Just finishing up with motor install in our third gen low buck racing endurance car. This motor will race for 10 to 24 hrs straight, 5k shift point /redline. Mild SB 305 tuned for low rpm torque, headers out thru single 3" exhaust. Melling high pressure, standard volume oil pump. Possibly a bumped out pan, installed baffles and crank scraper in OEM pan. Champion 2 core , 1" tubes radiator.
Original plans were for a remote filter adapter, remote filter, remote oil cooler, acusump. After some late night bench racing sessions we have several old school guys that think this is too much piping resistance to add to the system. At what point is it past the point of benefiting the purpose of filtering, cooling, maintaining flow/pressure? How much piping, fittings, accessories, is too much?
Did do a search of multiple forums here, Found several with similar plans but with no end conclusions. Looking for real world experience, track , engine builder opinion
This a low buck racing. We get penalty laps for high dollar parts so please no high dollar suggestions, This is about reliability, cooling, long term consistency, not power or speed
Thanks
Original plans were for a remote filter adapter, remote filter, remote oil cooler, acusump. After some late night bench racing sessions we have several old school guys that think this is too much piping resistance to add to the system. At what point is it past the point of benefiting the purpose of filtering, cooling, maintaining flow/pressure? How much piping, fittings, accessories, is too much?
Did do a search of multiple forums here, Found several with similar plans but with no end conclusions. Looking for real world experience, track , engine builder opinion
This a low buck racing. We get penalty laps for high dollar parts so please no high dollar suggestions, This is about reliability, cooling, long term consistency, not power or speed
Thanks
I run a Moroso accumulator and a remote mounted System 1 filter. Everything is plumbed with 1/2" lines and I have no issues.
QwkTrip
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Do you even need an Accusump with only 5k rpm redline?
Just personal experience. Driving another SBC motored car at Thunderhill here on the west coast. After a very long fast front straight you enter turn one at about 4000 rpm in fourth gear. Turn one is a very long fast left hand sweeper. I could watch the oil pressure drop to almost zero by mid sweeper. Only to catch up in time for the next two left turns. Now this was a engine of unknown and probably questionable lineage. I'm sure it was just a $400 motor off of Craigslist. It didn't last the weekend. Overheating killed it not specifically oil issues.
Now was it pumping the pan dry? Oil moving out and away from pick-up? Combination of both ? Just trying to make our new motor last. I know an Acusump is like treating the symptoms. But MHO is that it can't hurt. But then again the budget debate comes in. A beautiful Canton road race pan is the about the same money as the Acusump and all the related plumbing. ? I pretty sure I would get more penalty laps for that nice pan on the motor than the piping and an Acusump. I keep checking Craigslist for that golden pan at used prices.
But that gets back to the original question of how much is too much to add to the oiling system?
Now was it pumping the pan dry? Oil moving out and away from pick-up? Combination of both ? Just trying to make our new motor last. I know an Acusump is like treating the symptoms. But MHO is that it can't hurt. But then again the budget debate comes in. A beautiful Canton road race pan is the about the same money as the Acusump and all the related plumbing. ? I pretty sure I would get more penalty laps for that nice pan on the motor than the piping and an Acusump. I keep checking Craigslist for that golden pan at used prices.
But that gets back to the original question of how much is too much to add to the oiling system?
I've heard of that happening to a lot of oval track racers. G-force in the corners forces oil out of the pan and the pressure gauge is constantly going up and down. An accumulator fixes that problem. I'd recommend the 3 quart models unless you're really limited for mounting space.
Technically, I have the same issue in a drag car. At launch all the oil wants to go up the back of the pan. At the end of the track when I'm slowing down, all the oil wants to go to the front of the pan. Baffles in the pan help but don't catch all of it. I also run oil return lines from the back of the heads straight back to the pan. The faster I get the oil back to the pan, the better. At the end of a 1/4 mile at 7400 rpm, there's a lot of oil in the rocker covers. It's all about oil control. With an accumulator, I never notice oil pressure fluctuation. You need to do everything to get the oil back into the pan. No screens in the lifter valley. No plugs in the lifter valley to force oil to the front so it doesn't drip onto the crank etc. Do whatever it takes to get the oil back in the pan and keep it in the sump.
Technically, I have the same issue in a drag car. At launch all the oil wants to go up the back of the pan. At the end of the track when I'm slowing down, all the oil wants to go to the front of the pan. Baffles in the pan help but don't catch all of it. I also run oil return lines from the back of the heads straight back to the pan. The faster I get the oil back to the pan, the better. At the end of a 1/4 mile at 7400 rpm, there's a lot of oil in the rocker covers. It's all about oil control. With an accumulator, I never notice oil pressure fluctuation. You need to do everything to get the oil back into the pan. No screens in the lifter valley. No plugs in the lifter valley to force oil to the front so it doesn't drip onto the crank etc. Do whatever it takes to get the oil back in the pan and keep it in the sump.
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Flat black paint on the aftermarket pan may get past tech.


