so I went to the track for the first time with the new motor.
went 9.0 @ 79 mph in the 1/8 mile...I was expecting a little more than that. was hoping for mid to low 8s. I know the stall has a big part of it but I was hoping to at least be in the 8s
any tips on what I can do to get it there until I get the stall?

this is my set up rite now
355 gen 1
comp XFI 268 cam .570/.565
vortec heads with 2.02 valves
holley stealth ram with 27lb injectors
dynamic efi EBL p4 ECU
racetronix fuel pump with hotwire kit
BW 3.27 9 bolt rear
700r4 with stock stall

 

Well with 3.27 gears, I was able to push my car with an old school 383 to something like 11.8 @ 118 MPH in the 1/4 mile but the gearing was really off. I was also using a TH350 at the time.

Are the heads set up to handle that much lift? No chance of coil bind or the underside of the retainers hitting the valve seals/guides?

I think best performance from a converter would be in the 2500-3000 stall range. The 700R4 transmission will be holding you back with the deep first gear. Something like a TH350 or TH400 would have a better gear ratio. If you feel you need an OD gear, a 200-4R or 4L80E upgrade should be considered.

 

Yeah I had the heads set up by the machine shop to handle that cam so shouldn't be any issues there.
Could also be in the tune? Which is what im working on now but I have very little tuning experience lol
I can get my hands on a th350 that's already built pretty easy...should I just do that and skip the stalled 700r4 all together? How much do you think the th350 would cut my ET by with a 2800 stall?

 

what did your timing slip look like?

 

I don't have it in front of me rite now I'll post it when I get home but off hand I remember 9.042 @79 mph with a 2.02 60 foot

 

A higher stall converter gets the engine into the powerband quicker and keeps it there while at WOT. The fast you can get into that powerband and stay there after a shift, the faster you will be. How well it does depends on a lot of factors. You can have 3 different 2800 stall converters and they'll all react differently. A tight converter, loose converter, 10" or 12" all with the same stall speed will all perform differently.

The converter behind my engine stalls around 6000 rpm. I run 4.86 gears in the diff. All the dragstrip calculations say I should be running a 4.56 gear. I put in some 4.57 gears and tried a day of racing. The converter stall wasn't good enough for those gears. The car was too slow off the line. Went back to the 4.86 gears and the car picked back up again. Same converter but different gears. If I had a converter with a lower stall speed, the car may have been faster. The way my car is setup right now My shift light comes on just before I cross the finish line. I'm maxed right out and can't go any faster.

So you going to a 2800 stall converter will be an improvement over the stock converter however the 3.27 gears will still be holding you back. The 3.27 gears and 700R4 are a good combination on the street. The low gear of the 700R4 will get you off the line quick enough and the 3.27 gears with the OD will have good highway manners. For the dragstrip however, a TH350 with a 2800 stall converter will probably like something closer to 3.73 gears on a 26" tall tire. 3.73 gears and a 2800 stall converter will not give you great fuel mileage so there's always going to be a trade off.

 

i gotta say i was rather disappointed in my times at the 1/8th. 8.7's on motor, but ran an 8.3 with 100 shot. maybe a small kit would help ya out?

 

Kind of disappointing, how's your tune? Your MPH is a little low. Are you tuning with a wideband?

My setup, with a little bigger cam (280xfi), but stock worn out shortblock, ran a pretty consistant 8.5@86mph with 2.0 60 foots (t56 traction problems).

 

That's the thing I've been working on lately is the tune. I have very little experience with tuning but a few people on this forum have been helping me out. And at the moment I'm still trying to tune with the narrow band O2 needless to say sucks lol. What mangement are you running going by your sig we have similar set ups

 

Well it's not my daily driver anymore so fuel mileage is not a concern. I'm tryin to decide if getting a stall for the 700r4 is even worth it. Because if I'm going to go th350 eventually I might as well save the money I would spend on a 700r4 stall and put it into the th350.

As for tires rite now I'm running he MT ET street SS 26x10.5
Would the th350 be okay with the 3.27 gears or would it be slower until I got 3.73s? Rite now I'm crossing the finish line at redline in 2nd gear.

 

Yeah check the tune up. That setup is running the mph that a bolt on stock L98 would run

Should be quicker by several mph. Bolt on ls1 went 86-87 best past, sometimes 85 depending on air quality. So you should be lower 80's

The 700r4 is fine

 

I do have a kit but I'm not installing it until I get the wide band O2. But I was hoping I could be in the mid-low 8s on motor then spray it and maybe be in the high 7s

 

That's exactly what I was thinking. With my limited tuning experience and the fact that it's still narrow band doesn't help. I don't really know what to look for in the data logs and what not

 

The other thing I was thinking about was changing the headers/y-pipe it's got hooker 2460s they are ovel port where as the heads are square port, probably loosing some power there as well

 

Don't expect to use all the gears in 1/8 mile racing. Technically, if geared properly which includes having a converter with a stall speed that matches the camshaft, you should be shifting into high gear (third in a TH350 or even a 700R4) at or just before the 1/8 mile mark. The last 1/8 mile of a 1/4 mile pass is simply a high gear brute HP pull to the finish line. All the shifting is done in the first 1/8 mile.

Like I said, I ran a TH350 with a 3800 stall converter with 3.27 gears behind a 383 and ran very high 11 second 1/4 miles. That would be something like 7.6-7.7 in the 1/8 mile. Engine was carbed.

 

yeah I don't expect to use all the gears. but yeah rite now I'm shifting rite at the 1/8 mile mark.
so if I decide to go stick with the 700r4 and stall it what converter should I go with...like you said earlier not all 2800 converters react the same.

in the time until I can get a converter how else can I at least break into the 8's?with out spray

 

For now watch the o2 voltage and try to get it near 900 milivolts.

Wideband is necessary tho imo

 

My O2 mv is between 700 800...sometimes I'll get 850...I would have to add fuel correct?

 

I also notice that after 4900rpm the 02 mv falls off quick,

 

I switched over to the LS computer, and am now using HP Tuners. However my best times were with the 165 MAF computer (my wideband died on me before I had it dialed in all the way). I have heard so many good things about EBL, have a friend that had excellent success with it, so your set up.

Couldn't agree with ORR89 more, a wideband is pretty much a necessity. I tried to tune with the narrowband, and thought I had it close. I hooked up a wideband and come to find out I was pig rich. Narrowband really isn't accurate on anything besides 450mv. After I got it dialed in it was a world of difference.

I would think you will be trapping as fast as me, maybe a mph or two slower. You should be doing much better than 2.0 with that auto. I was pulling 1.7 60 foots with 700r4 and factory suspension.

 

Yeah narrow band is hit or miss. If its falling off (meaning values getting smaller) after 4900 it may be a bad sensor, not hot enough or actually goin lean

If its consistantly 700-800, it needs more fuel but its hard to say. It may be fine air fuel wise but narrowband is just reporting lower. I have seen this. I have also seen 900-910 mv be about 12.8 air fuel. It is hit or miss