I been a little weary on spraying b/c I'm not sure whats causing the problem. When I punch it in 1st it goes like a raped ape. I shift to 2nd and slam it again ~ thats when I get nothing. Its liek I went from 1st to 6th. I'll let off for a second then put the hammer down again and it takes off once more. What gives? I'm lost?

 

Are you spraying when this happens?

 

No

 

hhmmm... A bog is generally the result of not enough fuel. If you stay in the throttle, does it clean up, or do you have to lift to get it to go again? The only thing I can think of is that the computer might freak out when you shift and cut the fuel until it doesn't see WOT and then it resets. You should also put a fuel press gauge on the rail and see what it looks like during the shift.

The other way it could go is super rich, which would pop and sutter more than it would bog.

Another thing I'm wondering is if you still have the ESC distributor, and knock sensor. If you're over advanced, putting a high load on it like during a shift will knock and the computer will pull out a lot of timing which will make it feel very low on power. It could be pulling timing out in 1st, but you won't feel it because of all the gear.

 

I'll try backing off the FP. It did it again today. I brought it up to ~3000rpm and punched it. She fell flat on her face. I let off almost completely and hit it again, no improvememt.

When I stoped at a light today it almost died on me and through the SES light, I rev'ed it hard once and the light went off.

I'm running 24# inj. do you think this could be causing to much fuel? Or do you think that my fuel pump might be taking a $hit, and that's the problem.
I really need to get a scan tool.

 

whats your tach do when it bogs??

 

i have the same problem, my tach bounces... Im guessing tranny.

 

Are you getting any knock retard on shift?
You may be pulling like 13 degrees out on the shift ,That would cause a big power loss but probably not a bog.

 

The tach is steady, I cut back on FP and it didn't help. I'm thinking it might be the TPS. I'll hit the gas real fast and it gets no power. I'll let up and do it again, the same thing happens. I ease the pedal down and it goes. This is only momentary though. It comes and goes. I think thats why its hard to fix. Please continue w/ the replies.:hail: :hail:

 

how hard is it to install a new throttle posistion sensor?

 

5 Minutes!

 

and how much do they cost?

 

I think there around ~45. I'll have to check. I need to get a voltmeter.

 

I'm throwing codes 24(VSS), 34 (EGR), 33(EST), 42(MAP). I'm all confused.

 

Oh $hit man! Your computer hates you. The MAP code and the EST codes are what's killing your performance. Time to hit the PROM burner.

 

I should have started that a year ago.

 

me thinks a bit more modification is required before prom burning is required. some people act like you need a custom prom to change air filters or plug wires

 

It's throwing MAP and EST which is Manifold Absolute Pressure and Electric spark timing, which means that the manifold pressure is out of range, for the injector duty cycle commanded, and the est code is retarding timing so it won't blow up. NEED NEW SOFTWARE.

 

if he had some other larger size engine than a 350, and/or if he had some other cam than the zz4 cam I would tend to agree with you. that also means that if his car was originally a 305 car (W/305 SD computer) then it could be definitely a problem. but if guys are running mini rams with 406's and comp cams (110 LSA) with the same stock chip (350 only) and computer that he is using then why couldnt his more computer friendly combo work? there are no esc codes that would occur with an improperly sized engine. it is more likely that the knock sensor has failed, is torqued too tight or if it was a 305 and a 350 knock sensor should be in its place. I noticed in one post you say it runs like a raped ape in first when you take off, in a later post you lowered the FP and the car began falling on its face. this would lead me to believe she may need more fuel. if the car has been driven some and it has not thrown a rich code then the blocklearn/integrator (internal fuel curve adjustment) is not maxed either way (it doesnt take much driving). you may need 30 #'s since you already said the transitional acceleration had good response at the old fuel pressure,this would indicate the amount and profile of the vacuum from the cam and combo is working fine with the computer. since he is running at WOT the manifold vacuum during the problem area is near zero on any engine (other than blown). the list of codes is consistent with the same info I am seeing when guys switch the 3.4ht into the s-10's where a TBI 2.8 used to be. the TBI is also speed density batch fire, the 3.4 is larger than the 2.8, the cam is wild with a bunch of lift 107' lobe sep and all that is needed to make it work is 4.3 V6 injectors. whammo throttle response, power, all are resolved. just an idea.

 

I'm still using the 305 knock sensor.
It was a 305 w/ SD and a 5-spd
now its a ZZ4 (no emissions) w/ mods in the sig.

It used to run great. 13.54 102-3mph. It always threw a code, but most of the time it was EGR.

At the motor its about 300hp. I thought that the 24# inj. were good till 450hp. The pressure change didn't help performance up or down. Do you think my MAP sensor could be bad or is it just the knock sensor? What's the TQ spec on one of those?

Thank you all for the replies.:hail:

 

does it bog on launch from a dead stop? if so, with the FP up or down? the map sensor definitely seems to have a problem we need to find out, it certainly could be the vacuum but it couldnt be the vacuum and still have good throttle response. what are the ZZ4 cam specs, guys seem to be having real good luck in your situation with the hott cam the real problem is that 305 computer. there was no 350 T-5 so that will be a propblem finding a chip in your case a custom chip may be the answer. I was wishfully hoping you could just put the 350 chip in but with no 350 stick chip, your option is limited to custom.

 

If it used to run great never bogged, and then it suddenly throws codes and runs like crap, I'd guess you broke something.

This is very confusing

Vehicle speed sensor error - hhhmmm don't know how this effects the engine.

EGR probably an old code.

Manifold Absolute Pressure, broken or out of range, or just unplugged. make sure the rubber line is still ok. It would be a good idea to replace this first, since it only like 50c.

Electronic Spark control- new idea here, maybe the esc solenoid in the dist broke? I'm really reaching here. If you can get your hands on another dist you might just try swapping it to see if it fixes it. I don't know of any way to check it.

 

.474 in .510 exh 208*in and 221* exh. W/ the 1.6RR it brings it to about .506 and .544.

No bog off the line. Probably b/c I never slam WOT in 1st I always roll into it. Its a waste of tires otherwise.

MAP is plugged in (elec. and vacuum).

Does the Coil have to be grounded? I don't have it bolted to anything. This hasn't proved a problem in the past, but I'm running out of options.

I'd really like to get a good bottle run in before the season ends.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

It would cut off at idle when I didn't have my speedo gear in. I put the speedo in and it ran good again.

ESC - I replaced the ign. module if that's what your talking about.

 

No more help?

 

you have to bring it back to the top of the boards ... or start a new one with a new title =/

 

Do you think I should put it in a shop? I can't stand doing that. I know they will have to dog it just to get the same bogging effect.

That's all I need, some mechanic to miss a gear in my new 6-spd.

Can the TPS take a **** w/o it throughing a code?
Why would the VSS affect the way the car runs?
How can I test the MAP sensor?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.