Anyone know how tolerant brake boosters are of heat? I'm wondering because the more I look them more I come to the conclusion that I'm going to have to run a header tube right next to it.

Secondly, has anyone ever tried moving the 2 big bundles of wiring going over and around the engine side of the power brake booster on a 3rd gen? I haven't really taken a look at where they go but getting there almost any way besides between the engine and over the top seems like it would work better (say underneath the booster or strapped to the cowl).

 

I was looking at that the other day. I was working on my friends old Chevy truck and noticed the master cylinder had the lines on the other side, away from the exhaust. So I was wondering if I could get that kind of master cylinder. And of course I'd have to redo the lines cause they have those POS bubble flares or find some adapter fittings. I haven't looked at the wire nightmare yet. I've cut most of them out except the ones on the drivers side when I pulled the V6. It's gonna be a lot of work. I got till Febuary till the track reopens. That should be plenty of time. If I'm not mistaken, those wires run all your lights and dist/tach wires, fuel pump and some other crap I'm sure. Re-routing them would be rough to say the least. I'll be using lots of heat shielding for sure.

Brad...

 

Hum, I'd like to have this thing runninging some form before the track closes this year. Well, it's running now, how about running in a different form?

It looks like one of the bundles could be strapped up and out of the way, the other looks like it is long enough to run under he booster and even maybe under the steering. Unfortunalty, it doesn't appear to have any good way to disconnect and it almost looks like it might be easier to pull the booster, move the wires down and then remount the booster.

That would suck.

 

how about this? (picture modified to reflect proper caption, sorry Tory)

 

any more details?

I really don't mind the idea of having to push harder to get the brakes to work, as long as they work well. I've been looking for a manual brake conversion. It would have to be 'right' though, since the car is street driven autox'ed and may see some road course duty

 

There is some confusion between my car and Don's car While they are very similar at a glance, we have different setups which should keep things interesting when we finally get these things on the road

The picture in the post is of BLOWNBIRD's (Don) car. We both have the same Ed Quay manual brake conversion which I think is a great investment. I havent had a lot of seat time with this setup since I am just finishing up some odds and ends on the car. I have only pulled it on and off my trailer a few times and they seem to work fine.

 

sorry about that and I couldnt remember the name of the manufacturer P.S. I still have not installed my Ed Quay wing.

 

HOLY $HIT!!!! Where does that manual brake booster come from? how much does it cost? and does it work as good as a regular one? thanks alot

 

read the posts above dude it sez Ed Quay! manual brakes trade effort for weight and simplicity (more pedal required), I dont know how much it costs but Ed Quay makes not cheap, real good stuff ( as far as I ave seen so far) but I havent bought one of these yet.

 

Instead of the manual brake conversion, get a hydrobooster, it'll give you a harder pedal and lots of extra room.

If you want to run the stock booster and if it's the same as a corvette c3 one (the big metal one) I have a heat shield blanket that is custom made for it. Drop me an email if interested

Marck