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Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
have had 1 offer on the 2nd house....and might have a 2nd offer in this week... the big block 615cid is so close to getting ordered......
the check will just clear...and be spent....BLLAAMM! http://www.shafiroff.com/chevy-crate...wg-twisted.php
+$4000 for aluminum block =(eng cost $19.500.00)
+$1600 ss shaft rockers
+1995 Fitech duel tb 1200hp unit
+$2000 headers
+$2500 custom intake (might get it done for under $1000) by using a older unit and. doing a custom top plate..to get it under 9" tall total..to fit under my hood...
just under $30.000 and no looking back! no more small block
427sbc wall hanger looking for a place to get dusty...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 12-31-2017 at 03:16 PM.
I don't know why but I had the idea in my head that your car has long been a wicked fast, big block, pro street type car. Didn't realize that is just the current project. How long has it been since the car was driveable?
I don't know why but I had the idea in my head that your car has long been a wicked fast, big block, pro street type car. Didn't realize that is just the current project. How long has it been since the car was driveable?
a few years.pull it apart to upgrade....the only thing left after this..would be to backhalf the car..and more monkey bars..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 01-02-2018 at 11:23 PM.
All that money spent on the engine and you're putting a FiTech on it?!?!
Holley..
Fast..
Kingsler..
have used others in the past..and have talked with the builders. who have used others. and have used fitech...they do 1000 to 1500 HP EFI engines all the time.. that's there Job...so going to go with what works. for what I want to do with this eng...after all..its not a race car...this is a small tire 325 50 15 street car race cars don't have power widows..and cruse..
back in the day..11 sec 12 sec street cars was a everyday thing... today.. if your not 8 sec to 9 sec 1/4 mine street car...your like every body...and some of us..dont want to be like everybody..today every body has turbos..or blowers..making 800 hp or more..
cutting up there cars to fit parts on..to make them faster....some of us don't want to cut up a Nice Car..(back half maybe)
what we cant get in billet parts we chrome...make them look nice..and beat on them...this one is going to get beat on..like a bracket car...lol just nice looking...and sand bagging the hell out of it....
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 01-03-2018 at 12:11 AM.
I like to use what works well and there is support for, there is almost no support for FiTech. I know someone who tunes cars as one of his primary job skills, and he said the FiTech is terrible, he said never again. Guy at the Optima Race this past summer had the FiTech, he said they had to create their own support page on Facebook because FiTech won't help them. From what I heard he actually removed the FiTech from his car over the fall. The only good thing about the FiTech is the price.
That's too bad... I have spoke with Fi Tech over the last month probably 5 or 6 times... I've always gotten ahold of them and always had the questions answered.... by their tech department... maybe it's just me... just lucky I guess... I'm not going to do anything fancy with their system... just running it instead of carburetors... with a dedicated fuel return system..from the start...but we will see how it Works out..
On a side note.. I have taken notes on problems that others have had... 99% are user error..Some more simple... but I don't jump into something without looking first...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 01-03-2018 at 12:15 PM.
What gets mass marketed? What gets real world results? Lots of systems out there. I'm sure each one has good and bad things about it.
One thing I would consider is to look at what's being used a lot. Look at all the cars competing in last years Drag Week. There were a lot of fuel injected cars. I'm sure a huge amount of them were using Holley.
mod..parts..as I don't want to cut my any Original equipment parts up..
scored a original GM bumper cover($249).to mod for the chute braket..will have It painted. when I get the hood painted..
not a mark on it.(THATS WHAT I PAY FOR)..its never been hit or even bumped into...I think it even might have been a GM replacement part.as the 5.7 emblem was not in the right place...
and this way I can get rid of the 5.7 tuneport Emblem .. anybody make a 10.0 EFI emblem...lol
chute cable hole in trunk will be in trunk light..picked up a 2nd trunk light as well..($24)
Never.. cut up Original parts...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 01-04-2018 at 10:28 AM.
looks like the 2nd house is selling..now if we can just get it closed.in the nexed few weeks..that pays for the Aluminum BBC.. at this time I orderd the Fitech duel TB top. and linkage.. THIS is cheaper then ordering a 2018 ZR1 Camaro..and saves me big bucks at buying a 2018 COPO Camaro...lol
linkage for the side ways mount of the TB
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 01-09-2018 at 12:07 AM.
not a Race Craft This is another manufacturer. AA performance the picture is shown with the bar upside.down this bar provides the mounting tabs for the 5 hold down bolts on the bottom chin of the bumper.. I will add the chute bracket to this.. so it is all in one..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 01-10-2018 at 10:08 PM.
intake
started out like this.
some tweeking was done
fitech on place/fit
linkage
working on the NOS setup
15" from top of air cleaner to bottom of intake.... should fit under the hood. with a 1 1/2" to boot will use that up with a taller air filter... on a side note I did run across a all aluminum ZL1 BBC ramjet (only 510hp) 1 of only 200 GM made..it would be a bolt in..but its only half the HP wanted...($18.000)
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 04-14-2018 at 04:21 PM.
the ZL1 would be a nice in a what if/what GM should have done in a Camaro build.
but yes the 615 will be a bit more fun...we will just say..what a ZL1 should be..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 02-27-2018 at 10:23 PM.
Just a reference for you man, the motion raceworks stuff is a nice piece!
iv looked at this stuff the last month..and love the one piece set up like this.. but at the same time want the lower lip of the bumper cover supported.. the 5 bolts that hold it in place under the car...tryn to get the guy to add the upper chute plate to the lower tube..and have the lower support added..
this is the mock up of the NOS set up....will have 2 fuel regs ..1 for the Fitech..1 for the NOS fuel..as a back up to the fitech nos tune...
adding 4 plate elbows (90 deg) and 10" lines to bring the lines into a better looking set..as the 12" lines now are to long..
the intake is going in for polishing Monday!! more cash flushed!! woohoo
is this a dual plate setup? is that 2 purge solenoids?
yes.. duel plate sigle stage.. duel bottle set up.. yes 2 purge solenoids. 1 for ea line. from ea bottle..
the fuel line is set up from the tank..to a fuel reg..then to the gas solnoids.. with a return line on the reg back to the fuel tank....
the TBs also have a reg and a fuel pump with a return line..
all this can be also ran off any of the 2 pumps by them selves... If 1 fuel pump dies...it can keep going...by turning 2 dif valves
ea of the below fuel pumps can run this set up..the fitting on ea pump is 12AN.. (garden hose size) and can hold upto 90psi..lol
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 03-13-2018 at 07:22 PM.
.....
trans..have 3..the 3rd is iffy..
1st close ratio 700R4 all billet parts. rev patrn.whats not billet as been cryo treated
$2800 in sonax hard parts..and GM parts..
w/trans brake carbon fiber drive line (will order) drive line after install..
converters billet
2nd TH400 w/trans brake ($2500) if I have to..and C/F drive line made to order..
3rd power glide..w brake about the same as the th400..price wise..
converters billet
WAIT!
Are you saying that your #1 choice for trans is a built up 700r4??? For this kind of brutal torque? With a trans brake? Dare I ask does it still maintain auto shifting? I'm really curious about this. Is this even a reliable option? Are there details about this and/or a similar build ups somewhere?
I was basically under the impression that they become unreliable at about half that power (I've seen 2 "700hp" 700r4's blow up in slower than 13 second cars) and have given up with it for about <1000hp turbocharged, but if this is really possible I would do it in a second. I have a 4L80e mostly done for that setup but I would do anything to avoid the extra weight, size, cost, and hassle... and don't like losing the OD with my other serious options.
Originally Posted by scooter
I like to use what works well and there is support for, there is almost no support for FiTech. I know someone who tunes cars as one of his primary job skills, and he said the FiTech is terrible, he said never again. Guy at the Optima Race this past summer had the FiTech, he said they had to create their own support page on Facebook because FiTech won't help them. From what I heard he actually removed the FiTech from his car over the fall. The only good thing about the FiTech is the price.
Originally Posted by articwhiteZ
That's too bad... I have spoke with Fi Tech over the last month probably 5 or 6 times... I've always gotten ahold of them and always had the questions answered.... by their tech department... maybe it's just me... just lucky I guess... I'm not going to do anything fancy with their system... just running it instead of carburetors... with a dedicated fuel return system..from the start...but we will see how it Works out..
On a side note.. I have taken notes on problems that others have had... 99% are user error..Some more simple... but I don't jump into something without looking first...
Originally Posted by AlkyIROC
What gets mass marketed? What gets real world results? Lots of systems out there. I'm sure each one has good and bad things about it.
One thing I would consider is to look at what's being used a lot. Look at all the cars competing in last years Drag Week. There were a lot of fuel injected cars. I'm sure a huge amount of them were using Holley.
I have to say I'm with them, I have serious doubts about the FiTech stuff. No direct experience here but I'm a member of a few advanced tuning groups (mostly professional tuners...) and I see what appear to major disasters with their stuff about once a month or so. Typically it goes something just doesn't work or some major drivability glitch just won't tune out, they talk to FiTech and get no useful answer and they talk to the forums/groups, they go around and around, it's never worked out and they end up ditching it for "something that works" (seems to be a quote I've heard more than once in these discussions). I have one friend that does a lot of building his own and heavily modifying existing hardware and I heard his commentary about what is inside the box on the FiTech stuff, but of course, people like that can be overly critical.
The non-professional stuff I've heard kind of tends to go "I tried and tried and couldn't get it to work (or blew my **** up), I gave up and went Holley (or a few times BS3)." But I will admit, if it wasn't for the professional stories that go like that I would chaulk most of these up to user error.
I really wish you luck with it and I'll be watching how this goes, I honestly am not familiar with any big power setups running it successfully, and I've been joking that the FiTech results have become great for Holley sales... :/
first off the eng is tuned on a dyno.. scott Shafiroff Racing has used fitechs and have had no problems with fitech..(they tell me)
others who have had probs..ill have to see for myself..its like others who cant get a 700R4 to stay alive 10 sec pass after 10 sec pass..iv never had one fail me yet..just lucky? No..
this trany only has 3 stock GM parts..a 5 pinon planet..output shaft..and case..also NO tv cable...(this set up did away with it)
its close ratio now..and all parts have been croyd to help.. its full manual revs with trans brake..I like foot braking..the trans brake is how the valve body comes..and nobody on this site has ever used all the after market parts made for the 700R4 ($3600)in hard parts give or take $300..have been down the road with the 700...its not a bad tranny when done right...and in a few years the 6 speed autos will take over.. right now they are in the $6000 ball park....
if it fails then a th400 with over drive is only $4000
this is not a race car...not yet... as its never been cut up and still has power windows.. and a CD player..
the bottom line is..if I cant get what I want in the HP with this set up.. then I will install fuel rails... make it port injection with twin Throttle bodys..and give that a shot...will have to see what it puts out...
remember I can make a top to fit this lower intake anyway I want.....the sky is the limit..and ya got to start off some place..
I'm shipping all the intake parts off to new York to have it put together.. and tuned..then sent back to me.. for install...things are moving..coming together...
iv worked with parts in the past others cant get to work...and when I was running 10s and 11s with this car it was 1993/94 and the car was close to new..(NOT STOCK) iv seen a lot of post with guys having probs with stuff... but like I say... try it for your self to see whats true. and what works... then ya can ssy...been there done that..got the tee shirt..
all aluminum 615cid BBC
925hp 6200rpm Pump Gas! (I do buy the good stuff 55 gal drum at a time also)
and @5200rpm its only 830 foot pounds of torque...only
what could possibly go wrong?
small
example
maker gave up on this part/or wanted to make it over....sold it off...
ya buy it..put 2hrs into it
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 03-16-2018 at 01:44 AM.
this was paid for today..I like the lower lip made to hold the bumper cover..and the chute plate...not like a lot of the others..
what it looks like in place..
that's why the score of the bumper cover..as I don't want to cut a hole in the one on the car..this one is like new!
want to install it with inserts at the top instead of nuts and screws..might redo the upper arms..to make it so I can remove it..with quick pins...it will be finished in body color..
spring looks like it landed..also got a 22hp 46" deck riding mower with triple bagger!! delivery is this sunday! woohoo! it is/was needed! the self propelled walk mower was a lot of work...lol and sucked!..not fun!
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 04-19-2018 at 07:28 PM.
mock up..
have some sweeping black 90 4an to replace the hard 90 in blue off the fuel solenoids.should be in soon.
had the NOS lines made with 4AN. as the hard lines crack over time.. gave them what I needed..they still made them about 1/4" to long..pushing the fuel bracket forward. as seen in ths shot..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-01-2018 at 11:43 PM.
a few things I added to the build
aluminum brodix block
Brodix BB3X 380 Fully CNC Ported Rectangle Port Aluminum Heads
jesel belt drive
ATI damper
crower shaft rockers
bushing roller lifters
moroso fab aluminum oil pan
moroso billet pump
10° Titanium Retainers
1.640" Manley Nextek Roller Springs
your basic ZL1 as chevy should have done it..
side note..might add roller cam bearings...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-02-2018 at 08:41 PM.
might as well go ahead and x off that 700r4 and purchase that $4k th400.
you are putting a 7 second engine in front of a 10 second trans in a 10 second chassis.
Well.. it's not a race car... And the car is been in the tens with the small block... I plan on back having the car next year... but this is still just a Streetcar...
As for the transmission, yeah I figured I'd have to move up to a turbo 400... that's why I'm waiting to do the carbon fiber Driveline until that transmission..... but I don't think you need a tube frame to drive on the street... after all I still have power windows power locks in a full interior...
if I go real crazy I might even add twin turbos to this..... that would be after back having it though...
I want this car. ToJust easily cruising to the nines. (but will have to slow the car down to keep making runs) rules...
and run on pump gas...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 01-30-2019 at 10:15 AM.
when I say easily cruising to the nines I mean foot brake shifting under 7000 RPM and nitrous only use half track.... but like anything else they're only plans...
i think you are selling this engine short- i wouldn't be overly surprised if it touched 8's n/a. the sbc you pulled out could have most likely gotten you into the 9's with the nitrous.
my car went 9's with a pumpgas 350 and a 100 shot. (but lighter,at 3050lb.)
700r4 will not last long at any level, imo. no sense in wasting money on it.
you dont need alot of chassis work to go 9's with it, but you will have alot of wasted energy and the car will probably not work well at the track. it may be inconsistent and/or hard to keep straight.
i think you are selling this engine short- i wouldn't be overly surprised if it touched 8's n/a. the sbc you pulled out could have most likely gotten you into the 9's with the nitrous.
my car went 9's with a pumpgas 350 and a 100 shot. (but lighter,at 3050lb.)
700r4 will not last long at any level, imo. no sense in wasting money on it.
you dont need alot of chassis work to go 9's with it, but you will have alot of wasted energy and the car will probably not work well at the track. it may be inconsistent and/or hard to keep straight.
its seen 10s with muffler driven to the track...in the 90s
but now..
the 700R4 has been done the only stock parts are a 5 pinon planet (with 6 pinon planet)to make it close ratio..
output shaft
case..
all cryo treated and over $3000 in aftermarket hard parts sonnax and TCI (no kickdown ) valve body..
sonnax thinks it will take it...im not going to be sad if it works.. but hay...we are going to see...
I will be the first one to post pics if it don't!...
but a th400 with a gear venders overdrive is on the list of get parts..
its not a race car...its a small tire (325/50/15) street car..with race car/good parts...lol
not going dry sump.....nope!!
and still running power steering...
the headers are the thing that's got me thinking.. Dan wants pics of the Kmember, hes done other makes but not the UMI unit. and this set of heads, the exhaust ports are raised 600 thousandth.. wanting 2 1/8 tube..as I don't think I'm going to get 2 1/4 tube.. to fit?
unless they go out the front fender...huummm? (no)
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 01-30-2019 at 10:18 AM.
with some other parts I also ordered this intake..lol going to have them test it and use the best one of the 2 on my eng..wish I would have known they had come out with this short of a intake. 6.5 inch tall... would have saved me time and a few bucks...
the nice thing about the intake above..I get rid of 1 gasket..and the plastic spacers to get the TB linkage to clear..as I did not mount any to my intake top...just left it flate…and the top intake is 5lbs lighter..
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 05-25-2018 at 06:30 PM.
on a side note I ordered a 2nd MSD set up box dissy coil for the fitech set up.. so ill be getting rid of the 1st MSD set up. dissy.. BTM box.. coil.. and coil harness.. for the GM set up.. ALL still new in boxes.. would have used the BTM box.. but I did not want to..
On my bbc with motor plates and tall deck block and raised echaust ports i got 2 1/8 to fit fine. However i relocated oil filter to front of car with moroso parts
Starter and header kinda have to go in partially at same time i think. Not done with pass side tho but i suspect having the starter off will make getting header in alot easier
No way i could have done this in 1 piece with a k member that has engine mounts lol. Motor plates free up tons of room
the exhaust ports are 600 thands higher then stock. standard deck hight block. 2 1/8 tubes Im told should fit fine..but we are looking at few things.. the K member type Im using UMI. as for the starter its the smallest one GM makes. you could almost put it in your pocket...and if I have to move the filter location..no problem...lemon thinks under the car will be for work then the top side..
2nd new intake is a full inch shorter and 5lbs lighter the the one I had made..lol so ill use the Holley. it came in today..
the new intake...at 1 inch shorter..have to redo the nos set up..but I think I like this intake over the one I made..
on a side NOTE.. holly placed the carb/TBs at the same place/space has I did..even the linkage is the same..sweet! even the air cleaner set up fits. without adjusting it..
so in the end I did get a sheet metal intake...(after $1000 into making and polishing one)..LMAO
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-02-2018 at 02:29 PM.
thanks..its been a pain...making up my mined on what to do..big inch small block? twin turbo?..big block..or just a stout big block with Nitrous!...so in the end.. I went with a big inch Aluminum Big block with Nitrous...That's the plan at this Moment..
got a call this morning at 5AM from New York..asking for more money..(a month ahead of schedule)
So to day's 2nd down payment Of $15,000.on top of the $5000.I put down to get in on the $500 off of the Brodix block sale.. now leaves me with ball park $4000 left..to cough up...lol.. the block has been machined assembly work has started they tell me.. now I've got to ship my parts to them... this wasn't supposed to happen for another month.. has the house money hasn't even came in yet... so we are a month ahead of schedule...thank god. for Visa and Master card! as I did not plane on coughing this up for another month..then with cash...at least it 0% interest..so ill just float it..till I pay it off nexed month..lol..
side note: venny my salesman is on Vacation.. and they are ahead on every thing..they started the build. and saw I only had $5000 down... and called me..so I paid up..to keep it in the Build Stage...(its a good thing) getting it faster then I hoped for..
might get it in this summer after all
sending in
moroso aluminum oil pan
moroso billet oil pump
fitech duel TBs power adder set.
sheet metel intake
MSD distributor locked out for fitech set up
MSD plug wires
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 12-13-2020 at 06:21 AM.
cant open up the ports on the holley intake..size is limited to the sheet metal runners... might have to use my hand made intake lots of meat to open up the runners to the gasket size... about a 1/4+ in on ea runner.. (brodix 380 heads)
in this shot you can seen the out line of the felpro gasket to go with the heads getting used.
don't want to choke the eng.. with small intake ports..
and will have to PLUG up the bolt hole above the runners...as the gaskets Creep into them...
using aluminum 1/4" NPT plugs. tapping the intake bolt holes. sealed with epoxy on the plugs.
then port matching.
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-10-2018 at 11:18 PM.
Can you have someone weld some material to the intake to build up sealing area? Port it somewhere close in size i dont think it will hurt anything
if your talking about the holley intake. the intake runners.. running into the flange.are smaller by a full 1/2"
in this pic you can see they have a space between the runners.
with that space you don't have the room to open up the runners..the tubes are just to small...
in this pic below.. you can see the Siamese runners.. it leaves enough material to open up the runners to port match to the heads.
the above runners on the holley intake are small stock GM runners...at best..like you would see on a LS6 454..rectangle port.
you want to open the runner and bring it down into port.. with the holley intake..ya can't..but it is a nice looking intake...if it was a stock eng it would be fine...(I think)
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-12-2018 at 10:49 PM.
the cast intake above ya can see what I have to work with..i can open them all the way to the top of the runners..inside the intake.
as you can see. the head bolt hole between the runners. are now tapped 1/4 npt.. aluminum plugs on the way..to fill them in.then machine flat..so no vacuum leaks.
BLACK INK IS HEAD PORT
BLUE INK IS INTKE GASKET TO PORT TO.
on the holley intake below you can see I only have the lower lip to work with..and it is limited to the size of runner inside..
you can see what Im talking about.. you would cut into the weld holding the runner tube and the tube it's self is to small. making it a choke point in the runner for My heads.. brodix 380.full prep
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 06-30-2018 at 01:01 PM.
got the Aluminum big block oil pan. and billet Aluminum oil pump.. (both moroso)
all new MSD ignition..right down to the MSD starter NIB ($195) the things ya can dig up if ya just shop..stickers still in the box as well... so close to going crank trigger.. just burned out on shopping for parts to fit...lol (going from sbc to bbc)and keeping the pully style I want..
also picked up a vacuum pump for the power brakes.. also a summit deal $335 vane type. from $385.(got to have my power brakes)
and a march pulley set up for electric water pump on the big block. got $50 off from summit made it $504.. sweet. saved almost $88..with the 2 parts...
Last edited by articwhiteZ; 07-02-2018 at 11:06 PM.
12-31-2017, 03:00 PM
