Anyone with nitrous or thinking of adding it - LOOK AT THIS
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From: Rowlett, TX
Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.45
Anyone with nitrous or thinking of adding it - LOOK AT THIS
If you already have nitrous or are thinking of adding it, i urge you too look at this. It shows what can happen if something goes wrong. Maybe this could be a sticky?
http://www.team3s.com/FAQnitrousX.htm
http://www.team3s.com/FAQnitrousX.htm
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
This is nothing against you but I think this is the most misenterpreted situation I ever get to see posted all the time. This is the "***** Coyote" side of nitrous things "not to do"? It even says "How NOT to use Nitrous Oxide!" This guys leaves is bottle heater on WHILE HE IS GONE? With the valve closed (contrary to the extensive warnings in the instructions) and wants to cry about the fact that the emergency blowoff safty disc and bottle which neither is even produced by ANY nitrous company failed. The guy that did the deed used to have his own site up bt it is a dead link now. On his site he berated NX for producing a failed product and tried to sue them or something. They are NOT even a multimillion dollar company. It is a small company with a few overworked partners and a couple of employees. should we also stop welding, drinking soda, paint ball shooting, using O2 at the hospital, scuba diving, or any other activity envolving pressurized gasses which are all protected by a burst disc? About once or twice a year a post for a link to this guy's, all I am saying is I feel sorry that something as unfortunate as this happened to this guy, I mean Im sorry he made the mistake of misuse/misinstallation and the results.
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Car: '86 TransAm WS6
Engine: 305 TPI
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I can't remember which site it was, but it was reported that the guy with the Maxima was running doubled-up burst discs, so that he could put 15lbs of Nitrous in a 10lb bottle. (Or something to that effect) He was over-pressurizing the bottle, and when the stock, single discs kept blowing, he just put two in. Leave the heater on, and presto: DETONATION!
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From: Rowlett, TX
Car: 1988 GTA
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt, 3.45
It does say at the top of the page that he was using 2 burst valves inline, which effectively doubles the pressure at which they will release. Also it says that the bottle heater was wired to constant power. 2 oopsies and boom...
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From: Ann Arbor,MI
Car: 1989 Trans Am GTA
Engine: LB9 TPI with L98 cam (Manual car)
Transmission: T5 5Speed/ 9bolt Borg-Warner 3.45 gears with posi
A true nimrod, but this still leaves a question in your head. This is what can happen if things go wrong (single disk failing, switch to heater fails and is stuck open) that is devastating.
Any power adders for me will be turbo's or blowers if I had to go that far which I doubt since theres power to be had N/A.
Follow the directions everyone
Any power adders for me will be turbo's or blowers if I had to go that far which I doubt since theres power to be had N/A.
Follow the directions everyone
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From: Tucson, AZ
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: Can you say stroke?!?!
Transmission: 700-r4
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This guy actually got lucky. There was a post awhile back about the same thing and it had a picture of a 5.0 Mustang. It blew the car in half, destroyed the garage door and even took out part of the wall in the garage. It was nasty as hell.
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by Kingtal0n
hey just imagine how your pistons feel when that stuff ignites...
hey just imagine how your pistons feel when that stuff ignites...
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
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now I know blown / turbo cars get high cylinder pressures... but I dont care how big a turbo you got you cant get 300+ PSI pressure at 1500 RPM by hitting a button with a turbo. a blower, if you mash the gas enough, yeah maybe, but it would have to be a 1071 overdriven to make 300+ psi at 1500 RPMS... there just aint no way you can get that kind of pressure without nitrous or a truckload of insta-boost.
But im just talking generically / low rpm / bad time for NOS issue...
<b> i read </b>the initial HIT too low in the RPM range where your engines really loaded up can produce obscene cylinder pressures, way more than any blown / turbo car apparently.
But im just talking generically / low rpm / bad time for NOS issue...
<b> i read </b>the initial HIT too low in the RPM range where your engines really loaded up can produce obscene cylinder pressures, way more than any blown / turbo car apparently.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
absolutely blowers/turdbos cant do it at low RPM but where did the 300 psi come from? most blown up nitrous cars I see blow on the big end just like "you know what" kind of cars.
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From: Fl
Car: 5.3L turbo 2800lbs RWD
Engine: Prefer 3L Iron & 5.3L Aluminum
Transmission: 4l80e
Axle/Gears: 3.512
B4C you were correct before and still are, im not correcting you or saying your wrong. any kind of forced induction, if its working properly, will jack up volumetric efficiency over 100% which means more cubic inches of displaced air than possible under normal atmospheric conditions.
nitrous is sort of like condensed boost then, because as soon as it ignites it creates obscene cylinder pressures. But thats not because of a forced volumetric efficiency, its simply because the whole point of forced induction / nitrous is to add more oxygen, safelly, to the combustion process giving you a bigger boom.
However, You still cant directly compare the two systems because they operate on totally different objectives. One wants to force normal air in, the other wants to just inject the necessary piece of that air without the rest of the crap. Ah im rambling again...
The point im trying to make, I guess, is while both systems produce obove average cylinder pressures, nitrous is just better at it. while boost comes in the engine has a chance to accept it from the intake manifold and on an increasing basis. when nitrous comes in the engine has no choice in the matter, it takes whatever is injected and works on that.
I was using 300 PSI as an example because 300 PSI is what you see after a 150 shot of nitrous on a 350 chevy at 1500 RPM with 9:1 compression almost exactly. 300 PSI is enough to blow a nice fel-pro head gasket. However, the same engine with a 671 Blower only makes 210~ psi at 12 PSI of boost and 1500 RPM -and the engine with the 671 and less cylinder pressure is making more horsepower than the one with nitrous... Remember, the intake stores leftover air and THATS your boost. with nitrous, its like having all 12 PSI Of that leftover air injected directly into a cylinder and exploding it, thus the extra 90 PSI of cylinder pressure.
Remember also cylinder pressures dont mean horsepower. I can have 250 PSI of cylinder pressure but if the incoming air is heated to 300*F Im just as well off with 160 PSI and 90*F inlet temps. thats what boost does, it gets hot. nitrous doesnt see this, and even if it did it wouldnt affect it. the fact the Oxygen is bonded to the nitrogen means it cant separate with heated inlet temps, no matter how hot it gets, you still get the same size boom.
and in conclusion I would like to say I read most of this from various places and if im wrong about anything, so be it, its my opinion and should be taken as such without any regards to my intelligence what-so-ever and if you don't beleive me go read it yourself etc etc etc.. oh and B4C has two awsome cars I would die to own but besides all that have a nice day.
nitrous is sort of like condensed boost then, because as soon as it ignites it creates obscene cylinder pressures. But thats not because of a forced volumetric efficiency, its simply because the whole point of forced induction / nitrous is to add more oxygen, safelly, to the combustion process giving you a bigger boom.
However, You still cant directly compare the two systems because they operate on totally different objectives. One wants to force normal air in, the other wants to just inject the necessary piece of that air without the rest of the crap. Ah im rambling again...
The point im trying to make, I guess, is while both systems produce obove average cylinder pressures, nitrous is just better at it. while boost comes in the engine has a chance to accept it from the intake manifold and on an increasing basis. when nitrous comes in the engine has no choice in the matter, it takes whatever is injected and works on that.
I was using 300 PSI as an example because 300 PSI is what you see after a 150 shot of nitrous on a 350 chevy at 1500 RPM with 9:1 compression almost exactly. 300 PSI is enough to blow a nice fel-pro head gasket. However, the same engine with a 671 Blower only makes 210~ psi at 12 PSI of boost and 1500 RPM -and the engine with the 671 and less cylinder pressure is making more horsepower than the one with nitrous... Remember, the intake stores leftover air and THATS your boost. with nitrous, its like having all 12 PSI Of that leftover air injected directly into a cylinder and exploding it, thus the extra 90 PSI of cylinder pressure.
Remember also cylinder pressures dont mean horsepower. I can have 250 PSI of cylinder pressure but if the incoming air is heated to 300*F Im just as well off with 160 PSI and 90*F inlet temps. thats what boost does, it gets hot. nitrous doesnt see this, and even if it did it wouldnt affect it. the fact the Oxygen is bonded to the nitrogen means it cant separate with heated inlet temps, no matter how hot it gets, you still get the same size boom.
and in conclusion I would like to say I read most of this from various places and if im wrong about anything, so be it, its my opinion and should be taken as such without any regards to my intelligence what-so-ever and if you don't beleive me go read it yourself etc etc etc.. oh and B4C has two awsome cars I would die to own but besides all that have a nice day.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
I'm not trying to argue either I am just saying that the cylinder pressure (measured in the 1000's of PSI not 300) is the same on blown and nitroused cars (except at very low RPM's as you correctly pointed out) but who activates the nitrous that low?
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Originally posted by B4Ctom1
the same exact way a blown or turbo car feels (identical cylinder pressures).
the same exact way a blown or turbo car feels (identical cylinder pressures).
the Cylinder pressures spike much higher initially with N2O, where it is at a higher level across the board then NA with boost. You may end up with similar cylinder pressures when averaging across the whole power stroke. This is also why different camshafts work best NA, with N2O, supercharged and turbocharged... with N2O the biggest concern is to get all of the exhaust out and open early to decrease pumping losses, with a blower you want to open the exhaust valve as late as possible to take advantage of the boader range of high cylinder pressure and a turbo adds back pressure to the exhaust which can be controlled by closing the exhaust valve sooner/opening the intake later.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
Originally posted by dennis6
What happens if you have the Nitrous bottle in the spare tire location and you get rear ended real good? I think I will stay away from the stuff.
What happens if you have the Nitrous bottle in the spare tire location and you get rear ended real good? I think I will stay away from the stuff.
What will happen? Most likely nothing except a ruptured bottle - but that is unlikely. Even if the bottle does rupture, it will be through the burst disc/blowdown tube (unless you have 3000psi like the guy on the website). Remember that Nitrous Oxide is a catalyst which means it enhances burning, but only with added fuel. If you rupture the bottle and ignite a spark, nothing will happen without fuel (even then it's limited to the amount of fuel added). Nitrous is safe, and disasters like those mentioned are old wives tales under normal circumstances.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
what if?...what if?.... what if a frog had wings? would it bump its *** when it hops?.... My favorite saying, "I say go for it its only metal..."
SPEEDCAT is quite right: those are old pics i have seen before that someone decide to use in some anti N2O crap. if i remember correctly it was the idiots fault since he didnt install the system correctly. it hadnt been installed long and had a bottle heater that stayed on 24/7 and the pressure release wasnt working, 2 burst valves (at the time i orginally saw this his friend didnt know that). one of these kits that goes from car to car to car without any TLC to be sure it works right.
notice that everything i just said they didnt mention! i originally saw these pics a couple yrs ago and someone that knew him gave the details. professional install my ***.
notice that everything i just said they didnt mention! i originally saw these pics a couple yrs ago and someone that knew him gave the details. professional install my ***.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 1
From: Cheyenne, Wyoming
Car: 1992 B4C 1LE
Engine: Proaction 412, Accel singleplane
Transmission: built 700R4 w/custom converter
Axle/Gears: stock w/later 4th gen torsen pos
encumbered by idiots yet we pressed on..., definitely thin the herd, death or serious bodily harm by way of stupidity.
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