Okay guys, heres the deal. Before anyone asks I have no history on my car, and realize this was a mistake to buy a built car without it. I tried EVERYTHING to get info, but nothing. I bought this car and right away noticed it has a huge lack of power for having a 383 stroker, and a paxton supercharger. Well I took it to a performance shop, and one of the lifters was so bad you could push it in on cylinder 8. Took it all apart and the cam was messed up too. So I got the whole nine yards replaced as you can see in the title. While the supercharger was offwe noticed it was hard to turn the pulley( approx. 65 pounds) and I personally called Craig at Paradise wheels and he said to send it in. Someone tried to rebuild it and put to big of springs, so I upgraded to a SN2000 from a SN90. Everything was installed and I got it on the Dyno and there was a pinging noise, so I got some higher grade gas, and still there. The mech was stumped, so I wasnt happy after spending over $3500. I figured if this is your profession you should know what you did b/c it wasnt making this noise prior. I took the valves off myself and the cylinder(8) has a really noticably loose valve, and it was the same one that was bad before. SO WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK??
I have a new appt at a Hot Rod shop on thursday, and am having her towed there, but Im just looking for input. THANKS IN ADVANCE, I WILL UPDATE THIS THREAD THROUGHOUT THE PROCESS OF REPAIRS

Here is a video of the car on, and running with the pinging


HERES THE LOOSE VALVE

 

no one?

 

hard to say without hands on... did you try readjusting the valves?
Id assume the guy checked for bent pushrods,valves,etc..
pulled out stud? screw in studs,? etc...

 

Well in the second video you can see that one being really loose, there are some that are so tight that you cant move them, and some that slightly move. So the mech definatly didnt tighten them all the same. I would assume he did check too, but it definatly wasnt making this noise prior to the new stuff, it was just slow as hell

 

screw in rocker are studs or press in? what type of heads on the engine?

 

You need to check/adjust the valves when the piston is at TDC.

and all the thing TPI383 wrote needs to be checked.

 

You need to re-adjust your valves. It looks like the intake valve is completely closed, so all that tells me is your mechanic only did a cold adjustment while the motor was on the stand. Some times you get a lazy lifter but very rare. If all valve train components are new, you more than likely don't need to do what 383TPI has suggested. But it still won't hurt!! Now that you have the valve cover off place a trimmed piece of card board inside the head so you don't get oil everywhere and start the car up, make sure all vacuum ports are plugged off and start adjusting your valves beginning with the loose one first to see if the noise goes away. If so then continue with your adjustment while the car is still running by back off the nut until you hear it start tapping then tighten it back up just enough for the tapping to stop and then tighten an additional 1/4 to 1/2 turn. That should fix you up.

 

I will look at it at about 3pm. Thanks

 

No clue on anything on it

 

So all my replys are pretty much telling me to check the valves and tighten them. I will get on it at 3pm

 

decided I dont know if Im up for this. On a scale of one to ten how complex would you say it is to adjust the valves w/o having done it before?

 

Sure you can do it, don't cop out on us now. How do you think majority of the mechanics out here got started. They had to start somewhere. Just take your time and start off like I stated this morning. You do fine!!!!!

 

well if you over tighten them you'll bend pushrods and if you dont get them tight enough it'll run like crap.. if it runs.. do a search on adjusting the valves.. its pretty straight forward.. good luck....

 

Its very easy....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89o5rLpbCgI

 

deal.. im on my way to autozone. need to adjust my plugs too. should i strip my motor down till it looks like that in the video?

 

No, just bring the engine to top dead center, and start on number one. After you finish number one, then continue on with the rest of them in firing order. Since you can't see the lifter because the intake manifold is on, keep an eye on the intake rocker arm for the very next set (in this case it would be number eight), as it should be higher than the exhaust rocker's number eight. Rotate the engine until the intake rocker number eight meets the exhaust rocker number eight, then proceed adjsuting lash. Keep doing this until all rocker arms are adjusted, but remember, do this in the firing order starting with number one at top dead center. Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2....

If your still confused, ask questions first....

 

this is just a lot of info im reading and i am worried i just wish i had someone here to talk me through it. I have a lot invested in this car and am nervous as hell i am going to damage more stuff

 

I would feel the same way if I was in your situation. People are telling you how to set the lifters when in fact you never said if it is a mechanical or hydraulic cam. The methods for adjusting the valves is very different so yeah you could mess up more stuff.
For the cost of the valve adjust and how much you already spent I would just have someone with the knowledge do it.

 

flat tappet or roller. Same process. now if its SOLID its diff.

Im gonna guess its hydraulic rollers.

to many diff. ways to do it. all are easy.........

That being said all the above are right also.. Here are a few listed out for future readers. Ive used these ways with good results.

get #1 at TDC then......

I hold the pushrod between two fingers lifting the pushrod up and down while slowly tightening. When you reach the point where there is no up and down movement you will be at ‘0’ lash. Then I go 3/4 turn. DO THIS TO ALL OF THEM!!! I do all one side and then all the other.

Turn over by hand 360* adjust the loose rockers again. the same way as above. (should be 4 loose one) put valve covers on and done. You should be good to go

The problem with spinning the pushrod and attempting to get the correct ‘feel’ is that you can and will still be able to spin the pushrod even if you bottom out the lifter. This can cause you to over tighten the adjustment and can lead to bent and / or broken pushrods and valves.


I use to have a set of valve covers with the center cut out just enough to adjust the valves. Not as much of a mess as with out one.

and did it this way...

 

There were two reasons for the hydraulic lifter assumption. The first, of course, being that they were able to press in all the way on one of the lifters on cylinder 8 before being replaced by the shop. The second was from the video, as the valvetrain does not sound like a solid lifter setup with just that one rocker arm clacking like that. If it is a solid lifter setup though, and I really doubt that it is, then you will need a feeler gauge at zero lash and feel for around .004" to .008" clearance as opposed to going that extra half a turn....

 

Yes it is overwelming, but on saturday I think Im going to make a day out of it. once i get this taken care of, then I have to get the timing adjusted

 

Whats up man. Ask the mechanic the type of cam that was just installed. He should know.

 

Just called him, I asked if he replaced the timing chain and he said "yes, those things are screwy in there" which makes me wonder if he knows he didnt do something right.

Type of cam is comp cam 268H heres a link to its specs > http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=73&sb=2

He didnt know the timing he left it at, said maybe 12 degrees

Didnt know the compression ratio

 

It sounds like a bunch of little things that are just adding up to make your car not perform the way you want it to. All the methods above are usefull, but if your like me it is easy to think about the basic mechics of your motor.

At the end of the day you want the rocker arm play to be adjusted to zero and about a half turn more when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam.

How do you know whne the lifter is on the base circle of the cam. THis will be when the rockers are at their highest position. So watch the rockers as you turn the engine over by hand. When the rocker comes to its highest point its time to adjust. If it is pushing down on the valve spring leave it alone. You will begine to realize that there are multiple rockers that can be adjusted on each revolution.

I see the car is still fuel injected. So if that is the case you need to find out how it is programmed, and what the base timing is set to in wahtever ECM is controlling the fueling, and that is what the initial timing needs to be set to.. If you cannot find this out, you will need to get the ECM programmed by somebody that can tell you things like initial timing.

Another good investment would be a Wide Band O2. The last thing you want to do is run a forced induction motor with no idea of how it was tuned without being able to monitor the AFR. If it goes over 14.7:1 at cruise or les than 12:1 under acceleration, it needs tuned or you will damage it eventually.

 

ok the ticking was a loose rocker arm. what should timing be on my car? i have a buddy here with a timing gun now

 

If it is stock timiing it should be 6 degrees otherwise it is what ever someone set it to in the ECU. If you are using the stock ECU you need to disconnect the bypass wire before setting the timing.

 

im going to wait till monday now for the timing. it definatly was that rocker arm, when i started it there was no noise, now it is coming back a little at a time which makes me think i should replace all of them(since the mech didnt) and/or it could just be my timing needing adjustment..

 

What is your oil pressure? Alos look at the studs they are mounted on or take a picture and show us. If they are not screw in studs they may be working out of the head.

 

they are screw in and my oil pressure is at 30 pounds at about 1000rpm...

the boost gauge is at -15 at idle ???

 

yeah that would be 15" of vaccum at idle.. thats actually pretty good... that cant be to much of a cam they put in it

 

he said it was a mild cam. hes an idiot and im fixing his mess(or at least trying to)

 

so after finding out it was a bad rocker arm, i am looking up roller rocker kits. i am at summit.com and looking up comp cams part CCA-1418-16
the rocker arms are comp cams now so should i get the same kind you think? i have a check out ready to be paid for, this is what i have in checkout roller rocker kit part #CCA-1418-16, perma-lock rocker arm adjusters part #ARP-300-8241, and pushrods part #CCA-7808-16. my total after shipping is $301. is there a cheaper route that is just as good? thanks

 

picture of my roller rocker now

http://i764.photobucket.com/albums/x...b_usmc/268.jpg

 

What makes you think that rocker arm is bad??? I don't see anything alarming in the picture.

I am a little concerned. If the part number of the rocker arms you sent are exactly what is on your motor then you may have an issue. The ones you posted a link to are self aligning and you have pushrod guide plates. Using the two in tandem sometimes works but sometimes can lead to binding or the valvetrain.

Also with guide plates I would recommend chromoly pushrods. You should see what you have in the motor. Pushrods are not always a standard size. You need to rotate the engine by hand and make sure the rocker are travels only on the valve tip preferably centered. If it doesn't you pushrods could be the wrong lenght and the intake will need to come off and you will need to measure for pushrods, then order. If they do check out, you can measure your current pushrod and order that size.

Note if the pushrods are the wrong length as the engine warms up you may hear slight tapping from the rockers rolling off the edge of the valve tip. This is BAD!

If you are going to cahnge out rocker arms might as well go full roller.

I haved used these in two budget builds with success
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G6906/

 

okay good information to know Dave. I like those ones, I was just looking at something in comparison to the ones on mine. If my push rods were fine prior to the new cam(no tapping) do you think they are the right length now? I hope so b/c otherwise I dont know who can measure them for me. I would think there right.

 

and do you know if they can clear center bolt valve covers?

 

They clear the aftermarket aluminum ones in Jegs. For a rough check on your pushrods, have a buddy turn the engine over and just confirm the roller stays on the valve tip through the whole motion of the rocker arm. If that is the case you should be fine.

 

okay i will look at that..

 

i just ordered the single socker arm it will be here wednesday. I am going to throw it on and do the timing then store the car for winter. Come march I will replace the rest of the arms/pushrods and call it a day. I will update you guys on the outcome.

Oh Dave, I saw the tall valve covers in Jegs, I will order them, I just want to double check the measurements to make sure they will fit in there..

Thanks

Nick

 

Ok, I adjusted every valve tight then 3/4 turn. Now I have a loud metal on metal noise that happens when I accelerate fast. I have attached a video that is in the movement(at night) and I dont know what that could be. I dont know but it didnt do this prior to my cam/valves/lifters and I thought it had to do with my rocker arms, but now that there tightened I am lost. Any advise?
It doesnt do it in park, only in drive while moving, and I havent done timing or anything yet, so at idle it will stall out half the time and my SES light comes on also.

I know this is alot of info, any questions just ask. Id like to get this figured out, I am hoping its not my piston skirts or anything. Video isnt best but here ya go.

http://s764.photobucket.com/albums/x...-01-58_685.mp4

 

ok PARK the car adjust your timing!!!!!! is really sounds like some serious spark knock

 

Yeah I do need to asap. I hope that is it and not a broken piston skirt. Thanks for the advise

 

if u keep running it a piston skirt wont be your problem... it'll be a hole through the top of the piston.... good luck man

 

thanks.. yeah it has been stalling out a lot also

 

U need a real mechanic. Trailer that puppy down to the island, Garantee you will be driving it home with a big SMILE.

 

thats what John said. I just dropped it off to this mechanic at this shop HOT RODS up here. I know him through people, took him for a test drive and he is going to double check all my work I did and do the timing and adjust the tps and something else. He said it sounds like a detonation issue so my fingers are crossed. Im going to come to "The Island" next year, you have my word. I have family and want to come on a big meet.

Nick

 

bump what has happend here ?

 

Looks like it ended badly:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...rger-sale.html

He's selling his supercharger...

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ers-again.html


Makes you wonder if the earlier poster in this thread was onto something catching self-aligning rockers setup on guideplates...

 

wow crazy, it sucks when you have love and passion for some thing ie. a car and it just treats you like poop