Help a poor girl out...
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Everett, WA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS/1992 Camaro RS
Help a poor girl out...
Hey guys, I desperately need help. In February I bought a 90 RS Camaro, a dream of mine since I was 3 years old! I knew it had some issues but it was in a lot better shape for the price than most I had seen. My husband replaced almost every senor, wire, hose, etc. that we could think of. It ran better for a while but now is back to crap. It would bog down so badly. You give it gas and it’s like it doesn’t want to go. Now it’s to the point it will start and then die right away, it’s not drivable. My poor baby has been sitting since June. I think it might be a fuel pump issue but I don’t know how to troubleshoot it. My poor husband works 70 hour weeks and though he’s a good mechanic, we really don’t know Camaros (yet!). I am DESPERATE to get her back on the road for the few weeks of summer left. I just really don’t want to take it to a shop (obviously!) and I’m hoping someone out there can help me. I can’t pay much but will provide all the beer you can drink, some food and a bit of cash. The car is in Woodinville right off highway 9. Please, if you can’t help pass this on to someone who can and make this poor, jobless 21 year olds dream come true. Thanks!

Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati Ohio
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt rear w/3.73 richmond gears
Re: Help a poor girl out...
It could be the fuel pump. You need to check the fuel pressure. This is from another post:
Checking the fuel pressure is very easy. You need to make sure that you get a guage that will read to at least 50 psi. There is a schraeder valve on the passenger side fuel rail. Simply screw the tester onto it like a tire pressure reader, it works almost the same way. Turn the ignition on, and the psi should read 45-47 psi. 47 is ideal, but 45 and 46 is acceptable. If that checks out, fire up the engine. Psi should drop to about 37-39 psi at idle. That will get you started in the right direction.
The pressure shouldn't drop below 30 psi when revving it. It sounds like the fuel pump to me, but you need to check the fuel pressure to verify that. Replacing the fuel pump is not difficult, but time consuming. If you've never done it before, estimate between 5 and 10 hours.
Checking the fuel pressure is very easy. You need to make sure that you get a guage that will read to at least 50 psi. There is a schraeder valve on the passenger side fuel rail. Simply screw the tester onto it like a tire pressure reader, it works almost the same way. Turn the ignition on, and the psi should read 45-47 psi. 47 is ideal, but 45 and 46 is acceptable. If that checks out, fire up the engine. Psi should drop to about 37-39 psi at idle. That will get you started in the right direction.
The pressure shouldn't drop below 30 psi when revving it. It sounds like the fuel pump to me, but you need to check the fuel pressure to verify that. Replacing the fuel pump is not difficult, but time consuming. If you've never done it before, estimate between 5 and 10 hours.
Re: Help a poor girl out...
Does it throw any codes? Have you checked to make sure the TPS isn't dead/misadjusted? It could be fuel related, and like stated replacing it isn't too bad. You need a rather large jack to do it, though. Do you have a Fuel Pressure Gauge?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Everett, WA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS/1992 Camaro RS
Re: Help a poor girl out...
It throws a 34. I don't have a Fuel Pressure Gauge but have no problem buying one to help figure out if that's the problem.
Re: Help a poor girl out...
Your MAP sensor is dead is disconnected I'll bet, it won't run without it. I am going to PM you my phone number, I have a spare MAP sensor we can test it with, get ahold of me and we'll make arangements to meet.
Re: Help a poor girl out...
It is not the fuel pump unless it is clogged and you need to replace your filter. It starts, so it's getting fuel, and then it doesn't go any more, check your air filter, carb for clogs, and retrace your fuel line. Your pump can't be dead because you get fuel!
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: Everett
Car: 92 RS 305, or one of the bikes
Engine: 5.0 L (305 CID)
Transmission: 5 spd Manual
Re: Help a poor girl out...
Okay, here are the things I found and replaced while I had time away from my 70+ hour a week job.
New:
Map, EGR, PCV, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, ECM, Ignition Coil, Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, TPS, IAC, Miles of vaccum line, and some exhaust parts.
One if our problems is that some idiot decided to play cut and splice with some of the wiring (ex. High beams don't work, hatch switch doesn't work, etc) and some of those wires go to the ECM.
Second, it keeps throwing vaccum codes. I have heard around that the chevy 3.1L was notorious for having intake gasket leaks in the rear corner; however, I'm not sure if that is what it is and I'm not going to waste time tearing the intake apart if it isn't needed.
Any helpful second opinions here would be greatly appreciated.
New:
Map, EGR, PCV, Fuel Filter, Air Filter, ECM, Ignition Coil, Plugs, Wires, Cap, Rotor, TPS, IAC, Miles of vaccum line, and some exhaust parts.
One if our problems is that some idiot decided to play cut and splice with some of the wiring (ex. High beams don't work, hatch switch doesn't work, etc) and some of those wires go to the ECM.
Second, it keeps throwing vaccum codes. I have heard around that the chevy 3.1L was notorious for having intake gasket leaks in the rear corner; however, I'm not sure if that is what it is and I'm not going to waste time tearing the intake apart if it isn't needed.
Any helpful second opinions here would be greatly appreciated.
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati Ohio
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt rear w/3.73 richmond gears
Re: Help a poor girl out...
Your pump can't be dead because you get fuel!
Re: Help a poor girl out...
Sadly, yes, but all the times I've had bad fuel pumps, I've not been able to start. It's always been at the flick of a switch that it goes from good to bad, sometimes from good, to noticeably not good but working, to bad.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Everett, WA
Car: 1990 Camaro RS/1992 Camaro RS
Re: Help a poor girl out...
well, I've given up. This car is now for sale, $800 obo and I have to have it gone by Friday night. I paid $1200 for it in Feburary and then dumped probably another $800 into it. This is a great deal for someone who really knows third gen Camaros because it's probably an easy fix but we're more into old cars, all the computer stuff on it has us stumped.
*sigh* maybe i'll have another one, someday. I'm pretty bummed
*sigh* maybe i'll have another one, someday. I'm pretty bummed
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
From: KY
Car: 87IROC, 740iBMW, 328iBMW, 86GMC
Engine: 5.7, 4.4LV8, 2.8, 6.0
Transmission: Manuals & Auto's
Axle/Gears: 3.27, 3.42
Re: Help a poor girl out...
Does it still sport the original catalytic converter? Runs, dies, no power?
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 992
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento, California
Car: 92 RS
Engine: a slow one
Transmission: a crunchy one
Axle/Gears: a whiny one
Re: Help a poor girl out...
^I was going to say the same thing, sounds like a bad catalytic converter
I have a 92 with a 3.1 also, I had the SAME SYMPTOMS last year. New cat fixed the problem.
And the vacuum leak that 3.1's are famous for apply to the FWD 3.1's only (like the 3100 series motors you see in Grand Prix's and newer Impala's and such, but it's the mid to late 90's models that did it)
I have a 92 with a 3.1 also, I had the SAME SYMPTOMS last year. New cat fixed the problem.
And the vacuum leak that 3.1's are famous for apply to the FWD 3.1's only (like the 3100 series motors you see in Grand Prix's and newer Impala's and such, but it's the mid to late 90's models that did it)
Re: Help a poor girl out...

im in everett, i can take a look at it if u want. theres a few maros at pull apart right now, a new ecu is 12bucks, and that can be an issue , if its not you return the ecu.a compression check is a good idea too if u spray starting fluid around the lower intake while its running sometimes it will make the idle jump up if theres a leak. i did a 89 305 intake lower, no picnick 9 hours!
Re: Help a poor girl out...
It's your cat, or cat's if ya have two. I recently had a similar problem, car would not idle for more than 15 seconds, 5 inches of vacume. I thought it was a vacume leak...nope! No codes, compression check was fine, leak down test was fine. I had 2 bad fuel injectors that was my first clue. I purchased new injectors and the car still would not idle. I jacked my Z up, dropped the exhaust @ the headers and it started right up! 17 inches of vacume. I cut my cats....Random tech cats @ that!
$$$. I could not even see through the cats. I gutted them and welded a piece of straght pipe inside them and then welded up the system. Runs like a champ now! Keep us informed on what the problem is!
$$$. I could not even see through the cats. I gutted them and welded a piece of straght pipe inside them and then welded up the system. Runs like a champ now! Keep us informed on what the problem is!
Re: Help a poor girl out...
I have an 87 that had the exact systems and after spending a crap load of time and money it ended up being my catalitic converter. So I punched it out and have never had a problem again until the air mix sensor went. Good luck and dont give up . These are way to good of a car to let go.
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