Whats up you guys? Im having a weird problem. All of a sudden my car wont even attempt to turn over. Its not even turning to start. Ill turn the key and the fan blows, radio comes on, everything works except the ignition. I replaced the ignition switch earlier so i doubt it could be that. I havent checked the starter yet but i havent seen any signs that the starter would be going out. Its an 89 camaro...im not sure if it has the VATS or not but i did break my ignition key recently and had to get another made. Its been working fine for the past 2-3 weeks and all of a sudden it wont turn past on...any suggestions guys? Im really lost here.

 

Oh wow, I have the EXACT same thing going on with my 91 right now. I'm stuck right where you are. Best of luck to you, and if I figure something out, i'll let you know!

 

vats more likely... do a search there are tons of info, now question is. do you want a permanent solition? get a bypass module (not juat a resistor) and bypass the starter enable relay and call it a day. will start right up everitime even without the vats module working, if you just get the resistor, but the actual module doesnt work that it wont do any good.

 

Where could I find the bypass module? Is it something a local parts store would have? How hard are they to install? Did camaros have the VATS in 89? Sorry 4 the barrage of questions I just really need to get this fixed asap

 

if your key has a chip you have vats, theres a somewhat cheap module on ebay. it works cuz ive used it, painless sells one but its almost 60 buks. piece of cake to istall

 

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/el...6154-vats.html

 

I'm not sure but I don't think my key has one or atlases I haven't noticed it. If it's not vats any other suggestions?

 

have you jumped the starter to see if it turns?

 

Na I havent tried that...someone mentioned jumping to the purple wire but all that did was make that beep and the security light come on. Which wire is the starter wire?

 

wait wait wait.... is your security light on? thats a redflag for the vats circuit... have you gotten any codes? jump terminals a-b on the aldl plug with a paperclip to read them

 

You say your key doesn't turn past "ON"? That sounds like a mechanical probelm in the mechanism between the cylinder and the actual ignition switch. The switch itself is mounted on the steering column just above the brake pedal. The cylinder turns a gear which acts on a rack to move a rod that runs down to move the switch. If your key wont turn past on, you may have a broken or misadjusted part in this mechanism.

Before you replace any parts, use a 12v test light to check for power at the large red wires at the ignition switch. Then while turning the key, check for power at the yellow wire at the switch. If you have power at the yellow wire while turning the key, proceed to bypassing the VATS. Be aware, in order for the bypass module to work, you will need to jump the start enable relay by connecting a jumper between the large yellow wire and the large green wire. The start enable relay is behind the driver's side kick panel.

Your car may or may not have had VATS. The Passkey antitheft system was introduced in 89 but early production vehicles may not have it. Did your original key have the resistor pellet(not a chip, just a peice of carbon resistor material)?

 

cars wothout vats dnt have a security light (as far as i know)

 

I replaced the switch on the column already and it's still the same. I'll have to check the original key when I get back to the car. I hope I don't have to order the vats bypass...if so I'll be without a vehicle a few days

 

one question?? why did you replaced the ignition switch before??? you might have a short frying the switch and it just failed again.

 

If your car has a security light, it has VATS. If the key you've used in the past doesn't have the resistor pellet, your VATS may have been bypassed already. As juanillox8 mentioned above, if the system was bypassed using the cheaper "resistor bypass", the module itself may have subsequently failed. The ignition switch tests I gave you will show if it's in the switch. Testing the starter as juanillox8 instructed will isolate it to the wiring or VATS.

 

Here's a starter troubleshoot guide: http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=38

Here's info on VATS:
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats

Save these links - great info:
https://www.thirdgen.org/technical-articles
http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=2

It only costs a dollar to get a resistor to bypass VATS, and Radio Shack has them. Chances are rare that the module goes bad, 98% of the time it's the key and cylinder. Given the $1 and 20 minutes of time, much better to at least try the resistor bypass first. My 1997 Z28 has been bypassed this way for 3+ years now with no issues.

 

I'd say check the ignition switch first and go from there because of thats the problem than no mattwr what you do to bypas the VATS the car won't start.

 

Ok I'll try what I can when I get home and keep u guys posted

 

Does your car even making a "click" sound if you try to start it? Is your security light on? If the light is on and it is totally silent when trying to start it , not even a click , then it is VATS without a doubt. If you are getting just one click when you try to start it , then jump the starter with a large screwdriver and try to start the car.

 

No click...it sounds like its is VATS as the key wont even turn to start at all...ill have to get out there and see if i can find where it was bypassed and what i need to do to fix it...where should i be looking for the bypass module/resistor if there is one?

 

Another question...on the column there are two rods...the one that goes in the ignition switch and another that goes into some other part. What is the second rod and what controls it? It feels like its kinda loose where it goes into the steering wheel

 

i was about to ask you about that rod, did u connected back to the switch when u replaced it? the other one is for the park neutral switch

 

have some one move the shifter from P-N-2 while you look at the rod, it should move along with the shifter up and down.

 

There's only 2 rods in the steering column - one from key cylinder to the ignition switch on top of the column under the gauges, and one from turn signal lever to the ho/lo beam switch above the brake pedal. The PARK safety is a cable that runs to the ignition switch, not a rod.

Am I understanding that your key will not turn the key cylinder at all? If that's the case, you have an issue with the key, the key cylinder, the rod to the ignition switch, or the ignition switch itself. Until the ignition switch can be turned to ON, you'll never be able to trace a VATS problem, or starter problem, or anything else.

 

thats right, my bad i forgot, the other one IS for the hi beams

 

I know there is a simple method. It involves testing your key with a multimeter and cutting some orange wire with a white plastic connector under your dash and then using a 99 cent resistor from radio shack to bypass the vats. I will send you the links if i can find them. Later

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ss-module.html

check out that link. Also if worse comes to worse you can always try the $20 vats bypass modules on ebay.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKfn7J9CeZM
There you go dude
watch that simple video

 

I didnt see any resistor or anything when i looked but when i re installed the new ignition switch everything started working fine. I appreciate the help you guys

 

why did you replaced the ignition switch ?? you might have a short frying the switch and it just failed again

 

I've gone through three different third gen steering columns...

If your engine wont turn over the most common problem I've seen is essentially corroded battery terminals. More often than not, its the negative connection between the starter and the neg battery terminal. Try wire brushing all your connections. Or you can run a heavy gauge wire from one of your starter bolts directly to your Neg battery terminal.

I think you mentioned not being able to physically turn the key to the start position? That would be a mechanical problem, nothing to do with VATS. I would look for a chipped piece of metal on the key cylinder side of the ignition switch rod. It might mean pulling your steering column though, which is a pain but not too bad. It could also be debris in the ignition switch itself.

In the mean time, measure the resistance off the chip in your key with a voltmeter. Then, buy a resistor with as close a resistance as possible and splice it onto the end of the orange wire that runs from the firewall side of your wiring harness. This tricks the VATS box into always thinking the proper key is in the ignition.

Good Luck.

 

It's possible that your new ignition switch just slipped out of adjustment. Did you notice that the screw holes are slotted? Did you get them tight enough? Perform the voltage tests at the switch as I told you earlier and go from there.