new here what should i get??
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: tacoma wa
Car: none yet :(
Engine: none yet :(
Transmission: none yet :(
new here what should i get??
well duh a 3rd gen they are the best...but year/make? camaro has it's looks for all years...but i do really like the 90-92 firebird so what do you guys think?
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Hilo, HI
Car: 82 Trans Am
Engine: Pro Flo Injected 355
Transmission: BW Super T10 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/3.50
I like the style of all of the birds. I only like the later camaros though. If i was to look for a third gen now, id probably go for a 85 and up maro or an 85 and up trans am.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,168
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From: Marietta, GA
Car: '91 Firebird Convertible
Engine: 305 TBI (LO3)
Transmission: 700r4, Vette Servo
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 Bolt, PBR disks
Re: new here what should i get??
Originally posted by TS21
well duh a 3rd gen they are the best...but year/make? camaro has it's looks for all years...but i do really like the 90-92 firebird so what do you guys think?
well duh a 3rd gen they are the best...but year/make? camaro has it's looks for all years...but i do really like the 90-92 firebird so what do you guys think?
Banshee roolz.
Camaro or Firebird is your personal preferance. If you like the 90-92 Birds, then go for that style. The 90-92 3rd gens are pretty much the best ones. I would recommend a hardtop because the t-top cars are more prone to leaks. Try to find one with a documented history to you know it was well kept. As far as options, become familiar with the RPO codes. You can find these 3 digit codes in the center console (sticker is under the console lid), or in the compartment in the rear hatch drivers side of the car (again, on a sticker on the lid). These RPO codes identify what options the car came with. Always keep in mind that people might have changed stuff after they bought the car, so just because the RPO code is there dosnt mean the car actually has that stuff. So you'll want to find the good RPO's, then you'll want to pull the ID numbers off the parts (block ID or rearend ID for example). This will also clue you in as to weather or not everything is original factory equipment (which is usually what you want when buying a car). The RPO's cover pretty much everything, from colors to engine specs, rearend specs, etc. Another thing to check out is the VIN. The 8th digit represents the engine, and all the matching numbers and stuff are in the tech section of thirdgen.org. Here are some RPO's to look for:
L98 and B2L identify the 350ci (5.7ltr) TPI motor
LB9 identifies the 305ci (5.0ltr) TPI motor
G92 identifies the top model rearend (has posi and better gears)
FE2 identifies the top model suspension package
J65 identifies the good brake setup.
L98 and B2L identify the 350ci (5.7ltr) TPI motor
LB9 identifies the 305ci (5.0ltr) TPI motor
G92 identifies the top model rearend (has posi and better gears)
FE2 identifies the top model suspension package
J65 identifies the good brake setup.
If you like to work on cars, I know of a good project down in Battleground that you could pick up if you're interested in fixing it first.
It's a black '90 formula, you're choice of 15" interlaced wheels or 16" formula wheels (or both), leather, but only an auto 305 carb that was rebuilt a few years ago. It was swapped into a tbi car and I guess the wiring was never completed. Probably needs whatever fuel system work that's required for the swap, because I don't think that was done.
You probably don't want that mess though, but if you want pics you can look around here. photos.yahoo.com/thirdgenblackbird
I would have taken that car already if I was up in WA.
Otherwise, I recommend a later year pontiac with WS6 (suspension, all formulas and GTA's had them) and stay away from TBI's.
Scott
It's a black '90 formula, you're choice of 15" interlaced wheels or 16" formula wheels (or both), leather, but only an auto 305 carb that was rebuilt a few years ago. It was swapped into a tbi car and I guess the wiring was never completed. Probably needs whatever fuel system work that's required for the swap, because I don't think that was done.
You probably don't want that mess though, but if you want pics you can look around here. photos.yahoo.com/thirdgenblackbird
I would have taken that car already if I was up in WA.
Otherwise, I recommend a later year pontiac with WS6 (suspension, all formulas and GTA's had them) and stay away from TBI's.
Scott
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: tacoma wa
Car: none yet :(
Engine: none yet :(
Transmission: none yet :(
ya i like working on cars battle ground eh?? i have no idea where it is. but i'll look around. i want a good dailey that gets good gas milage and is a auto...would i need a 6 cyl?? i shure hope not
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From: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
Although Scott will probably flame me, I never cared for the rounded looks of the last of the Firebirds. I liked the sharp angular lines of the 82's all the way up until 1990, then they changed it for '91 and '92. However, as the later cars ARE newer, you might have better luck finding one that has lower mileage, and thus wear and tear. I find Camaro's to be all over the place, so I kinda don't like them as much as the 'Birds. My personal preference. Yours may vary, of course. A TPI car has great oomph and decent torque, and if it's in a good state of tune, it gets around 20 MPG's or so, even the 350 L98's.
Although not quite the '57 Chevy of the 21st Century, 3rd gens are pretty cheap, plentiful and they're easy to work with, if you have patience, time, and the facilities to do it. (Meaning, not me.
)
Although not quite the '57 Chevy of the 21st Century, 3rd gens are pretty cheap, plentiful and they're easy to work with, if you have patience, time, and the facilities to do it. (Meaning, not me.
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From: previously OKINAWA JAPAN,georgia, now new england
Car: 1989 IROC--1989 T/A
Engine: 5.7 TPI in both
Transmission: W/C T-5 in both
Axle/Gears: B/W 3.27 in both
well, thats the ticket
though being in the great north west shipping will be a problem. By the way i was up there at the AFB till 2 years ago. I still have my IROC out in ORTING sitting in storage.
LATERS
though being in the great north west shipping will be a problem. By the way i was up there at the AFB till 2 years ago. I still have my IROC out in ORTING sitting in storage.LATERS
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From: tacoma wa
Car: none yet :(
Engine: none yet :(
Transmission: none yet :(
okay well my and my dad were talking about it and he said to get a early berlenitta (spelling just a warning i cant spell worth ****) with the V6 and a auto
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From: Calgary
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: Tree Fiddy (modded)
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by TS21
okay well my and my dad were talking about it and he said to get a early berlenitta (spelling just a warning i cant spell worth ****) with the V6 and a auto
okay well my and my dad were talking about it and he said to get a early berlenitta (spelling just a warning i cant spell worth ****) with the V6 and a auto
lol, heres what they can do (this is mine)
http://www.forshockdesign.net/83camaro83.wmv
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,710
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From: Huntington Beach, CA
Car: 87 IROC 92 Z-28 91 Ragtop
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700-r4
Originally posted by TS21
okay well my and my dad were talking about it and he said to get a early berlenitta (spelling just a warning i cant spell worth ****) with the V6 and a auto
okay well my and my dad were talking about it and he said to get a early berlenitta (spelling just a warning i cant spell worth ****) with the V6 and a auto
Your dad is probably focused on lower insurance rates and driver safety. Having had both V6 and V8 Camaros, I can assure you it takes a lot more discipline to drive the V8's conservatively. My son's first car at age 15 was a '91 V6 Camaro RS -- a year later it was replaced with a 5.7 Z28 '92 that he has been driving for four years without incident [good driver instructor & good student driver].
Just make sure you drive both the Z28/IROC and RS's to know what you're getting into before purchase. Otherwise, you might end-up unhappy.
<i><b>Highly</i></b> recommend against a v6, but it's your call.
Gas mileage won't be a large difference, but insurance might. I pay 250~350 every six months for insurance, depending on tickets, but with almost minumum coverage. That's with my "v6" with a 350. I also had to tell 'em I drive about 800 miles a year though. (Which isn't far from the truth thanks to wiring issues....)
Good luck, and let me know if you need parts. My cousin is in battleground (near Vancouver), if you don't mind the drive.
Scott
Gas mileage won't be a large difference, but insurance might. I pay 250~350 every six months for insurance, depending on tickets, but with almost minumum coverage. That's with my "v6" with a 350. I also had to tell 'em I drive about 800 miles a year though. (Which isn't far from the truth thanks to wiring issues....)
Good luck, and let me know if you need parts. My cousin is in battleground (near Vancouver), if you don't mind the drive.
Scott
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From: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
If you must get a V6, get the later ones, as they have the 3.1 in them instead, and they make more torque and horsepower, not to mention, they're newer cars. The 3800's they put in the base late-4th gen cars are pretty good, a much more modern design then the venerable 2.8-3.1 ones. Some do the 3.4 swap from the early 4th gen cars, and they seem to work okay. I haven't actually seen one, though, as most rip out the V6 and stuff a V8 under the hood. Far easier to just go out and buy a V8 car, then to try to save money and get a sixer and do a swap, as that takes time and a bunch of parts to do.
It all depends on what you want out of the car, though. V6 cars tend to handle better, as their weight bias is better then the V8 cars. Of course, there's something to be said about the torque a V8 makes...
It all depends on what you want out of the car, though. V6 cars tend to handle better, as their weight bias is better then the V8 cars. Of course, there's something to be said about the torque a V8 makes...
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From: previously OKINAWA JAPAN,georgia, now new england
Car: 1989 IROC--1989 T/A
Engine: 5.7 TPI in both
Transmission: W/C T-5 in both
Axle/Gears: B/W 3.27 in both
another thing
Most new folks to the sports car world also neglect a very important fact. A 6 banger DOES NOT get better gas mileage, when figgering ANY SPIRITED driving. It will take 2X more pedal to get going than an 8 cylinder. They just do not have the torque to SHOVE a 3500 lbs car downa a straight raod , let alone hills(read most of washington state)
I have driven both, and you may find yourself at a an expensive cross road, a year from now.
BUY ONCE AND BUY IT RIGHT, ANDYOU LIKE T-TOPS GET'EM
shawn
I have driven both, and you may find yourself at a an expensive cross road, a year from now.
BUY ONCE AND BUY IT RIGHT, ANDYOU LIKE T-TOPS GET'EM
shawn



