Anyone use the Allstar performance 8 pt bar?

Thinking of using this as a starter kit, but will probably re-do the door bars.

Car doesn't have back seats. I'm looking to set the bar as far back as possible while meeting NHRA rules, and then I'm going to also get the door bar to be as close to the door as possible.

Hate to say it but I'm probably going to ditch the GTA door panels for some metal panels with door pulls. If I route the bar basically where the armrest is It will give a guy my size more room.

 

No info on the roll bar, other than I'd probably take my car to a roll bar fabricator and have them build a legal cage for you. Luckily, I have a guy, but our car came with a 6-point when we bought it.

I DO, though, have a set of LRB Speed aluminum door panels, just in case you are interested. Our doors were too far gutted to use these without significant modifications, so we opted to go a different route:

LRB Speed door panels.

 

I do most of my own fabrication in my shop. However, it's way cheaper to buy a pre-bent hoop than it is to bend one up in the shop if it fits well out of the box than it is for me to do it in the shop. They must also be using ERW tubing as well because I also can't buy DOM for what they sell a whole bar kit for...

This car doesn't need a cage, just 10.00 cert.

Those are basically the panels I'd likely get, but probably in matte black.

 

Basic 6/8 point roll bars are made from 1-3/4" tubing. DOM tubing is sold in 0.120 wall thickness and ERW tubing is sold in 0.134 wall thickness. Because of tolerances in how their made, they will both be above the 0.118 minimum wall thickness. My original 6 point cage built by a local chassis builder was made from 1-3/4 tubing however it only had 0.095" wall thickness. Good thing it was never checked.

Once you go to a full roll bar with a-pillar bars and a halo around the roof, The thickest tubes required are 1-5/8 tubing.

My cage started as a basic 8 point roll cage from I think S&W but when I did my back half, the cage greatly expanded. All I really needed from them was the main hoop. I still had a few legal pieces from a previous cage to add to the back half. All the tubes are in specific positions for a reason. They all have a purpose and my chassis is extremely stiff. I pull the front wheels off the ground equally. No body roll.

 

I bought the all-star 8 point "kit". I need to at least get the main hoop and back bars in place because I'm using it to reinforce the floor area . I can run 11.49 for now until the car is dialed in better, then I just need to do the door bar and SFI 16.1 harness. I'll probably talk to tech this spring to see what I can do with the door bar. I know it needs to cross between the shoulder and the elbow, but can it then turn down and turn forward or does it need to maintain the same angle? The illustrations are not really clear.

I think where I'm not using back seats, I can put the main hoop a little more back and up against the headliner. I run the seat far back so I can meet the 6" rule I think with the bar at the B pillar.

 

I have seen door bars come down past the elbow then dip down and run along the sill before connecting to the a-pillar bar. This makes getting in and out of a street car a little easier and still falls within nhra rules. It also clears arm rests.

 

I think with the GTA door panels that would be difficult due to the way they are molded in. I think I'm likely going to switch to the aluminum door panels with some pulls, then I can make the bar tight against the door.

If I do the hoop and rear bars, and hold off on the door bars can I run the car 11.49 and slower with seat belts? Or if they see a main hoop are they going to want it 'completed' regardless of ET ?