What I am looking for is to build a 600 hp motor. Should I go with one big turbo or two smaller turbo's? Or should I get a vortec supercharger. This is also going to be a non computer controlled motor with a Holley 750 on it.

I need to know what compression to use. What cam to use. which intake. I know these turbo motors are making lots of power so 600 streetable hp should be possible with a 350.

I currently am using N2O and am very curious about the turbos and am wanting to learn more. Any info will be appreciated.

 

I'm not gonna offer a motor idea to ya cause it would be a 6 cylinder but I can tell you 600hp with a 350 should be very easy and extreamly streetable with a turbo,I say this cause my motor should make about 650hp with two less cylinders and is perfectly happy on the street(was out cruising with it today )

Steve

 

If ur going with a 350 motor, make sure its a 4 bolt main, have it manuflexed, Order a set of Dart or Brodix stage 1 heads, cam of your choosing and go with a Procharger setup. Vortech blowers are a no no

 

What the hell does THAT mean?

 

manuflexed

Close, man. It's "magnafluxed".

For a reliable 600hp carbureted engine, I would build a 10.0:1 406" small-block using a production block. Vortech and ATI both offer good blower units for carbed applications. By running a slightly higher compression ratio, you will be able to run a conservative 10-12psi worth of boost pressure. Ask a good head porter/builder about the advantages of running higher compression and lower boost... With proper secondary jetting, there will be no need for an intercooler. While an intercooler will help drop ambient air temperature slightly, there will not be a significant change to justify the added cost and fitment issues.

FWIW, I ran 10.79 ET's using a 383", 10.5:1 engine. I used a seriously WUSSY camshaft profile, stock rods, cast crank, and an old-azz used Vortech A-trim pullied for 8psi.

 

ahhh No a motor with a compression of 10.1 running 12psi will not only detonate but Blow up. Psi is limited to compression, the lesser the compression the more psi the motor can handle. Procharger systems are better than Vortech's. They use Intercoolers unlike Vortech and dont require any ignition retarding.

 

Six Hundred HP Boosted motor? That's easy, ask us for twice that to challenge us . Go for a a 383, AFR 195's or comparable heads, 9:1 compression, hydraulic roller cam around 224/230 @.05, and the base procharger unit will give you around 600 hp no problem

 

I have a 350 block crank and rods ready to be built and would rather do that than to get another crank and stuff. So would the Procharger with afr's and 9:1 compression on a 350 still get that for me?

 

LOL......this coming from a person who's built A LOT of motors right?

oh wait.......you haven't even run your **** at the track yet

Go build yourself a few motors and then go make dumb statements? cool?

 

Sure, you'd get it with a 350, just a little higher in the rpm band. I just like the 383 for the torque increase, but if you've got the parts already the 350 will do it for ya.

As for the compression thing, I have built alot of motors, and since we're talking about a carbureted app here 10:1 with 12 psi of boost could be pushing the detonation envelope a bit, depending on spark retard, gas, and heads of course. Fuel injection would of course allow for greater compression or boost levels without detonation.

So I wouldn't be talking about dumb statements, even if he was wrong correcting him politely would get you a lot more respect than being rude.

 

You are a fool. With proper timing settings and fuel enrichment, the well-built motor can live all day. My Formula used 42# injectors, 15psi unintercooled, and 10.5:1 slugs. I ran 93 octane gas and NEVER detonated. Cast rods, cast crank, no head studs, and it never "blew up". The same train of thought can apply to carbed motors. FYI, 10:1 compression is NOT a lot of compression...

And the lower the compression the more SLUGGISH the car is when not under boost! Duh. Centrifugal blowers make max boost at redline (linear curve). Your car would be less powerful until higher rpm's than the higher compression car. Again, ask an EXPERT. Re-read my statement:

"Ask a good head porter/builder about the advantages of running higher compression and lower boost... "

You will also run higher cylinder head temperatures when running low compression and high boost. Compressed air will raise temps closer to detonation than you think. Save your heads. Ask a professional porter, he will explain it to you as one did to me. My ex-employer is a turbocharging and fuel-injection expert. He has turboed MANY carbed vehicles as well. I am speaking from advice given to me by him.

You fail to realize that this is for a CARBED application. The only real fuel enrichment comes from the secondary jetting. It would take some TRICKY carb jetting to properly feed high-boost applications on a low-compression motor. It would be MUCH easier to tune a mild-compression engine using mild boost levels.

That is THE most retarded statement I have heard all week. Congratulations, you win the crown. :sillylol: You actually think one system is "better" than another simply due to the lack of an intercooler? ADD ONE. What about the trim options? What about the internal construction? What about reliability? What about the boost curve? What about a LOT of things. Do you know WHY they don't "require" ignition retard? If you want maximum power from your ATI blower, you will STILL need ignition retard to run higher boost levels...

Please do NOT give people advice unless you know what you are talking about. You might cause someone a lot of wasted money and excessive grief...

 

???



Anyways, Like a few others here stated, if your setup is right, you can run higher compression on pump gas with boost no problems.

On another note, there will not be any lag on a 383 12 PSI setup at 8:5:1 either, if setup properly. I actually went this route for my daily driver Z-28 and with 8:5:1 and 12 psi, one car I put together hit 500 ft. lbs torque at 3000 rpms.

I have installed several different types of kits and personally think the Vortech kits are very high quality. I personally would not touch a P-600 kit with a 10 foot pole, but do like the ATI D-1 setups..

Oh yeah, to answer your question, do some research and you should have no problems hitting those numbers, just takes some serious money and time.

 

This should be mentioned for all the folks new to this board. If you want to learn about turbocharging your _______ (fill in the blank), pick up Corky Bell's book "Maximum Boost" and "Turbochargers" by Hugh MacInnes. It'll educate you much faster than a few posts on the board

Andris

 

If you have to get just one, the book by Hugh G. Rection...er...Hugh MacInnes is the better of the two. Good call, Andris!

 

How many times has this tidbit of advise been given out?

I've had a copy of "Turbochargers" since 1992. I bought a new one in 2000.

I've had "Maximum Boost" since it was released.

Im just waiting until I pay the GTP off before I take my turn to play...

 

They should really make a sticky at the top that has these books listed. It should also say do a search, since every week somebody asks the same question about turbocharging their Camaro.

Oh yeah, my copy of Turbochargers is from 1976, things older than I am. Out of curiosity, does anyone know if the newer printings have any new information? I saw one at the book store but it looked to have the same info but with different pics.

 

here is my favorite turbo thread https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...threadid=99267

 

Hey guys, will the procharger P600B give me what I'm looking for? I found one for about $1800.00.

 

Check out this page, has all the specs on the procharger models
http://www.procharger.com/models.html

 

dont tell this guy http://www.outlawperformance.com/93mustang513hp.html his motor is 10.25 to one, and he uses a vortech. he drives it every day he can to work (since 2000), it makes 530 RWHP now, it made 521 RWHP then and still uses pump gas.

 

looks like the car should've made more....whats up with those spikes on the dyno?

detonation or spinning the wheels on the rollers

 

detonation?-LOL, that is FMU oscillation, it is very visible on the A/F vs. torque display. the new vortech power cooler flattened it right out anyway.

 

ok, i'm not really good at reading graphs yet sorry. They just looked spikey and from what i was told that usually is detonation sometimes when the wheels spin on the rollers and then it charts it weird

 

that is okay because I have only seen 1 car spin the tires on the dyno, and it kinda looked like that. I though you were slighting me, but its cool. As for the car that slipped the drum, we just cinched down the straps more and she didnt slip no more, and this is why she slipped it and what the dyno finally read:

 

WTF was that???

 

What would be good turbo's to slap on a 355 for a tt setup. I was thinking about getting a pair of GN turbos.

 

A pair of GN turbo's would work if you could get them. Otherwise you might want to look for 5-speed turbocoupe turbos from like 84-86. Those are what I'm going to be using.

 

damn it, nevermind, the pic won't post

 

My arch nemeses, my competition, and the car I must beat on the street if not at the track… my business partner at our shop, and #9 qualifier at last year’s Phoenix PSCA race (9.66), and a “rustang”or “crustang” or “musty-thang” (or what ever I love to call it) that I helped him build and now I have to beat. The damn thing has an NX TITAN http://www.nitrousexpress.com/titan.htm on it and little bullet proof 300-400 hp (without the titan) small blocks, so I have my work cut out for me. (picture below is when it ran 10's a few years back. now hes going to turn up the titan another few notches and go for 8's. we drive this car on the streets here in wyoming it has plates and insurance! he drove it to bandemere speedway last year (260 miles round trip)