Hello Third gen. Read through these forums getting info for a
while now. Must say this site is amazing. It has helped in
many ways. Im almost done with my car its been long
time coming. The baby kinda put it on hold for a while
but that's life =)

Here is my set up,

Engine- 350 .040 over, 185cc patriot aluminum heads 2.02 valves
1.60 exhaust 64cc, flat top speedpr pistons. eagle crankshaft,
comp 1.5 roller rockers, erson hydrolic roller cam 548 lift.
238/246 duration, victor jr tunnel ram 6 inch high rise, 750
Holly 4 bbl double pumper.Accel high performance dist. 8.5 accel
wires 10.5.1 compression.

Trans- Full manual valve body 700r4 TCI 3000 stall
.500" Sonnax boost valve, 4th gear superhold duel servo,
low rev boost valve, 3/4s master clutch kit, kevlar super
performance bands, 29 segment sprag. High performance shift kit,
Bw low roller clutchs and corvette servo. B&M slap shift

Rearend- 10 bolt 7.5, 28 spline spool, 28 spline
moser axles, Richmond 4.56 ring and pinion package.

Cooling- Electric water pump, 2 core racing radiator, dual
electric fans. Trans has external cooler.

Exhaust - Shorty Headman headers, 3 inch y pipe to 3 inch
flowmaster super 40 then dumped under the car.

misc.- Gutted with 8 point roll cage bucket seat. 5 gallon
fuel cell holly blue pump 1/2 fuel lines. 90/10 drag struts
50/50 Drag shocks stock springs.

My first question Is what size rear tire would ya'll suggest? I
have 15 inch jegs racing rims. Gonna go with a drag radial
so I don't grenade the rear on first pass.

What do yall believe its gonna run in the 1/8 mile, I don't know
what to expect so im not expecting any thing crazy i'd be
surprised if I run 8.5 in the 1/8. I know ill never know till
I go haha.

Ty for ne help, Don.

 

275/60/15's

upper 11's or faster

you WILL break that 10 bolt.

welcome

 

You should hit 8.5 in the 1/8th. A couple of things I see that may hold you back:

- The Victor Jr. likes a lot of stall. Like 4000. It'll feel like a dog until RPMs get above that.

- The headers. Hedman long tubes would be better, Hooker 2210's even better still.

Do those, and you should be mid-7's in the 1/8th. Assuming you have traction. And the 10-bolt holds up (4.56's will put a lot of stress on the case).

 

With 4.56 gears, you're going to want at least a 28" tall tire. 28x9 slick will fit with little or no problems.

I pushed a heavily modified 10 bolt into the mid 11's before swapping it out for a 9" before it broke. No matter what you do to beef up the 10 bolt, the tiny teeth on the ring and pinion will always be the weakest part.

 

Thank yall very much for the replies.

I know the 10 bolt is my weakest link but funds fell flat with the arrival of my son. Good to know it may least go 11's in the 1/4 better then I had expected .

The tire size yall suggested was bout right where I was lookin for so that makes me feel better.

Now u say it will be sluggish till I hit 4k rpm? the guy who built it suggested 3000-3500 rpm but I deff believe u five7kid, for future knowledge what tc do you suggest?


Ty for ne replies, Don

 

the guy who built the converter or built the trans or built the motor? converter stall speed should be left up to a converter company. typically you want flash speed to be 3-500 rpm above peak torque, that way it flashes to the big meaty part of the power curve.

 

I had a Hughes GM40HD in a TH400, had very consistent 60' and ETs with it.

In the LS1/4L60E I'm running currently, I have a Rev Max 9.5" Stage 3 in it. Also very consistent. If you order from him, he'll ask about your combo, what you plan on doing with it, if dual purpose which is more important to you (I chose drag strip optimized over street optimized), etc. When I first ordered it, I said 3000 stall. That turned out to be a little low, so I sent it back and asked to raise the stall by 600 RPMs. 2nd time it was right on, and still has really nice street manners.

Like Matt said, you want the stall to be above the max torque. There are only two real ways to determine that - on a dyno, or observe how it acts on the track.

 

HI sorry for takin so long to comment back I work 12 hour days and take care of my son at night.

The Engine builder told me to buy a 3k-3500 stall so it would put the motor in the right rpms. So that's what I told the person who built the transmission he never questioned the converter size after askin my motor set up. That was 6 years ago. So no way to even have it restalled lol

I really do appreciate the help I will most likely have to buy a new converter but no biggie.

Another question sorry if I ask to many, What fuel pressure do you guys think I should be at? Right now its only 5 1/2 seems low. Havnt been to track So idk if that is enough.

TY for help, Don

 

you can easily have the converter restalled by any of the hundreds of quality converter companies out there. typical restall cost between 2-300.

 

A converter needs to match the camshaft which should match the rest of the car. It's very easy to have a lot of mismatched parts.

Carbs don't like more than 7 PSI of fuel pressure. Setting it somewhere in the 6-7 range will be fine. Going more than 7 PSI and you risk having the pressure lift the needle off the seal in the float bowl which will cause overfueling.

Optimal, you could have an idle bypass. At idle, the pressure is low, like around 3 psi. As soon as the throttle goes off idle, pressure increases to the max adjusted setting of around 7 psi.

 

I called up the transmission shop I got my stall from and He said he could have my converter restalled jus need bring all my engine specs so we can get it close. I want the best I can get out of my set up.

Alkyiroc Ty for answering the fuel pressure question I thaught what I had it on was lil low . Gonna put it on 6 when I go to track and start from there ty.


Thanks, Don

 

keep in mine, the fuel in the fuel bowls is not under pressure, so you really just need enough pressure/volume to keep the bowls filled while under WOT. fwiw, i run about 6.5psi in mine.

 

That's what I was worried about if it was gonna run out at full throttle. What size carb do you have on that beast 66nova?

Watched few vids of your car its beautiful.

 

just backyard built stuff man, nothing special. it's a pieced together 750 that i build with used parts laying around my dad's shop.

 

Very nice man got some skills haha. I got way to much money in mine been workin on it for 5 years. Id say someone doing something right and it isn't me haha. I wanna get it to the track so bad its killing me BUt still few things to take care of.

 

Do yall think this is a decent stall converter for my combo?

http://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/243161...oductId=749012

After have a few words with the guy that built my transmission ive decided no to go with him ne more. Id rather buy a new stall lol. Is this a decent price or should I try somthing else?

 

i really like the stuff Transmission Specialties has. they are the same company that make the Jegs brand converters, and they work amazingly well for the money.

 

Do I need to call them or do they have a site?


Nvm I found the site

 

So im in the process of getting a 4200 stall that's should be good, I havnt
runt he car much since installin the electric water pump. After bout 20 mins of running it sucks the radiator and lower hose not shut but enough.

They are jus stock hoses, I went to autozone to see if they had ne diff hoses with maybe the coil wire in it so it cant be suck together they were no help. Any one know what I need to prevent this sorry for the oviously stupid question.

appreciate ne help.

 

try napa. explain the problem and see if they have a lower hose with a spring in it to keep it from collapsing.

also, flush the radiator make sure there are no restrictions as a clogged radiator can cause these issues too.

 

TY a lot for the reply , hope its jus the hoses they are jus the stoc kind everything else is new.

There is no napa where I live, now that I know what I need maybe ill try orielys.

thanks man