I am sure this topic has been touched on but I didn't see much in the search I did on the forums. What kind of weight are you guys seeing in a street/strip form. I will start:

3325 lbs with out me in the car. This includes an 8 point cage, subframe connectors, Lakewood bell, and a 9 inch rear. According to my research the only places I could loose weight are in the bumpers, (aluminum upgrade?) crash bars in the doors, and by changing over to a tubular k member. I have done everything else.

 

you could also go to a kirkey seat, power steering and brake delete, etc.

depends on what you call "street" lol.

my car is around 3200lbs without me, but i'm a fatty at 300lbs.

 

Already have kirky seats and race craft mounts. I am going to install new Wilwood brakes, and spohn coil over kit with lower control arms in the next couple of weeks. Hope to loose at least another 25 lbs

 

i'm doing kmember, aarms, and coil overs this winter. been debating manual steering, as well as manual brakes.

 

where do u draw the line on a "street car" lol. it seems like everything I change makes the car more unfriendly on the street. o well, it at least looks like I am in the ball park for weight.

 

 

my "street" car definitely is a lot more loose than most. as long as i can ride down the hwy in OD and not get a headache from the exhaust note, i'm good, lol.

 

My 99 ta is 3686 street/strip with me lol daily driver

The 89 car used to be 3450 with me with na 383 and nitrous system. 8pt bar and subframes. On weld pro stars. All the suspension bolt ins except tube K. Stock hood

With turbo system and 19" rear wheels 18" front, thats my current street strip with the th400 and now 12 bolt rear, i bet its over 3600 with me. It may even be 3700, it feels as heavy as the 99 when pushing

 

3600 # is typical "race weight" with driver for these cars with full interior safety gear.

More weight savings possible if you gut the interior, which I won't do.

I have not scaled my car since I did the tubular k member, control arms, manual steering, and brakes it My guess it is still in 3400 -3600

 

3500# race weight on a full tank. I'm a lightweight at 130#, so the car with less fuel is around 3300#. Pretty much stock, power everything, AC, factory rims. No cage, no subframe connectors (I know, shame on me ). I figured I lost weight with the T350, but gained it right back with the 9". Could probably drop a few pounds if I took out the stack of time slips

 

Mine came in at 3350 with me in it. Used a set of Intercomp scales.

T-Top car, all steel with glass hood.
Carb'd small block w/aluminum heads.
TH400 and 10 bolt rear. Steel driveshaft.
No a/c
Factory steering box, no pump.
Heater box and in-dash controls are removed.
Front suspension all stock.
Spohn steel torque arm and LCA's.
Interior is all there except the back seat including carpet and sound deadening.
Car has 8 point cage and SFC's installed.
Weighed with less than 10g of fuel in the stock tank.

 

I needed to get to a lower ET for one class this year (had planned on running the '57 in that class, but didn't get it running), so I took the front passenger and rear seats out. That put me at 3300 lbs going down the track with just enough gas in the tank to keep the pump from cavitating. As the weather got warmer, that wasn't enough, so I took out the rear carpeting, spare tire & jack, cargo cover, rear cargo compartment, and everything out of the center console. That got it down to 3200 lbs going down the track.

Most of the year it was just without the seats. I drove it to the track and to work like that.

No roll bar, by the way.

 

My car weighed 3350 without me in it this season, 3600 with me I suppose. That is with stock 16" iroc wheels, steel cowl hood and a full interior. I swapped my stock seats to summit seats and that saved a lot of weight. I think my driver's side cloth power seat was nearly 50 pounds.

Myself and my car are on a diet plan this winter, when I saw how much $$$ it costs to shave 35 pounds off the car, I realized it was worth it to get a lighter driver as well lol . I have done the stripped "race car" thing before, I am not doing that again, so I have been trying to find a happy medium.

I am working on a few ideas to shave weight right now -

Electric water pump - I was still running the factory serpentine setup, so swapping to an e-pump allowed me to ditch everything except the alternator (serpentine setup on driver and passenger side, AC idler, power steering pump, etc). Also, the e-pump feels a bit lighter than a stock cast iron pump (definitely not 15 pounds like I have read some places, maybe a few pounds). I also switched to an S10 manual box and got rid of the power steering box.

Heat Shielding / Muffler mounts - I am running a single 3" bullet muffler in front of the rear axle, there is a lot of heat shielding for the crossflow muffler that can be removed if you are not running one. Also, remove the mounts that held the muffler in place (I noticed the exhaust shop left mine when they removed my muffler).

Retrofitting rear carpet - The rear carpet in these cars is HEAVY. The spreadsheet from these forums says 27 pounds, I would say it is at least 27 pounds. Mine had heavy rubber mat backed carpet, thick insulation, and a cardboard sheet. I bought this stuff -

http://www.lobucrod.com/ to use as insulation from www.ebay.com, and am going to put lightweight carpet over the top of it. Something along the lines of this (obviously this isn't my car):


The thought process is while it doesn't absorb sound as well, it is inexpensive, lightweight, and can get more coverage. A 40 square foot roll weighs 4 pounds, so we'll see .

When I pulled my carpet up, I found 2 steel mounts like this that I am cutting out:


And 2 more behind the rear hatch plastic:




I am going to continue looking for little ideas like this to chip away at my race weight, I got the insulation this weekend and should put it in as soon as I get all of these mounts ground off and painted.

 

my fully loaded z28 with the 6.0l, t56, 8.8 ford rear, jegster ta, and extra sound deadening material weighs 3440 w/o me and a full tank of fuel.

 

seth, "ounces turn into pounds" as the old stock eliminator saying goes. keep up the attention to detail as it will pay off big time in the end.

 

My car is 3190 with 60 pounds of ballast with me in it. Nitrous small block,glide,9",25.5 cage. Car has full interior except back seat,crash bars are still in place and still has stock disc/drum brakes. Has tubular k member,arms,pinto rack,coil overs,manual s10 master cylinder.

 

I'm intrigued. Been considering going to manual brakes. What year and model has the right MC? What are you doing for a prop valve? Did you have to modify the brake pedal?

 

Early s10 manual brake master cylinder with a wildwood adjustable prop valve in the rear line. Pushrod pin moved up 1" on the pedal. Works good and was pretty cheap to do. Have stopped at the track from 168 without the parachute.

 

86 IROC-Z: OEM glass hood, Iron heads and water pump, 700R4, full exhaust (LT headers) with single muffler (stock location), no AC, full interior (w/ power windows), 9 bolt rear, IROC rims, stock type suspension.
3440 lbs with half tank of fuel, no driver.
Four corner weight (no driver):
LF: 941
RF: 939
LR: 779
RR: 778.
About 55% front, 45% rear.

86 Sport Coupe (hard top): Steel cowl hood, iron heads, aluminum water pump, 700R4, full exhaust (LT headers) with single muffler (stock location), no AC, full interior (no power anything), Dana 44, IROC rims, stock type suspension, Spohn SFCs, 30 sq. ft. of HushMat.
3440 lbs with half tank of fuel, no driver.
Interesting: Remove the T-tops, GFX, power windows, 9 bolt and iron water pump , add SFCs, Dana 44, aluminum water pump and HushMat and you get the same weight (in my case).

 

Well, I'm only missing a few "street" items like wipers and a horn, but my car is 3000 with me in it, and I'm. 180 lbs. and I have carpeting and working lights.

Wiring is heavy from the factory, and it definately adds up.

Worst case scenario, just build a bigger motor to overcome the weight. :-)

 

12 years later....

86 Sport Coupe (hard top): Glasstek cowl hood, iron heads, aluminum water pump, 700R4, full exhaust (LT headers) with single muffler (stock location), no AC, full interior (no power anything), Dana 44, IROC rims, stock type suspension, Spohn SFCs, 30 sq. ft. of HushMat.
3330 lbs. with 1/2 tank of fuel and no driver.
Race weight (and possibly today if I pass tech for test and tune) would add another 200 lbs. with a driver fully kitted to race.
Call it 3530.
I was surprised when I came across my old build notes (from 2014) and saw how "light" the car is. Hasn't changed much in a weight sense since then. Might have shed a few pounds with a smaller converter but that's about it.

 

@radialtireking What brake pads are you using with stock calipers? I want to change pads and not sure what I want. Been using cheapo NAPA green box pads for years. I run 1/8 so it stops good at 107mph.